Memphis Mojo 16-MCD 4KW

How are ya'll heating up the boards on larger amps for soldering? I'm currently hanging my rework gun (896°f) over the area I'm attempting to work on. Simultaneously I'm using my solder iron (896°f) and have tried multiple tips but it just isn't working. I feel like I'm going to burn the board.
 

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I'm attempting to remove the outputs. I've been using the blue solder station. I also have my old hakko, it's rated at 65w but the iron is rated at 50w.
 

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I would think that that Hakko would easily be good enough for what you're doing if you use a heavy enough tip.

Try laying the tip down on the pads. This uses a part of the tip that's larger and if you can contact more than the pad (the larger tinned area connected to the pad) you will get more heat to the board.

Add new solder to the points you need to heat.

Heat from the side with the most copper. Don't try to heat a large copper plane on the opposite side of the board through a small via.

Be sure to have all vias filled when you desolder.

Perform a ctrl-f search on the TT1 page for:
This next bit is for stubborn
 
That's different. The Sal Ammoniac is a chemical reaction that can salvage most tips. You have to use it with good ventilation but you rarely need to use it if the tips are treated well.

Another thing that can help salvage tips is to let them idle at about 5-600°, trying to tin them regularly.

If that tip isn't salvageable, the one to its left looks good, as well.
 
That looks like it but I always bought it in tins that specifically labeled it as tip cleaner. You may be able to find it locally at hardware stores or places that sell supplies for plumbing or sheet metal work (galvanized sheet metal pans are soldered to make them waterproof).

ctrl-f:
ammoniac
on the equipment page for suggestions using it, if you buy it.
 
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The WES51 that I use can desolder all of the example boards in the tutorial can be easily done with a thin ETA tip. The Hakko should be as good as the WES51.

Example of tips are just above (ctrl-f):
ETA for the Weller WES51

on the equipment page.

New tips are easily tinned. It's older, abused tips that need more aggressive cleaning. Melting plastic with a tip generally ruins it unless something like the chemical cleaner is used.
 
Okay. You approved the Hakko 936 a long time ago so I'll try to do a better job at tinning the tip and see what happens. I don't know if it makes a difference but the Hakko 900 heating element doesn't go in the tip as far as the Yihua 917D. This reminds me of fishing with my friend. I'll show up with 5 polls and 3 tackle boxes, he comes with 1 poll and a 5 gallon bucket and catches all the fish.
 

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