Hello all.
I’m in the process of building the Water Buffalo enclosure for the Markaudio 11MS gen. 2.
I’ve reviewed the plans available on this site as well as those on Markaudio’s site (Identical). I have some questions regarding the plans which apparently call for doubling up the ply for a total thickness of 1-1/2 in. Is this really necessary? -seems like overkill to me as I plan on using 3/4 in. Ply with MDF core instead of traditional veneer ply core. Additionally the plan shows double thickness ply on the left side of the enclosure but not the right as seen from the front. I assume this is an oversight on the part of the person who did the CAD, or they expect us to deduce that the material is doubled on all interior surfaces (Or is this some kind of acoustic wizardry to leave one side of the enclosure at 3/4 in.?) I hate to appear daft but If I’m going to purchase $600 in ply, drivers and other materials to make this, I want to do it right. Full disclosure.. I’m trained in fine carpentry, not acoustic engineering so when I’m finished with these they’ll be of the quality that one could expect to find from a high end seller but I’ll have less control over determining the sound quality unless I get specifics in design.
Thanks in advance,
Craig
I’m in the process of building the Water Buffalo enclosure for the Markaudio 11MS gen. 2.
I’ve reviewed the plans available on this site as well as those on Markaudio’s site (Identical). I have some questions regarding the plans which apparently call for doubling up the ply for a total thickness of 1-1/2 in. Is this really necessary? -seems like overkill to me as I plan on using 3/4 in. Ply with MDF core instead of traditional veneer ply core. Additionally the plan shows double thickness ply on the left side of the enclosure but not the right as seen from the front. I assume this is an oversight on the part of the person who did the CAD, or they expect us to deduce that the material is doubled on all interior surfaces (Or is this some kind of acoustic wizardry to leave one side of the enclosure at 3/4 in.?) I hate to appear daft but If I’m going to purchase $600 in ply, drivers and other materials to make this, I want to do it right. Full disclosure.. I’m trained in fine carpentry, not acoustic engineering so when I’m finished with these they’ll be of the quality that one could expect to find from a high end seller but I’ll have less control over determining the sound quality unless I get specifics in design.
Thanks in advance,
Craig
It is felt only on one side, not ply. Double thickness only on baffle and top. If you use MDF core ply than go with a plan an use vertical brace if you want to do it right
I designed Water Buffalo with a doubled front and top baffle for enhanced stability / rigidity. The increased mass also provides a more stable platform for the initial expanding wave (think of it as an expanding sphere emitting from the drive unit). The box is lagged on all internal faces with damping, although it is optional on one side baffle depending on builder preference and to a point material. If you use BAF, you may wish to lag that side baffle. Something like OC-703, Ultratouch or similar & you should be fine without.
Hope that helps!
Hope that helps!
Hey guys
Sorry, I was hospitalized right after you both responded and have been feeling too cruddy to get back to this topic until now.
First: thanks for your input!
Second : I have an additional question about bracing.. I had an idea that 3 vertical braces should be installed (appx 40x40cm posts top to bottom, per language in the plans from mark audio. I’ve seen lots of photos and illustrations about “window bracing” and there doesn’t seem to be a consensus there. Can I use 40x40cm (diameter) top to bottom in 2 or 3 places? Anything that can help me visualize this would be much appreciated
Sorry, I was hospitalized right after you both responded and have been feeling too cruddy to get back to this topic until now.
First: thanks for your input!
Second : I have an additional question about bracing.. I had an idea that 3 vertical braces should be installed (appx 40x40cm posts top to bottom, per language in the plans from mark audio. I’ve seen lots of photos and illustrations about “window bracing” and there doesn’t seem to be a consensus there. Can I use 40x40cm (diameter) top to bottom in 2 or 3 places? Anything that can help me visualize this would be much appreciated
More importantly, I hope you're on the road to recovery.
I don't really like window braces, but you have to be pragmatic about these sort of things -they're easier for many builders than longitudinal braces, and better than nothing at all, so when I did this creature series I used a doubled front & top baffle, which significantly improves the overall structural stability, and three unevenly spaced, relatively 'open' (to avoid disrupting the longitudinal standing wave) 178mm x 160mm x 18mm window-braces do the job 'well enough'. There's no fixed pattern, but avoid small holes & you need more or less 65% or > free space, so something like either of the attached would do. One other thing you can do is key the rear baffle into the doubled upper, rather than simply fixing it to the back.
I don't really like window braces, but you have to be pragmatic about these sort of things -they're easier for many builders than longitudinal braces, and better than nothing at all, so when I did this creature series I used a doubled front & top baffle, which significantly improves the overall structural stability, and three unevenly spaced, relatively 'open' (to avoid disrupting the longitudinal standing wave) 178mm x 160mm x 18mm window-braces do the job 'well enough'. There's no fixed pattern, but avoid small holes & you need more or less 65% or > free space, so something like either of the attached would do. One other thing you can do is key the rear baffle into the doubled upper, rather than simply fixing it to the back.
