Re: Re: Re: Re: CD63 KI psu caps
urr, not to start an OT discussion, but
Low level details become noticeable as reproduction resolution rises.
HF-noise kinda smears audio.
Dynamics are affected when an amp is not working lineair (most are not).
avr300 said:
urr, not to start an OT discussion, but Low level details become noticeable as reproduction resolution rises.
HF-noise kinda smears audio.
Dynamics are affected when an amp is not working lineair (most are not).
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: CD63 KI psu caps
Hi Simon,
You got something to look out for. Like in the old days 😉
About caps, they all wreck audio. Some more than others. Bypassing gives most improvement with the worst.
Regards, Jaap
SimontY said:Hello, no it didn't get duller I don't think. But why not try Rubycon ZA/ZL? They're said to give a brighter sound. I did use OTT big ones btw, 3300uF.
I'm really keen to get my cd63 home 😀
Hi Simon,
You got something to look out for. Like in the old days 😉
About caps, they all wreck audio. Some more than others. Bypassing gives most improvement with the worst.
Regards, Jaap
avr300 said:
whether it is an upgrade or not.
The standard electro's do dry out over time.
allan
awpagan said:
Hi Allan,
Replacing electrolytic caps is perhaps the most common repair these days as cheap caps live a short life, depending on AC load. The gold band Elnas have both better properties and useful life than the cheap stuf. Life is also prolonged when working voltage is no more than 80% of rated max voltage.
As a test I replaced the 5V reservoir cap (C815 = 3300uF/6.3V) with only 1000uF/25V BG NX, without bypass. Sonics improved considerable after 50 - 100 hours. Can recommend to everyone who works on a low budget.
Regards, Jaap
disco said:
Hi Jaap
I've always tried for 75%
C815,
How much of the digital circuit is this cap now supplying?
with the clock, servo, dac, etc supplied off separate reg's
what's left? microprocessor!
allan
awpagan said:
Allan,
I have a second player, not equipped with extra PSUs.
It's my goal to mod her on a low budget and compare to the first.
Already (after bypassing critical points with SMDs and 'standard' mods) the advance of the large budget player is getting smaller.
Jaap
Hi Guys..
About to buy a defective CD53. It loads the CD but doesn't spin the disc, hence writing "disc". Any good firsthand suggestion.
The owner says it stopped suddenly.
It's only €20 but I just want to make sure, that it's not all firebombed.
About to buy a defective CD53. It loads the CD but doesn't spin the disc, hence writing "disc". Any good firsthand suggestion.
The owner says it stopped suddenly.
It's only €20 but I just want to make sure, that it's not all firebombed.
There's no such thing as a standard mod. When things are modded they're not standard any longer. 😉
ooops, have a nice Sunday.😀
ooops, have a nice Sunday.😀
disco said:
interesting idea.
remove anything that is not necessary.
only use rca out, remove everything else, cool😎
It should remove a lot of extra noise from unnecessary circuits.
and it should help the standard top ground plane also.
allan
ps compared to modded cd
makes you think.
Bye for now !
Hi Guys.
I have to go to work so it's Bye for now.
[5 weeks in the Azores ! ]
Thanks .. I have really enjoyed this thread .
Heres to 3000 and 4000 posts !
Cheers
Andy
Hi Guys.
I have to go to work so it's Bye for now.
[5 weeks in the Azores ! ]
Thanks .. I have really enjoyed this thread .
Heres to 3000 and 4000 posts !
Cheers
Andy
awpagan said:
awpagan said:
Hi Allan,
Yep, mica's are a spoil here as they give no noticeable progress.
Did exchange the magnetic 1M for a non magnetic Vishay and this did no good either. But one has to try... 🙂
Looking at the Remote Control at the moment (page 18).
RC-5 input (pin 15) and RC-5 output (pin 18) of MN187164 IC seem to connect through a diode. Do you think it's possible to bypass QF51 etc by connecting pins 15 and 18?
Regards, Jaap
disco said:
Yes, that's possible. I did it in both players, works fine. For CD57/67:
Disable IR remote switch and RC-5 IN/OUT bus:
- Remove CF52, DF51/52, QF51/52, QF61, RF51...56, RF61 and U133.
- Jumper collector and emitter of QF61.
- Insert wire jumper from far side of U133 (near RF03) to nearest side of RF53 that connects it to QF61.
Regards,
Ray.
6h5c said:
ah the masters back with words of wisdom
Hi ray
have you been busy following all the TDA threads
allan
awpagan said:
Hi Allan!
Thanks for your kind words
.Yes, I have been busy reading TDA threads actually 😀. And working....
I'm going to receive some parts this week, and hope to set the first steps in modding a CD65
in a positive way (no smoke).
Regards,
Ray.
Thanks for the reply Disco and guys, i am waiting for my audiocom invisus, super reg2's and clock to arrive. I reckon my best approach is to fit these and run them in for at least 100 hours or so.
I am a believer in the power of persuation, so the intention will be to run my audio test and demag cd for a long time while i aint listening, and as u say Disco run tracks you know the most listening for the detail. However, i will fit the Wima MKP's to the existing caps when i fit my mods.
I second the cap ageing thoughts, it is common that as the capacitor ages the electroysis also changes rate, the chemicals age, leaks develop nad hence capacitance changes. However, the 63KI uses Elna i think, so ill change these last i think.
I will repost when i get curious to the best coax to use.
Just rebuilding a better seperate crossover for my speakers and supertweeters
I am a believer in the power of persuation, so the intention will be to run my audio test and demag cd for a long time while i aint listening, and as u say Disco run tracks you know the most listening for the detail. However, i will fit the Wima MKP's to the existing caps when i fit my mods.
I second the cap ageing thoughts, it is common that as the capacitor ages the electroysis also changes rate, the chemicals age, leaks develop nad hence capacitance changes. However, the 63KI uses Elna i think, so ill change these last i think.
I will repost when i get curious to the best coax to use.
Just rebuilding a better seperate crossover for my speakers and supertweeters