Wise people of the forum, greeting from the bottom of the planet.
I'm looking for recommendations on the best shielded signal cable to use in a tube preamp and tube amp that I'm building, together with a supplier I can source from. Cable for anywhere in the US or Europe is OK. Here, in NZ, there isn't a lot to choose from, and what there is to choose from is little better than a wet piece of string.
Ideally, the cable that is sonically and electrically ahead of the pack is what I'm looking for and also something easy to work with and that holds its shape once put into position.
Looking forward to hearing from those more experienced than myself.
Thanks!
I'm looking for recommendations on the best shielded signal cable to use in a tube preamp and tube amp that I'm building, together with a supplier I can source from. Cable for anywhere in the US or Europe is OK. Here, in NZ, there isn't a lot to choose from, and what there is to choose from is little better than a wet piece of string.
Ideally, the cable that is sonically and electrically ahead of the pack is what I'm looking for and also something easy to work with and that holds its shape once put into position.
Looking forward to hearing from those more experienced than myself.
Thanks!
I like the VanDamme (Reference: 268-001-000)
https://store.cliff.com.au/microphone-cables/203-vandamme-pro-grade-install-cable.html
It's flexable, not stiff, I don't know of any shielded cable that will hold It's shape if you mean like how solid core wire does.
https://store.cliff.com.au/microphone-cables/203-vandamme-pro-grade-install-cable.html
It's flexable, not stiff, I don't know of any shielded cable that will hold It's shape if you mean like how solid core wire does.
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Mogami, Belden, Canare, Gotham,... mic cable.
There is nothing like 'sonically or technically ahead', just cable with inductive/capacitive/resistive data given and you could verify ( given brans will give you this info).
If you look for stiffer of the lot look for 'starquad' ( Canare is the stiffest).
Being pro product they are easy to work with. I prefer Mogami for multipairs as they are clearly labeled but for mic cable all are more than ok regarding handling.
If concerned about 'quality' keep in mind this is what is used to wire studio control rooms ( patchbay and lines) and the analog desk in them ( Ams/Neve, SSL, Amek, Focusrite,...).
There is nothing like 'sonically or technically ahead', just cable with inductive/capacitive/resistive data given and you could verify ( given brans will give you this info).
If you look for stiffer of the lot look for 'starquad' ( Canare is the stiffest).
Being pro product they are easy to work with. I prefer Mogami for multipairs as they are clearly labeled but for mic cable all are more than ok regarding handling.
If concerned about 'quality' keep in mind this is what is used to wire studio control rooms ( patchbay and lines) and the analog desk in them ( Ams/Neve, SSL, Amek, Focusrite,...).
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Since there's little to choose from, just get what the professionals in your area get, that's possibly the best thing in town ...
The main differences are:
a] availability in your area.
b] price.
c] ease in working with, when attaching connectors.
a] availability in your area.
b] price.
c] ease in working with, when attaching connectors.
For a cable inside a chassis I‘d recommend something with a not too big diameter, as it can be quite hassle to route a thick wire around all those parts.
I was very happy with Mogami but don’t recall which one exactly. You would maybe want to use the shield as such and not route a signal gnd through it, so a shielded 2-core cable…
If space (and budget) isn’t an issue, go for mogami neglex (or 2784) or gotham gac-1 or gac-2 (these are big though)
I was very happy with Mogami but don’t recall which one exactly. You would maybe want to use the shield as such and not route a signal gnd through it, so a shielded 2-core cable…
If space (and budget) isn’t an issue, go for mogami neglex (or 2784) or gotham gac-1 or gac-2 (these are big though)
These guys ship anywhere and have a good range. These are all pro cables, no audiophile specials. https://www.canford.co.uk/Cables
I’ve a few different cables from them, but haven’t had the time to try them all yet. I like their speaker cables as they are robust, but flexible. I buy from their end of reel collection as they are quite a bit cheaper.
I’ve a few different cables from them, but haven’t had the time to try them all yet. I like their speaker cables as they are robust, but flexible. I buy from their end of reel collection as they are quite a bit cheaper.
Canford split off from the BBC, they are broadcast engineering suppliers- they even do a 19" rack wine-rack, 19" rack-mounting fridge etc for outside-broadcast vehicles! Somewhere on the site is a guide to the various kinds of Gaffer tape available...
Hi, try 0,5mm silver (solid core) and 1,0mm teflon tube (sleeving). I use that in all my gears, Hiraga 30W, DDDac 1543, Nelson Pass B1.
No shielded wires and no problem with noise. Maybe things are difference in tube gear, try it and listen.
Frank
No shielded wires and no problem with noise. Maybe things are difference in tube gear, try it and listen.
Frank
I don't use shielded cable inside the chassis for any of my projects...guess why...there's no need if you layout your build properly...and whatever shielding is necessary for external RFI/EMI fields should be handled by the chassis. I always use twisted pairs inside my projects, and have never had a problem doing it that way. Also, as noted already, shielded cable can take up significantly more area inside a chassis than one expects at first, and routing cable instead of twisted pairs is usually more difficult due to flexibility problems and bending around corners and parts and such.
Mike
Mike
You can get very cheap silver wire from goldsmith supply. The price is close to the price of the material, while HIFI supplyer mark it up by a few thousand percent. You can make a whole lot of wire from an ounce of fine silver which is less than 30 US$.
You can even make speaker wires from multiple strands of thin silver for a few hundred dollar, while high end crooks charge you a few thousend for some snake oiled copper wire.
You can even make speaker wires from multiple strands of thin silver for a few hundred dollar, while high end crooks charge you a few thousend for some snake oiled copper wire.
You should wear cotton gloves while working with silver wire. There are impregnated tissues that remove the black stain and conserve it for quite a while. As you will put it inside a silicone sleve anyway, if you give it a very thin, invisible coating with silicone fat, this should prevent discoloring. Perfect for keeping pure silver clean is a galvanic coat from Paladium, but that is a bit complicated for DIYS people.
By the way, it is not oxidation, the black stuff is sulfur.
Probably will be worse than standard copper wire, jewelry requirements for wire are different from electrical - jewelry alloys will be strong and hard wearing, not necessarily low-resistance annealed pure silver! Silver only has a tiny advantage over copper for conductivity anyway, 5% or so, so its almost always more economic and performant to use 10% thicker copper than switch to silver.