Looking for build tips to facilitate swapping of Pass amp circuits

I'm in the process of building the Aleph J (my first big build), but excited about the prospect of being able to try out other First Watt amps that use the same power supply (F4, in particular). For those of you that have experience using one chassis and PSU with various First Watt amp boards, I'm curious to know if you have any build tips that would facilitate the swapping out of boards, i.e., solutions that would minimize having to desolder and re-solder connections and that kind of thing.
 

codyt

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2019-08-26 7:05 pm
IN, USA
I’ve just finished up a bit of this kind of optimization for my chassis. I think the biggest thing would be to use quick connect tabs or wire terminals (I’ve had better luck with former) for the PSU connections. I’d also utilize quick connects for your binding posts if they have that option. For me, it’s been easier to solder dedicated power, source and speaker wires to each board. Then when it’s time to swap, it’s just a matter of disconnecting a few connections, unscrewing boards, and swapping in the new pair.
 

codyt

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2019-08-26 7:05 pm
IN, USA
Here’s one of my F6 boards, ready for quick swap.
 

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twitchie

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2004-07-12 5:08 am
Toronto

Ben Mah

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2012-05-18 6:36 pm
Vancouver
Another option is to put splice connectors in the wires instead of at the board. I have done that using radio control model battery connectors. They are designed to handle high current, are polarized and also come in male/female couplers to minimize mistakes in connections.
 

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Ben Mah

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2012-05-18 6:36 pm
Vancouver
Hi Dennis,

I flew rc planes and helicopters for a while until the feds enacted very restrictive rules to stop the dangerous antics of some reckless "drone" operators.

Another connector is the bullet wire connector. That can be used for the ground connection in conjunction with a rc battery connector in a bipolar power supply. The smaller gauge connectors can also be used for low level signal wires.

Ben
 

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2 picoDumbs

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2013-09-06 9:35 am
Another option is to put splice connectors in the wires instead of at the board. I have done that using radio control model battery connectors. They are designed to handle high current, are polarized and also come in male/female couplers to minimize mistakes in connections.

This is my approach also.
I much prefer the quality of Deans plugs over spades.
 

codyt

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2019-08-26 7:05 pm
IN, USA
These make life easier than reapplying goop and take the worry out of holes in Keratherm or Mica etc.

4180G Aavid | Mouser

This is a great point - I’ve noticed that my Keratherm doesn’t always remove as easily, tears, or leaves some residue. They usually come off in one piece, but it worries me to reuse them. I’ve been using a cheaper alternative (BER177-ND), but like this idea a lot.