Hello,
I am having a set of Sachiko cabinets shipped to me from a great guy in California. I have always enjoyed BLH speakers, and this was a deal I couldn't pass up.
I am in the process of acquiring the needed parts to get the speakers working. The Fostex FE206E are sitting in my closet. I need to order some wiring, and I understand that getting the binding posts mounted is not a straightforward task.
I do not have the speakers here, but want to be ready to go when they do arrive. I have looked at the Sachiko plans, but do not see where wiring is intended to go. Is it supposed to go into the back of the fold that is 1/3 of the way up from the bottom? Then drill a hole in the bottom of the compression chamber to feed the wire through?
I also understand a binding post plate such as the ones Parts Express offers is a recommended way to get things mounted up neatly.
Any thoughts/opinions/ recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Regards
Mister Pig
I am having a set of Sachiko cabinets shipped to me from a great guy in California. I have always enjoyed BLH speakers, and this was a deal I couldn't pass up.
I am in the process of acquiring the needed parts to get the speakers working. The Fostex FE206E are sitting in my closet. I need to order some wiring, and I understand that getting the binding posts mounted is not a straightforward task.
I do not have the speakers here, but want to be ready to go when they do arrive. I have looked at the Sachiko plans, but do not see where wiring is intended to go. Is it supposed to go into the back of the fold that is 1/3 of the way up from the bottom? Then drill a hole in the bottom of the compression chamber to feed the wire through?
I also understand a binding post plate such as the ones Parts Express offers is a recommended way to get things mounted up neatly.
Any thoughts/opinions/ recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Regards
Mister Pig
Yup, this is definitely one of those tight enclosures for working room, and of course there could be a lot of bandwidth and emotional energy invested in the debate about where it's best to have the shortest length of wire ( i.e. inside or outside the box), and the "best" type of wire - and let's not get started on binding posts, etc.
I probably build 2 or 3 dozen speaker projects a year, and for simplicity of installation and cost, I use a small, cheap round plastic input cup with 5-way binding posts. All it takes is a simple hole saw ( IIRC, approx 2")
In the case of the Sachiko, I'd be inclined to mount these below the location of the triangular deflector on rear panel. That would place the center for the hole-saw pilot approx 32-33" from the bottom plate.
I probably build 2 or 3 dozen speaker projects a year, and for simplicity of installation and cost, I use a small, cheap round plastic input cup with 5-way binding posts. All it takes is a simple hole saw ( IIRC, approx 2")
In the case of the Sachiko, I'd be inclined to mount these below the location of the triangular deflector on rear panel. That would place the center for the hole-saw pilot approx 32-33" from the bottom plate.
Member
Joined 2002
I think chris is talking about something like this.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Pretty much - just smaller diameter than shown . As I tend to swap enclosures and system locations a lot, I'm happy enough with the sonics of light gauge wire and convenience of Pomona style dual banana plugs, and don't need room access the nuts on these terminals. They're dirt cheap, easy to install, and have the advantage of very low mass of conducting material.
These are the ones we use.
Small diameter means less loss of panel rigidity (at the expensive of a tight fit for fingers). "Cheap" plastic terminals are actually better than the zoomier ones that can be had. They can always be replaced with nicer (low mass) posts at any time.
dave
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Small diameter means less loss of panel rigidity (at the expensive of a tight fit for fingers). "Cheap" plastic terminals are actually better than the zoomier ones that can be had. They can always be replaced with nicer (low mass) posts at any time.
dave
OK Heres My Plan Will This Work?
Referencing this drawing
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/Sachiko-map-1v01-220309.pdf
The chamber behind the driver looks to be 2.5 inches tall. The slot directly underneath the angled deflector looks to be 1.75 inches tall. If I cut a small opening, say 1.5 by 3 inches I should be able to miss the deflector and use a Cardas or Parts Express speaker binding post mounting plate.
Whatcha all think?
Regards
Mister Pig
Referencing this drawing
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/Sachiko-map-1v01-220309.pdf
The chamber behind the driver looks to be 2.5 inches tall. The slot directly underneath the angled deflector looks to be 1.75 inches tall. If I cut a small opening, say 1.5 by 3 inches I should be able to miss the deflector and use a Cardas or Parts Express speaker binding post mounting plate.
Whatcha all think?
Regards
Mister Pig
Has anyone here tried the Dayton binding posts at Parts Express? You just drill a 1/4" hole, and hammer the thing in. It seems pretty idiot-proof. It doesn't require much room to install, either.
Member
Joined 2002
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That's a'lot of metal for a small accomplishment, I think the idea here is less mass less metal and less forgin material.!
This is perhaps sacrilege, but the only Cardas binding posts I've personally used were the special patented ones, and I found them a total pain in the rear panel to install and use.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
They do make a rectangular metal plate to simplify installation, as the Parts Express plates are nice as well, but the cheap round input cups and hole saw if you don't already own one can be purchased for less than the high zoot parts, and installation is a pretty quick.
If I was going to get any fancier than the cheap terminal cups, I'd probably go for the Eichmans
or WBT Next-Gens.
Last edited:
Maybe OK for a car subwoofer with extra thick wall and testosterone involved, but how do you attach the wire to the ring terminal, and tighten the internal mounting nuts? Take a look at the room to reach the area in question on the Sachiko.
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/Sachiko-map-1v01-220309.pdf
this is one of the reasons I use cups in the first place - it takes longer to solder the 4 connections on the terminals and speaker than to drill the hole with a sharp saw - but then I'm just lazy that way
Last edited:
Ah, now I understand. So, whoever built the cabinets glued them shut without first installing any binding posts or wiring? Shame on him...
"2-3 dozen pairs a year", Chris-- those will put any anticipated retirement plans on-hold!This is perhaps sacrilege, but the only Cardas binding posts I've personally used were the special patented ones, and I found them a total pain in the rear panel to install and use.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
They do make a rectangular metal plate to simplify installation, as the Parts Express plates are nice as well, but the cheap round input cups and hole saw if you don't already own one can be purchased for less than the high zoot parts, and installation is a pretty quick.
If I was going to get any fancier than the cheap terminal cups, I'd probably go for the Eichmans
or WBT Next-Gens.
Don
I'm not sure I understand the logic behind low mass binding posts. Are thick posts too hard to solder with a low-watt iron? Someone, please enlighten me...
Low mass connectors (ie thinner metal) tend to sound better. Thatis why the best RCAs you can buy at radio shack are the plastic sleeved 8 for $5 (and in 4 different colours)
dave
dave
or you could drill a hole in the back of the cabinet and thread your fav speaker wire, solder to speaker terminals and listen while you consider the many connector options available🙂
Here's what I have been using:
Parts-Express.com: Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Terminal | SPEAKER TERMINALS speaker terminal speaker plate speaker gasket plates plate gauge gasket binding banana
I just drill two 0.5" holes for the wires to go through and attach the plate. Minimal disruption to the wood panel, minimal effort, low cost.
Cheers, Jim
Parts-Express.com: Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Terminal | SPEAKER TERMINALS speaker terminal speaker plate speaker gasket plates plate gauge gasket binding banana
I just drill two 0.5" holes for the wires to go through and attach the plate. Minimal disruption to the wood panel, minimal effort, low cost.
Cheers, Jim
If you can live with the binding posts sticking out, those look good -- same 5-way posts as on the ones we use.
dave
dave
These appear to be exactly the posts found on current Hornshoppe Horns, and they're great. I guess it's really a matter of aesthetics as to whether you'll like to see them flush or proud.
Ordered Parts Yesterday
Ordered the Parts Express plates, but only silver were in stock. Then grabbed a set of Cardas binding posts made from billeted copper. Also bought 4 feet of Cardas SE 15 wire to use as the internal wire. Drivers are Fostex FE206E.
Guess we will see how this all turns out.
Regards
Mister Pig
Ordered the Parts Express plates, but only silver were in stock. Then grabbed a set of Cardas binding posts made from billeted copper. Also bought 4 feet of Cardas SE 15 wire to use as the internal wire. Drivers are Fostex FE206E.
Guess we will see how this all turns out.
Regards
Mister Pig
- Status
- Not open for further replies.