Hi to all.
First question:
I have four pieces of 10" Jamo X3M10, new.
Here is all data that I have on them:
Impedance: 4 ohms
Vas: 173,9 l
Fs: 33,7 Hz
Qms: 7,53
Qes: 0,37
Qts: 0,35
Weight: 2,60 kg
Diameter: 260 mm
Hole diameter: 230mm
Here is the picture of the unit:
Anybody have any additional data or info on this units?
As I am a complete noob to box calculators, and I have some design must guidelines that I cannot input into any of the programs I found, please help.
This is an idea in general:
I would use all four units, each one in its own cabinet, mostly for movie theater purposes.
Cabinets should be shallow (about 10") and about 12" width, but they can be up to 30" in height. Shape of the cabinet should be triangle or the trapezoid, driver front firing. This cabinets would be placed in wall corners, one on the floor, one by the ceiling. In the space between there will be 2 way speakers. So the idea is to have a stereo setup, with visually only two speaker cabinets in corner of the room, built from floor to ceiling. I would run the woofers with a dedicated Nuvo P2100 amp, and two woofers would be connected in series. So I would have only two woofer setups connected to amp, but the units in one setup would be in separate cabinets. I hope that this is clear enough.
My question is, what design should I pick for this drivers? Sealed or vented? Any ideas on the size of the cabinets? How to calculate this? I do not need them to be loud, I just want them to give me that deep punch at moderate loudness.
Many, many thanks.
First question:
I have four pieces of 10" Jamo X3M10, new.
Here is all data that I have on them:
Impedance: 4 ohms
Vas: 173,9 l
Fs: 33,7 Hz
Qms: 7,53
Qes: 0,37
Qts: 0,35
Weight: 2,60 kg
Diameter: 260 mm
Hole diameter: 230mm
Here is the picture of the unit:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Anybody have any additional data or info on this units?
As I am a complete noob to box calculators, and I have some design must guidelines that I cannot input into any of the programs I found, please help.
This is an idea in general:
I would use all four units, each one in its own cabinet, mostly for movie theater purposes.
Cabinets should be shallow (about 10") and about 12" width, but they can be up to 30" in height. Shape of the cabinet should be triangle or the trapezoid, driver front firing. This cabinets would be placed in wall corners, one on the floor, one by the ceiling. In the space between there will be 2 way speakers. So the idea is to have a stereo setup, with visually only two speaker cabinets in corner of the room, built from floor to ceiling. I would run the woofers with a dedicated Nuvo P2100 amp, and two woofers would be connected in series. So I would have only two woofer setups connected to amp, but the units in one setup would be in separate cabinets. I hope that this is clear enough.
My question is, what design should I pick for this drivers? Sealed or vented? Any ideas on the size of the cabinets? How to calculate this? I do not need them to be loud, I just want them to give me that deep punch at moderate loudness.
Many, many thanks.
Sealed designs are much more forgiving for the less experienced speaker builder. All things being equal, they will also tend to give a tighter more defined sound, and with four of them you will have a great deal of volume if you want it. Be sure to make the cabinets very stiff, and to coat the entire inside with a sealant.
I also have to say, placing subs in the corner, in general is a terrible idea.
You get the greatest amound of volume from a subwoofer in the corner, but this is because the room itself is acoustically amplifying the sound. The problem here is that you cannot control the manner in which the room affects the sound of your bass. Some may say "Ill fix it with the EQ" but that will not work. The reason why bass is so hard to get right is that the waves are as long or longer than the room dimensions. You can use an equalizer to achieve a flat response, but the frequencies that the room amplifies will lag behind the rest of the sound, it its the timing that will be off, and in a complex manner. Your music will always sound slow and confused. If you do what you are planning, its going to suck. Please understand that Ive put many systems in many houses, but never once has a subwoofer in the corner been good for anything besides reggae and explosions. You said you wanted to put a sub in the ceiling. What kind of ceiling is it? Which floor of the house is the sound system in? What kind of structure exists above the ceiling? What kinf of structure exists below and around the room? I have experience in this area, and I will help you if I can - Im back in university now, and I miss helping people with their setups the way I did when I was in the business.
You get the greatest amound of volume from a subwoofer in the corner, but this is because the room itself is acoustically amplifying the sound. The problem here is that you cannot control the manner in which the room affects the sound of your bass. Some may say "Ill fix it with the EQ" but that will not work. The reason why bass is so hard to get right is that the waves are as long or longer than the room dimensions. You can use an equalizer to achieve a flat response, but the frequencies that the room amplifies will lag behind the rest of the sound, it its the timing that will be off, and in a complex manner. Your music will always sound slow and confused. If you do what you are planning, its going to suck. Please understand that Ive put many systems in many houses, but never once has a subwoofer in the corner been good for anything besides reggae and explosions. You said you wanted to put a sub in the ceiling. What kind of ceiling is it? Which floor of the house is the sound system in? What kind of structure exists above the ceiling? What kinf of structure exists below and around the room? I have experience in this area, and I will help you if I can - Im back in university now, and I miss helping people with their setups the way I did when I was in the business.
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