After countless hours and dollars, periodicals and posts , I am ready to power up my 2A3. Any words of wisdom before power up ?


EC8010 said:and sniff the air constantly.
for the totally disgusting, but too familar, smell of components with the smoke letting go?
dave
variac is the best, but if you dont have it, you can use incadescent bulbs
powering it trhough the bulb will tell you how much current it draws, if too much, bulb's too bright and eventualy burns depends on wattage
i suggest you test power suply separately first, lets say with three/four bulbs in series
good luck!
powering it trhough the bulb will tell you how much current it draws, if too much, bulb's too bright and eventualy burns depends on wattage
i suggest you test power suply separately first, lets say with three/four bulbs in series
good luck!
Quote:
Usa a variac and check voltages as you ramp up the voltage...
Dave is correct...
Bulbs can be used also but being able to monitor the amperage says it all.
I suggest 5 or 6 shots of the hard stuff tonight followed by firing it up tomorrow.
Usa a variac and check voltages as you ramp up the voltage...
Dave is correct...
Bulbs can be used also but being able to monitor the amperage says it all.
I suggest 5 or 6 shots of the hard stuff tonight followed by firing it up tomorrow.
Lift off
As suggested I used the variac. I monitored the b+ and just had the rectifier in all was good 320 volts. I put all the tubes in and brought it up slowley......... 20 volts
. I checked each ch seperately
same same . I went in ... turned out had a bad connection from the B+ ground bus to chassis ground(star ground for the world). IT WORKS .......... . Thanks to every one who answered all my dum nub questions.
Jeff
As suggested I used the variac. I monitored the b+ and just had the rectifier in all was good 320 volts. I put all the tubes in and brought it up slowley......... 20 volts

same same . I went in ... turned out had a bad connection from the B+ ground bus to chassis ground(star ground for the world). IT WORKS .......... . Thanks to every one who answered all my dum nub questions.
Jeff
Attachments
Re: Lift off
Yippy
what are you using it with? And how does it sound?
dave
tenderland said:IT WORKS .......... .
Yippy

what are you using it with? And how does it sound?
dave
set up
Speakers -- Fostex 167 - base reflex
audioquest cables - slate
SONY - X555ES CD PLAYER
NAD - preamp (not realy needed )
How does it sound - Very clean , no hum , a little harsh , not much bass...
Speakers -- Fostex 167 - base reflex
audioquest cables - slate
SONY - X555ES CD PLAYER
NAD - preamp (not realy needed )
How does it sound - Very clean , no hum , a little harsh , not much bass...
Re: set up
🙂
any idea why? The FE167s i've heard (in Bob Brines ML-TL) produce quite satisfying bass. (how fresh are the 167s?)
dave
tenderland said:How does it sound - Very clean , no hum , a little harsh ,
🙂
not much bass...
any idea why? The FE167s i've heard (in Bob Brines ML-TL) produce quite satisfying bass. (how fresh are the 167s?)
dave
bass
very fresh however there was much more bass using the SS amp ADCOM GFA 535 II .( very small bass reflex encloser).
have to get some sleep . and listen fresh in the morning , may be I have to open the amp up a bit more. I would like to put the scope on it to see when it starts to clip.
SLEEP
(how fresh are the 167s?)
very fresh however there was much more bass using the SS amp ADCOM GFA 535 II .( very small bass reflex encloser).
have to get some sleep . and listen fresh in the morning , may be I have to open the amp up a bit more. I would like to put the scope on it to see when it starts to clip.

Re: bass
the fostex need a couple hundred hours to work in... and you might need to adjust the port to take into account the different output impedance of the amps.
dave
tenderland said:very fresh however there was much more bass using the SS amp ADCOM GFA 535 II
the fostex need a couple hundred hours to work in... and you might need to adjust the port to take into account the different output impedance of the amps.
dave
harsh
I have a pair of 166, I would like to build the stock BHL enclosure on the Fostex Web site. What do you think about the harshness ?. This is all new to me , will the amp mellow out ?
I have a pair of 166, I would like to build the stock BHL enclosure on the Fostex Web site. What do you think about the harshness ?. This is all new to me , will the amp mellow out ?
Re: harsh
A horn should help wit the speaker's balance... these are really designed for horns (you'd use the 167 for any other enclosure)... time should also help....i've also gotten good feedback on the addition of a phase plug.
I'll have to get a set of these myself someday and see how some of my mods work.... one thing that you should do is to ductseal the basket -- particularily the basket-magnet junction. Shape the ductseal here to smooth the exit shape of the back of the driver. A wool felt cap on the back of the magnet is also helpful (wrap it around the sides of the magnet and just use an elestic to hold it in place. Another trick is the 98 cent trick/tweak to damp the resonances at the edge of the whizzer & the cavity between the whizzer & the cone (do a search, there have been posts in just the last few days on this. These 3 mods are reversible.
dave
tenderland said:I have a pair of 166, I would like to build the stock BHL enclosure on the Fostex Web site. What do you think about the harshness ?. This is all new to me , will the amp mellow out ?
A horn should help wit the speaker's balance... these are really designed for horns (you'd use the 167 for any other enclosure)... time should also help....i've also gotten good feedback on the addition of a phase plug.
I'll have to get a set of these myself someday and see how some of my mods work.... one thing that you should do is to ductseal the basket -- particularily the basket-magnet junction. Shape the ductseal here to smooth the exit shape of the back of the driver. A wool felt cap on the back of the magnet is also helpful (wrap it around the sides of the magnet and just use an elestic to hold it in place. Another trick is the 98 cent trick/tweak to damp the resonances at the edge of the whizzer & the cavity between the whizzer & the cone (do a search, there have been posts in just the last few days on this. These 3 mods are reversible.
dave
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