So I just got my amp back from kicker which they fixed it, it was playing for a few days, in which time I upgraded my stock alternator which was 60-70 amp to a 120-140 amp alt, removed both fuse blocks in line to the amp and replaced them with 150amp circuit breaker. Last night I was banging hard and lights flickered and the windshield wipers came on, so I pulled over to investigate, pulled the fuse cover off the fuse block to find my 80 amp alternator fuse was blown, I turned the truck off and looked in the back where I have my capacitor hooked up and in doing so the positive lead on the cap touched the speaker wire on the box which was stilled hooked up to the kicker amp. I had just rewired my 2 12's for 2 ohms which instead of using 2 wires per port going pos and negative, it uses 1 wire from each port, a positive and negative, so the wires that werent hooked up where resting against the box when I moved the cap it touched.
So today I get the toyota 120 amp alt fuse and replace it, truck turns on and charges now, but the sound coming out of the subs are the right notes but it plays for a split second then stops, the amp doesnt go into protect, it just stops playing the sound, this happans about every 3-5 seconds. Im guessing my amp is screwed yet again, im going to have to send it back to kicker no less than a week iv had it back.
So today I get the toyota 120 amp alt fuse and replace it, truck turns on and charges now, but the sound coming out of the subs are the right notes but it plays for a split second then stops, the amp doesnt go into protect, it just stops playing the sound, this happans about every 3-5 seconds. Im guessing my amp is screwed yet again, im going to have to send it back to kicker no less than a week iv had it back.
Circuit breakers are absolutely useless to protect an amplifier. This is particularly true with the snap-action breakers that require that a large piece of metal (internal to the breaker) heats up to trip the breaker. When you get it back, I'd suggest that you insert an 80 amp fuse (maxi or wafer) in the B+ line. If that blows, go to a 100 amp fuse but I doubt that you'd need anything greater. You should use the lowest rated fuse possible that won't blow under normal operating conditions.
If the OEM fuse was 80 amps, that's what you should use. The fuse was likely selected to protect the wire in the charging system. Using a larger fuse could result in an electrical fire if the wiring can't handle the current.
If the OEM fuse was 80 amps, that's what you should use. The fuse was likely selected to protect the wire in the charging system. Using a larger fuse could result in an electrical fire if the wiring can't handle the current.
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