I've got sound coming out of left and right channels.
Next issue, the tonearm. At first it seemed like it was pointing down a bit more than normal. The arm lift was also a bit weak. That I adjusted using the set screw to get better results. Though I feel like the lift mechanism itself either needs replacement or cleaning.
What's really bugging me is how it floats at 0.
1. Too much vtf range to get a cartridge to float. As if it is vertically too stiff. With other tables there is very narrow sweet spot value that is 0g. With this one I can adjust the counterweight a fair amount and it neither shoots down or up.
2. The arm is swinging horizontally a bit on its own. So if I adjust it to 0g vtf, move it a bit to the left, it swings back right about 2cm.
From what I've seen on YouTube, and tried here, the top screw on the tonearm can be adjusted a bit to counter this effect. I couldn't get it to float right with this. It pulls in one direction or another. Counter skate will pull it outward when value is increased, as it should.
Any advice on adjusting/calibrating the arm would be appreciated. I've seen disassembly videos of for tonearm assembly. But to me it seems this issue is with the gimble assembly that holds the tonearm itself.
Next issue, the tonearm. At first it seemed like it was pointing down a bit more than normal. The arm lift was also a bit weak. That I adjusted using the set screw to get better results. Though I feel like the lift mechanism itself either needs replacement or cleaning.
What's really bugging me is how it floats at 0.
1. Too much vtf range to get a cartridge to float. As if it is vertically too stiff. With other tables there is very narrow sweet spot value that is 0g. With this one I can adjust the counterweight a fair amount and it neither shoots down or up.
2. The arm is swinging horizontally a bit on its own. So if I adjust it to 0g vtf, move it a bit to the left, it swings back right about 2cm.
From what I've seen on YouTube, and tried here, the top screw on the tonearm can be adjusted a bit to counter this effect. I couldn't get it to float right with this. It pulls in one direction or another. Counter skate will pull it outward when value is increased, as it should.
Any advice on adjusting/calibrating the arm would be appreciated. I've seen disassembly videos of for tonearm assembly. But to me it seems this issue is with the gimble assembly that holds the tonearm itself.
It could be that the arm is bent. I've seen many like that.
To make the arm float, set anti-scating to zero and adjust the arm weight (with or without cartridge) till it floats.
These arms adjust very well.
Don't turn the screws, chances are you'll never get things right again and you might loose a couple of balls from the bearings.
With the table levelled (I use a spirit level) the arm should position itself roughly at the outer circle of the platter.
If it returns to its rest position it is broken.
I for one never attempt to repair it but replace the arm. I know, they have become utterly expensive...
Hope this helps.
Hugo
hi Hugo,
I have 5 of these turntables in my house currently. Two are packed in travel cases. I got tired of unpacking those and setting them up in my house then again repacking them in cases so decided to buy another set. Wanted a set in black color, this is one of those two. I have good experience in setting up the arms, getting them to float, that is why this one just doesn't seem quite right.
I am of the same mind as you in as far as not messing with the tonearm screws. At the same time I don't know that I should use this as is. So I have option of disassemble arm, lubricate and put back together. Or buy and install new tonearm.
I have 5 of these turntables in my house currently. Two are packed in travel cases. I got tired of unpacking those and setting them up in my house then again repacking them in cases so decided to buy another set. Wanted a set in black color, this is one of those two. I have good experience in setting up the arms, getting them to float, that is why this one just doesn't seem quite right.
I am of the same mind as you in as far as not messing with the tonearm screws. At the same time I don't know that I should use this as is. So I have option of disassemble arm, lubricate and put back together. Or buy and install new tonearm.
If the arm is bent, chances are that the shafts are bent too.
But it could be a nice excercice.
I tried it ones but failed. But that's no reason for you not to do it.
Hugo
But it could be a nice excercice.
I tried it ones but failed. But that's no reason for you not to do it.
Hugo
Technics SL1200 tonearms use a double gimbal with spring loaded pins. If the TT has been dropped with the counterweight on the arm the pins may have damaged the cover over the balls. Dismantle the tonearm and massage the cover so the balls run freely, I'd also check to see the pin has no damage. These tonearms are hard to beat at the price.
Not sure what/where you mean exactly by massaging the cover. Are there any pictures you can share that might show what you mean? From what I understand there are 3 visible screws (maybe one more on bottom?) that tap into a ball bearings. What I was considering doing was unscrewing each of these, lubricating with a drop of oil on the bearing, turning with some round prod tool. Cleaning the set screw. Reassembling.
DO NOT lubricate the bearings they are designed to run dry.
This is an EPA-100 but the bearing setup is the same. The bearing is the top on under the top screw. You can see the bent cover over the balls, in this case they are ruby balls which are badly damaged. Your arm uses steel balls they should ok.
This is an EPA-100 but the bearing setup is the same. The bearing is the top on under the top screw. You can see the bent cover over the balls, in this case they are ruby balls which are badly damaged. Your arm uses steel balls they should ok.
Thanks for sharing the pictures. So the idea is essentially to remove the top set screw and massage/move the bearings inside a bit? Should this also be done on the sides as well? Also, should the tonearm be removed from the tonearm assembly before this is done?
Be prepared to intercept all the bearing balls that will fall out and plan for a way to get them back in place. 😉
Hugo
Hugo
Haha. Just talked to the fellow who services these, think I will just send to him. I actually have two wonky tonearms. Going to send to him the entire tonearm assemblies. Besides the tonearms themselves I also need the lifter mechanism serviced on both.
Good point, I put a bit of solder into the opening this prevents the balls falling through the bottom opening which is a PITA and very difficult to get them out.
SL1200 recap list is here -
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/technics-sl-1200-mk2-questions.990603/page-2
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/technics-sl-1200-mk2-questions.990603/page-2
I sent two tonearms out for service, got them back. They feel better than before, not too stiff or too loose. One thing I'm slightly concerned with is "phantom anti-skating". Anti skate set at 0, cartridge tracking force set at 0 - tonearm floating. Move the cartridge in about halfway and it slowly floats back out towards the rest position. Essentially anti skate engaged even at 0, setting anti skate to a higher value will magnify this action.
Does anyone have thoughts on this? My other tables don't do this, tonearms stay where I leave them. I've read some people say it's not uncommon, not something to be concerned with. The person who serviced these tonearms said the same.
Planned use is for mixing records - DJ'ing, no scratching but there is regular back-cueing. This would be with some Shure dj cartridges. But also audio use with a Denon 103R. For DJ use I would normally have anti-skate at 0, audio use I would normally match it to tracking force (normally 1.5g with the Denon).
Does anyone have thoughts on this? My other tables don't do this, tonearms stay where I leave them. I've read some people say it's not uncommon, not something to be concerned with. The person who serviced these tonearms said the same.
Planned use is for mixing records - DJ'ing, no scratching but there is regular back-cueing. This would be with some Shure dj cartridges. But also audio use with a Denon 103R. For DJ use I would normally have anti-skate at 0, audio use I would normally match it to tracking force (normally 1.5g with the Denon).
I don't think it's "phantom anti-skating" unless the arm is not mounted correctly.
I would think that it is virtually impossible to service these arms back to factory specs.
Is the arm still bent? (hope not 🙂 )
Blow gently on the floating arm in the rest position with arm unlocked. If it returns towards the platter without too much 'air' I think you are fine.
Hugo
I would think that it is virtually impossible to service these arms back to factory specs.
Is the arm still bent? (hope not 🙂 )
Blow gently on the floating arm in the rest position with arm unlocked. If it returns towards the platter without too much 'air' I think you are fine.
Hugo
Thanks Hugo. That puts my mind at ease. It is like a very mild anti skate that seems to be always present.
Nothing to worry about, certainly not when used as a DJ table.
We all know how some DJ"s tend to abuse the cartridge and tips by mounting the counterweight the other way around
and even glue coins on top of the cartridge holder if it's not the concorde style type.
For normal audio, set it to 1.4 or so.
Hugo
We all know how some DJ"s tend to abuse the cartridge and tips by mounting the counterweight the other way around
and even glue coins on top of the cartridge holder if it's not the concorde style type.
For normal audio, set it to 1.4 or so.
Hugo