I built a basic one once but I have subs in another room I’m trying to decide if there worth buying ? As I can’t cut my own wood or anything right now the saw is buried in the garage . Does the isolation pad help?
Changing the height of the sub, changes the loci of the bass wave poles and nodes in the room, Do the old room crawl trick and concentrate on height changes. Isolation pads can attenuate how much energy gets into the structure in some cases;
These represent two different room interacitons, no one panecia solution.
These represent two different room interacitons, no one panecia solution.
My go too for all things industrial is always McMaster Carr. Always high quality, In 30 years of ordering almost weekly, never a botched order and overnight delivery. Their catalog is daunting, fortunately if you can follow a picture-book, decision tree; it will take you to your object of lust, pretty quickly. www.mcmaster.com
I bought small wooden bowls on Etsy and put racquetballs under them.
Industrial rule-of-thumb is that the resonant frequency of the absorber system should be half that of the frequency you are trying to isolate. Broadband isolation is no simple matter!
The sub has for feet already it’s downfiring…I put a carpet padding and a square of of wood under it. Box on the end . Not sure if it helps at all.
jamo a3sub.3
I could get a proper riser eventually the flooring was ripped out for no reason.
jamo a3sub.3
I could get a proper riser eventually the flooring was ripped out for no reason.
Kingnoob
If you are looking to keep energy out of the house structure, what you've done is going to be 99.999% innefective. I'd guess that you have neither the mass nor the necessary distance from a boundry to decouple your sub at the frequency of interest. You're looking a very long wavelengths of sound, what you've done is probally effecite at several 100's of Hz, not 10's of Hz.
You may be better off simply adding a bunch of mass to the subwoofer. In my example, photo above (and decidely over-kill) the sub is securly stuck down to 50kg of material, lowering the natural resonance of the assembly to well below a frequency that the subwoofer can excite.
If you are looking to keep energy out of the house structure, what you've done is going to be 99.999% innefective. I'd guess that you have neither the mass nor the necessary distance from a boundry to decouple your sub at the frequency of interest. You're looking a very long wavelengths of sound, what you've done is probally effecite at several 100's of Hz, not 10's of Hz.
You may be better off simply adding a bunch of mass to the subwoofer. In my example, photo above (and decidely over-kill) the sub is securly stuck down to 50kg of material, lowering the natural resonance of the assembly to well below a frequency that the subwoofer can excite.
Am I better off waiting until I can afford a aurolex or similar pad ? I think I’ll remove the carpeting stuff I’m using . The piece of flooring was because floor is unfinished, maybe it doesn’t do anything .
I really don’t know what to do ?
What to do depends upon what you wish to acheive. Reducing a mechanical couple to the foor requires one approach. Changing the distribution of standing waves in the room is a very different approach. What's your goal?
Yeah it’s not that terrible, should I remove the wood it’s sitting on top ? I can’t set it standing up because the silly dumb cat jumps on it .
You have the ability to capture empirical data. Move the sub aournd and see what if anyting it gains you.
I have a second sub in the front wall neither can be moved . Both are about the same power rating and same woofer size 10”.