Industrial 12V PWR supply to be used with T-amp

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#3
motherone said:
That should be fine.. for 4 T-amps! You probably can get away with just a simple LM317 based linear supply for the t-amp.. Run you maybe $15 for a velleman kit or something.
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Actually, I'll plug one of my favorite little shops.. Check out www.tangentsoft.net/audio/shop and check out his tread kit. It's everything you need to make a 1.5 amp linear PSU for ~$15.. All you add is the transformer (12VAC 2.4 amp wallwart is available at allelectronics.com for $5, I think).
 
#5
I've got a 24V/28V PowerOne unit like that powering my Millett Hybrid headphone amp. Good quality stuff. I can't believe how cheap they go for on Ebay. Mine was ~$25 shipped. I'd have picked up one for my T-Amp, but I couldn't find one in 12V or 13.5V. I heard laptop or LCD PSUs are also good, but I wasn't sure about that one. I'd want to get more information before I went that route.

It looks like I'll be picking up one of those 150W units though. That's a great deal. I'll never have to buy another.
 
#6
I dunno. I'm all for surplus stuff on ebay (got loads of it here 😀 ).. But 7.5 amps is really overkill for the t-amp. I think maybe 2 amps max is more appropriate, like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7532167818&category=11772&rd=1

JWFokker: Are you using a 7.5A PSU on your Millett? Or one of the smaller ones? I'm in the process of building two of them (one for me, one for a friend) from the head-fi group buy.
 
#7
JWFokker said:
I've got a 24V/28V PowerOne unit like that powering my Millett Hybrid headphone amp. Good quality stuff. I can't believe how cheap they go for on Ebay. Mine was ~$25 shipped. I'd have picked up one for my T-Amp, but I couldn't find one in 12V or 13.5V. I heard laptop or LCD PSUs are also good, but I wasn't sure about that one. I'd want to get more information before I went that route.

It looks like I'll be picking up one of those 150W units though. That's a great deal. I'll never have to buy another.
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Hi,

Thank for sharing your experience with me !

Sorry to read that you were not able to find a 12V on ebay. This is exactly where I bought my PowerOne :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7530873665&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOAB:US:6

I could had bid and get it for a little bit less ($19.99), but I was not at home when the auction was ending. Buying this one was interesting for me as the person who sale it is from Canada and I wont have to pay some duty fee and taxes (at least $5).

Thank’s again !
 
#8
I've got a MAP130-1024, so it can do 6.25A at 24V or 5.4A at 28V. A bit more than I need for the Millett Hybrid. I two of them from the Head-Fi group buy also.

Sure 12.5A is a lot more than I need for the T-Amp, but I'll never have to buy another 12V PSU. I plan on running up to 3 T-Amps, so it's worth it, I think.
 
#9
JWFokker said:
I've got a MAP130-1024, so it can do 6.25A at 24V or 5.4A at 28V. A bit more than I need for the Millett Hybrid. I two of them from the Head-Fi group buy also.

Sure 12.5A is a lot more than I need for the T-Amp, but I'll never have to buy another 12V PSU. I plan on running up to 3 T-Amps, so it's worth it, I think.
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With 12.5A, you could make a fully biamped 6 channel HT system! Are you going to be tri-amping some speakers?
 
#12
I have another question for you. I want to put the power supply in a separate box and run a cable to the male IEC connector of the amp. I would like to know if there is a maximum length I can use before I get some bad effect on the sound ?

Also, I read somewhere that switching supply should not be used with T-amp....and other pretend that their amp sound better using it 😕
 
#15
motherone said:


With 12.5A, you could make a fully biamped 6 channel HT system! Are you going to be tri-amping some speakers?
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Well, bi-amping the fronts and using an single amp for the full range rears. I don't think I can run dipole subs off a t-amp sadly. I'd probably have to get one of those higher powered 41hz kits, but I strongly dislike working with SMDs.
 
#16
kanaddict said:
I have another question for you. I want to put the power supply in a separate box and run a cable to the male IEC connector of the amp. I would like to know if there is a maximum length I can use before I get some bad effect on the sound ?

Also, I read somewhere that switching supply should not be used with T-amp....and other pretend that their amp sound better using it 😕
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Add something like 470uF + .47uF at entrance on the amp and it probably won't matter.

The problem with switching amps is that both the T-amp and the PSU are switching, so you may run into harmonic interference/overtones with a switching PSU on the T-amp. With the current draw being so low on the T-amp, a 1.5 amp linear PSU with a LM317 regulator should work fine. If you're concerned about current draw, go with a LM338 or one of the LT1085 variants.
 
#17
Hi all,

I'm about to build a light weight bassguitar power amp. Do you fellas think that Tracopower TIS series industrial powersuplies are suitable for audio use(t-amp)? I don't know pretty much anything about those parameters like EMI suppression, Ripple and noise, Line & Load regulation...

I'm planning to buy AMP2 kit from www.41hz.com because it seems to be the most suitable for my use. I'd like to use switchingmode ps because of its light weight. Desired output could be (RMS) 2x200W/8ohm or 1x400W/8ohm or more bridged.

Thanks in advance!
 
#19
I'd have to agree there is no point to a higher amperage switching supply. Even a very low part count LM7812 is MUCH cleaner than even a good switcher. Switchers are only used for higher current applications to cut costs, avoid a large transformer, weight, and efficiency. These factors do not apply with a mere ~ 1A need for SI plus an amp margin. These amps happen to have good PSRR so you can get away with using a switcher while you wouldn't in some other amps, but there's still no good reason to do it for powering a single SI.

If you're trying to put together an entire HT out of several, you're facing a different scenario, needing more amps. I'd still go with a linear but it would make a switcher seem more reasonable.

So to answer the OP, "is this a good supply?". No it's got nothing in particular making it any better than (any other choice). It'll work, but the qualities that distinguish it are actually negative things.
 
#20
! said:

So to answer the OP, "is this a good supply?". No it's got nothing in particular making it any better than (any other choice). It'll work, but the qualities that distinguish it are actually negative things.
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Well, it's to late as there is two of them on the road to my home. I'll try them & compare them to another 1.5A supply I have and will repport the results...good or bad !

Thanks,

Daniel
 
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