I have some Niles HDLCR in wall speakers that I will never use as they’re intended but I wondered would they make decent hifi speakers if I were to fit them into some cabinets? If so how would I calculate the size of box needed ?
Use what they said in the manual for the in wall volume : i.e. always very low volume because it is in wall, no ?
It is not only about volume box but front wall size as well. When on a wall the loudspeaker has the equivalent of a huge front baffle you will not have anymore when boxed. So unluckilly it needs filter value changes.
Curious : what those Burbon biscuits ?
It is not only about volume box but front wall size as well. When on a wall the loudspeaker has the equivalent of a huge front baffle you will not have anymore when boxed. So unluckilly it needs filter value changes.
Curious : what those Burbon biscuits ?
tell me more - how are they made?- , I am a basic french that lurked on awesome looking biscuits that look like full of butter and ? 🙂 ! Fisching technic, shame on you, lol !
About those front baffles : use them as the user manual advice : the drivers are certainly made with Thiel and Small spec for very small volume load. So use the same and put them the closest distance from the front wall, better close on it or in between books on a shelf on a books wall shelves to have the same as an infinite front baffle load (the wall).
About those front baffles : use them as the user manual advice : the drivers are certainly made with Thiel and Small spec for very small volume load. So use the same and put them the closest distance from the front wall, better close on it or in between books on a shelf on a books wall shelves to have the same as an infinite front baffle load (the wall).
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Spec sheet here, with volume dimensions:
https://www.digitalcinema.com.au/me...s-HDLCR-In-Wall-Speaker-Specifications-sm.pdf
I'd be inclined to add a woofer underneath, to get lower bass & deal with baffle step
https://www.digitalcinema.com.au/me...s-HDLCR-In-Wall-Speaker-Specifications-sm.pdf
I'd be inclined to add a woofer underneath, to get lower bass & deal with baffle step
Thanks Pete . Perhaps it’s not such a great plan after all. I’ll probably sell them then .
Pretty easy build.
Designed to be sealed.
Make the baffle as wide as you comfortable with.
Assuming space between wall studs and height.
80 to 96 liters.
But they are 5" ? drivers
So dont really need more than half of that.
Designed to be sealed.
Make the baffle as wide as you comfortable with.
Assuming space between wall studs and height.
80 to 96 liters.
But they are 5" ? drivers
So dont really need more than half of that.
I'd think it a shame not to have a larger frontage to the box since this adds a baffle step. It wouldn't have to be deep. Ie: more attention to the outside of the box than the inside, which can be equalised. The crossover would also already be tuned that way.
However really you can put it in any reasonable box you like and there's a way to adjust the performance.
However really you can put it in any reasonable box you like and there's a way to adjust the performance.
I love wide baffles.
So wide baffle freestanding project wouldn't bother me.
Trick is in wall, would be shallow
Same thing free standing.
If entertainment center/ TV is flat to the wall already.
Sitting at ear level on a stand , flat / flush against wall.
The wall still behaves like a large baffle.
Likewise mounted in a shallow box, then mounted on the wall.
Same thing just no wall holes.
Going with the sealed concept.
Some " speaker stands" would be matching sub
with the well known sealed Daytons
UM12-22 or go all out UM15-22
So wide baffle freestanding project wouldn't bother me.
Trick is in wall, would be shallow
Same thing free standing.
If entertainment center/ TV is flat to the wall already.
Sitting at ear level on a stand , flat / flush against wall.
The wall still behaves like a large baffle.
Likewise mounted in a shallow box, then mounted on the wall.
Same thing just no wall holes.
Going with the sealed concept.
Some " speaker stands" would be matching sub
with the well known sealed Daytons
UM12-22 or go all out UM15-22
I got a pair of PSB in wall coax speakers that I plan on installing in an very early walnut stereo console.
I already ripped out the speakers and electronics so I just have to create a baffle to mount the speaker behind the original grills. For electronics I got a whole bunch of Parasound Z components and a few ACA 1.8 amps. Plus a B1 and B1K... so I got some possibilites. The console has shelves ready to go for the electronics. It opens from the front via tambour doors.
The baffle of the console is quite wide so that should work and the back of the sides of the cabinets, where the speakers vent, are opened, so I plan to just play around with stuffing the cabinet until I get a nice bass tone... Not looking for depth, just good tone. With a flat screen on top it will make for a really nice "media center" for our spare "Martini Room".
You might want to try that.
I already ripped out the speakers and electronics so I just have to create a baffle to mount the speaker behind the original grills. For electronics I got a whole bunch of Parasound Z components and a few ACA 1.8 amps. Plus a B1 and B1K... so I got some possibilites. The console has shelves ready to go for the electronics. It opens from the front via tambour doors.
The baffle of the console is quite wide so that should work and the back of the sides of the cabinets, where the speakers vent, are opened, so I plan to just play around with stuffing the cabinet until I get a nice bass tone... Not looking for depth, just good tone. With a flat screen on top it will make for a really nice "media center" for our spare "Martini Room".
You might want to try that.
Would it be an idea to make triangle enclosures, so that they can fit into the corner between a wall and ceiling, so benefiting from the ceiling and wall to extend the front baffle?
The correct way to eat a Bourbon is to bite one biscuit off, then lick the soft filling of the second, or they can be dunked.
The correct way to eat a Bourbon is to bite one biscuit off, then lick the soft filling of the second, or they can be dunked.
Yes, if you can arrange a wedge shaped wavefront. Not as easy as it sounds but a worthy goal if you can.
Normally you would mod a bit LP filter to decrease the midrange spl and HF padding by changing resistors. Cabinet volume gets calculated as with any other drive unit project. You evaluate bassmid T/S parameters by measuring impedance, using formulae or a dedicated program like ARTA and such and by feeding a cabinet simulator, the LF response is known.
I would give it a shot, even without any x/o mods. A LP inductor is easily modded by adding a certain number of magnet wire turns to increase its mH value. Two 8 ohm units in parallel form a 4 ohm nominal load and 1-1.2mH is a typical value that would work well in a cabinet placed in free space, unlike this crossover designed for in-wall.
Yep, something simple sealed
40 to 60 liters
Floor standing or shallow wall mount
Or sell.
Try refine something basic that works.
I played around with it
toss in sealed 15" active 2way 200 ish Hz crossover
40 to 60 liters
Floor standing or shallow wall mount
Or sell.
Try refine something basic that works.
I played around with it
toss in sealed 15" active 2way 200 ish Hz crossover
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The second one (Niles_Wallmount) would work, as it is very close to the originally intended usage, but it's just 89dB/2W !!
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