I want to make a simple IB type sub with the Dayton 15" IB subwoofer inside a circular tube section facing sideways; I guess it wd look a little like this http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/gallo5/ref1.jpg
Would a crossover point around 180 hz be ok?
Would a crossover point around 180 hz be ok?
Your explanation is still unclear, "one per side underneath a full range" could mean two speakers, one on either side of a full range, or a single on one side of a full range.Sorry didnt explain well, as always.. I'd use one per side underneath a full range - I remember reading that the Kef Blade is crossed over at 350 or something(which surprised me somewhat), but I don't know how suitable an IB or OB is, crossed high
Since the Kef uses two low speakers on either side, I assume you are planning one per side, two total per speaker enclosure.
At 160 Hz, they should work OK at the crossover point (other than vocals will tend to "walk" up and down the cabinet), though unless the stand portion is also used as a chamber, looks to be an awfully tiny enclosure for two 15" speakers.
The KEF looks like the rounding would reduce cabinet diffraction, all the hard edges on your design would encourage diffraction.
Back to basics: why crossover at 180 (a detectable place) when you can crossover at, say, 140 (most mid-range drivers will go down there just fine)? If at 140, you really do not need two subs (except for heterogeneous activation of room modes) for any music reason, so you can locate the sub in a good corner (any corner of the room). Not hard to devise a speaker than handles two octaves (35-140).
BTW, my giant OB plays rather lower than my powerful Klipschorn, but still not a wise way to house a sub if you have only one.
(I lived with a 140 Hz crossover in many rooms and layouts for several decades and you can take my word there's no audible localization artifact with music if the crossover is 24dB/8ave or better. True, smart-asked people can devise lab demonstrations that prove you can localize down to 10 Hz and in this forum, some want to claim they can hear things others can't. Now I use 110 Hz... not sure if it is any better.)
Ben
BTW, my giant OB plays rather lower than my powerful Klipschorn, but still not a wise way to house a sub if you have only one.
(I lived with a 140 Hz crossover in many rooms and layouts for several decades and you can take my word there's no audible localization artifact with music if the crossover is 24dB/8ave or better. True, smart-asked people can devise lab demonstrations that prove you can localize down to 10 Hz and in this forum, some want to claim they can hear things others can't. Now I use 110 Hz... not sure if it is any better.)
Ben
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Back to basics: why crossover at 180 (a detectable place) when you can crossover at, say, 140 (most mid-range drivers will go down there just fine)?
Ben
The idea was a kind of open baffle 2 way using a sub per side, similar to the pic posted in fact
This way I thought i cd push the x/o higher and it wd not be noticed. With the x/o quite high I shd be able to avoid issues w impedance, I can roll off the (40hz fs) FR driver with a single cap and with the open baffle acoustic rolloff will effectively be 2nd order
Edit what woofer is specced for the Gradient, is it a Dayton IB?
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Oh, I see your concept now. Within your framework, I suppose that sort of jives. But it has been a while since I thought about that kind of minimum part-count "natural" sound system. The high-tech multi-driver multi-amp system has held a lot more appeal for a lot more people. But even though I am of that school, I do believe there is a lot to be said for the kind of sound reproduction you are talking about. For sure, the less box the better.
Ben
Ben
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