Hi, I have electrical disturbances when I operate the motorized window shutters, the initial cue of the motors causes bad noises in the various home hi-fi systems. The general electrical panel has a dedicated line for the motorized shutters, and on that line I would like to put a capacitor/inductor that I recovered from a washing machine, could it work? Is 1-3 IN and 2-4 OUT okay? I attach image
Also try connecting the motor housing to Earth.
If it is an old motor, may be worn brushes.
Drill (electric, hand) machine suppressor capacitor can also be tried, those are pretty common.
Transient voltage suppressor, MOV, R-C networks, can all be tried on the amp.
If it is an old motor, may be worn brushes.
Drill (electric, hand) machine suppressor capacitor can also be tried, those are pretty common.
Transient voltage suppressor, MOV, R-C networks, can all be tried on the amp.
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In our old house, anytime anythink in the house turned on, pops and clicks come through my system very loudly. I built this power conditioner, and it filtered out all noise.
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...ew-uber-power-strip-project-with-pics.238790/
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...ew-uber-power-strip-project-with-pics.238790/
It is already provided on the metal part of the capacitorYes thats ok but I would add the earth line too between the two capacitors.
The electrical system is new like the shutter motors, they are already groundedAlso try connecting the motor housing to Earth.
If it is an old motor, may be worn brushes.
Drill (electric, hand) machine suppressor capacitor can also be tried, those are pretty common.
Transient voltage suppressor, MOV, R-C networks, can all be tried on the amp.
How big is that breaker? 8Amps? 32Amps?electrical panel has a dedicated line for the motorized shutters
Are there any specs for the shutter motor?
That filter is rated 10 Amps. If you try to suck more than that it may overheat and burn.
Is the shutter motor system properly grounded? It probably should not be putting a big POP on the line, and may need a ground (PE, green/yellow/bare) wire to divert the surge.
Motors with brushes create sparks when they run. Sparks create wide-band RF noise that's likely to radiate into circuits that aren't shielded. Adding RFI/EMI filters at the inputs to the audio circuits will cut down the interference as well. You may have to use an LC filter to get enough attenuation. Make sure you don't have peaking in the filter.
It's unlikely that a power line filter will do much unless the power cable is acting as an antenna and radiating EMI inside the chassis of the audio circuit. Then again, as long as you connect the filter correctly there's no harm in trying.
Tom
It's unlikely that a power line filter will do much unless the power cable is acting as an antenna and radiating EMI inside the chassis of the audio circuit. Then again, as long as you connect the filter correctly there's no harm in trying.
Tom
Hi, I have electrical disturbances when I operate the motorized window shutters, the initial cue of the motors causes bad noises in the various home hi-fi systems. The general electrical panel has a dedicated line for the motorized shutters, and on that line I would like to put a capacitor/inductor that I recovered from a washing machine, could it work? Is 1-3 IN and 2-4 OUT okay? I attach image View attachment 1146095
That is an RF filter... what you need is a snubber: a combination of a capacitor and resistor connected in series. The capacitor conducts the RF noise; the resistor burns that energy and dissipates it in a form of heat.
The root cause is most likely:
1. The back EMF at the moment inductive load, i.e. the AC motor (with the commutator/brushes) - is turned ON, and in particular OFF.
2. The commutator ON/OFF switching that happens at all times while the rotor is spinning.
3. Sometimes even the limit switches are part of the same, cheap control START/STOP circuit (sitting at mains volatge), in which case they (the limit switches) must also be treated with the snubber combination - just a different capacotor values... the reissitor could be chosen to burn as much of that energy as possible.
The above should be done by someone who installs this type of equipment - usualy a licenced electrician that understands the issue.
I assume the shutter motors are wired directly to your panel, this is not a good place for DIY solutions, contact the shutter manufacturer. Do these motors have the CE mark? The EU has pretty strict EMI regulations and they are probably in violation of the rules, it is possible that they have a motor retrofit to address the noise problem. You may need to consult an electrician as well, DIY on permanently installed mains wiring may not be a good idea.
Most of the European motor makers like Baumuller have shifted or started plants in China and India, among other places, because of cost reasons.
And on the cheaper side of things....the wholesale price for a 1/4" drill is only about $10 here.
When you open it, the mind stops in shock...how does it work?
250W is less than the power of a small drill, so the unit must be well lubed, and aligned.
And like above, definitely not the place for inexperienced people.
And you may violate the insurance / warranty if you do it. Best contact the seller, and get it done by a competent person if they are not giving you support.
And on the cheaper side of things....the wholesale price for a 1/4" drill is only about $10 here.
When you open it, the mind stops in shock...how does it work?
250W is less than the power of a small drill, so the unit must be well lubed, and aligned.
And like above, definitely not the place for inexperienced people.
And you may violate the insurance / warranty if you do it. Best contact the seller, and get it done by a competent person if they are not giving you support.
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