Hello
Is is it possible to turn a Amplifier Class AB into H class. I like to turn my Class AB into H.
Is is it possible to turn a Amplifier Class AB into H class. I like to turn my Class AB into H.
If you do understand how class H works, you'll realize how easy it is in principle to convert most class B amp designs to H. There are exceptions - some output stages will not tolerate it. But most will. Converting an existing unit, however is not always straightforward. Adding the rail switches to an existing board may be a mess, resulting in commutation noise and/or instability. If it's designed that way from the start with all 4 rails properly decoupled it will usually work fine. And you do require a quad-rail power supply, which won't exist unless it was planned for or unless you were already using two center-tapped trafos in series to get the required voltage.
you need another power supply (low power) say +- 25 volts
then a high power supply +- 60v
two fets and a schottky diode and level shifter should do the trick.
You will need to make a custom board for this circuitry
check Apex A5 amp
then a high power supply +- 60v
two fets and a schottky diode and level shifter should do the trick.
You will need to make a custom board for this circuitry
check Apex A5 amp
Hi Guys
Bigger class-AB amps have higher idle heat just from having higher rails than a smaller AB amp, so efficiency is worse for the large one.
Class-H amps generally have very poor THD compared to non-rail-switching amps. There is a serious performance advantage to using much higher rail voltages than the power out desired requires.
Why are you so concerned about efficiency? Are you trying to build a battery-powered amp?
Have fun
Bigger class-AB amps have higher idle heat just from having higher rails than a smaller AB amp, so efficiency is worse for the large one.
Class-H amps generally have very poor THD compared to non-rail-switching amps. There is a serious performance advantage to using much higher rail voltages than the power out desired requires.
Why are you so concerned about efficiency? Are you trying to build a battery-powered amp?
Have fun
I have been told H or D for Subwoofer for their high power.
What wrong with using large AB amplifier for a big subwoofer? %65 efficiency
What wrong with using large AB amplifier for a big subwoofer? %65 efficiency
First off, what do you mean by "big subwoofer"
What sort of SPL are you aiming at vs. freq.
Secondly, what size space.
Then the question (in its simplest form) is what power do you need with what speaker to get the performance target?
If raw power is your goal, consider the Behringer iNuke series.
Cheaper and faster than trying to convert an amp that is already working.
If your electric service is not so good, and your electric cost is high enough for you to think about saving $$ via efficiency in an amplifier, then you have other things to think about - and in all likelyhood you want a Class D amp to save power $$.
By all means, look at some Class H schematics online - QSC made some as did Peavey, their schematics are online. You'll see that you'd not want to go down that road other than buying one already built or repairing a broken one.
_-_-
What sort of SPL are you aiming at vs. freq.
Secondly, what size space.
Then the question (in its simplest form) is what power do you need with what speaker to get the performance target?
If raw power is your goal, consider the Behringer iNuke series.
Cheaper and faster than trying to convert an amp that is already working.
If your electric service is not so good, and your electric cost is high enough for you to think about saving $$ via efficiency in an amplifier, then you have other things to think about - and in all likelyhood you want a Class D amp to save power $$.
By all means, look at some Class H schematics online - QSC made some as did Peavey, their schematics are online. You'll see that you'd not want to go down that road other than buying one already built or repairing a broken one.
_-_-
@bear:
It is 18inch Subwoofers for 105db distance 5 meter away from speaker 60Hz frequency subwoofer amplifier.
Yes it true much costlier for build unless you want dirty work. In Goa electric cost is low 3inr 1unit.
It is 18inch Subwoofers for 105db distance 5 meter away from speaker 60Hz frequency subwoofer amplifier.
Yes it true much costlier for build unless you want dirty work. In Goa electric cost is low 3inr 1unit.
About Classd Amplifier Voltage Increase:
Assembled IRAUD2000 Deluxe Top D Class 2000W IRS2092S Digital Amplifier Board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
If i want to run -/+110dc on that Class d amplifier board what has to be changed?
Is this change enough:
The 4 Filter Capacitor from 80vdc to 160vdc
The 4 Mosfet from IRFP4227 200v to 300v
The 6 Resistor to higher ohms value
Assembled IRAUD2000 Deluxe Top D Class 2000W IRS2092S Digital Amplifier Board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
If i want to run -/+110dc on that Class d amplifier board what has to be changed?
Is this change enough:
The 4 Filter Capacitor from 80vdc to 160vdc
The 4 Mosfet from IRFP4227 200v to 300v
The 6 Resistor to higher ohms value
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Change nothing.
Use it as is. Also don't run it into clipping.
Saying 18" subwoofer has no meaning.
You can not exceed the power (thermal) limits for the driver.
The max SPL is determined by the sensitivity, the power limit of the driver and the maximum excursion (for a given enclosure).
60Hz is btw a "woofer" not a subwoofer.
An octave lower at 30Hz is considered a subwoofer.
You might want to look into enclosure designs and see what parameters they require for the drivers.
Or if you already have the driver(s) then see what enclosure designs are candidates based on the driver's parameters.
One method you might get a very good result from, which is very well documented here is the "TH" or Tapped Horn design. It gets a lot of output and bass from a relatively small enclosure.
You see, you did not specify the size of the room and also the maximum size of the enclosure!
Given enough space or some woodworking equipment you can build a "real" bass horn
and get serious SPL. They can be "folded" to make a more compact unit...
There are a lot of options, and you will need to put some boundaries on all of the main specifications & requirements in order to come up with a good answer.
For example there is no point in a 2000 watt class D amplifier running a speaker rated at 200watts (not usually). Also the cost of a driver that can actually handle even 1kW is pretty high compared to several that will handle ~150watts. Which will give you the best performance and why?
_-_-
Use it as is. Also don't run it into clipping.
Saying 18" subwoofer has no meaning.
You can not exceed the power (thermal) limits for the driver.
The max SPL is determined by the sensitivity, the power limit of the driver and the maximum excursion (for a given enclosure).
60Hz is btw a "woofer" not a subwoofer.
An octave lower at 30Hz is considered a subwoofer.
You might want to look into enclosure designs and see what parameters they require for the drivers.
Or if you already have the driver(s) then see what enclosure designs are candidates based on the driver's parameters.
One method you might get a very good result from, which is very well documented here is the "TH" or Tapped Horn design. It gets a lot of output and bass from a relatively small enclosure.
You see, you did not specify the size of the room and also the maximum size of the enclosure!
Given enough space or some woodworking equipment you can build a "real" bass horn
and get serious SPL. They can be "folded" to make a more compact unit...
There are a lot of options, and you will need to put some boundaries on all of the main specifications & requirements in order to come up with a good answer.
For example there is no point in a 2000 watt class D amplifier running a speaker rated at 200watts (not usually). Also the cost of a driver that can actually handle even 1kW is pretty high compared to several that will handle ~150watts. Which will give you the best performance and why?
_-_-
Btw, the graphs show this is a 200 watt amplifier, not a 2kW amplifier.
It wants +/-70vdc max, although it appears to make the same power with only 50vdc.
I think it wants +/- supply.
Not sure where they are getting the higher power specs - so either the spec or the graph is wrong - best to check that out first. Ah, I see bridged mode is higher power. Ok
It wants +/-70vdc max, although it appears to make the same power with only 50vdc.
I think it wants +/- supply.
Not sure where they are getting the higher power specs - so either the spec or the graph is wrong - best to check that out first. Ah, I see bridged mode is higher power. Ok
I have 2 option only either Class AB or the Class D
For 4 Ohms 1000watt Subwoofer use which amplifier should i get?
Class AB in the screenshot ?
Or
Class D in the screenshot
For 4 Ohms 1000watt Subwoofer use which amplifier should i get?
Class AB in the screenshot ?
Or
Class D in the screenshot
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Why do you think you want to bridge that amplifier??
Suggest you run it first and see how loud it goes??
Also, I only see a picture, without specs it is impossible to know what it is capable of...
You also need to specify the load/speakers... number of speakers, specs, how many per channel?? etc.
Suggest you run it first and see how loud it goes??
Also, I only see a picture, without specs it is impossible to know what it is capable of...
You also need to specify the load/speakers... number of speakers, specs, how many per channel?? etc.
Hello Friends
I am getting a hum noise when i combine both the input together "Input++" and "Input Gnd,Gnd" when you raise the volume the hum sound can be heard.
But when i connect each amplifier board to different sources there is no noise.
The amplifier runs on a single dual power supply Ac 80-0-80 Ac
How can i connect these 2 amplifier boards to 1 source without a crossover?
I am getting a hum noise when i combine both the input together "Input++" and "Input Gnd,Gnd" when you raise the volume the hum sound can be heard.
But when i connect each amplifier board to different sources there is no noise.
The amplifier runs on a single dual power supply Ac 80-0-80 Ac
How can i connect these 2 amplifier boards to 1 source without a crossover?
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