The protective tweeter grill covers in a pair of my Acoustic Energy AE1s have fallen off. The tweeter itself is fine.
How do I reattach them?
I really do not want to affect the speaker at all.
Hot glue? Epoxy?
Do I attach the goo to the cover first and then settle it on the tweeter? Or otherwise?
I assume the crossover was designed to take the acoustic effects of the protective grills? I did listen to the speakers briefly and they didn't sound untoward but I would like to keep them in their original form ( I did replace the foam surrounds with factory sourced butyl replacements ).
Thanks
How do I reattach them?
I really do not want to affect the speaker at all.
Hot glue? Epoxy?
Do I attach the goo to the cover first and then settle it on the tweeter? Or otherwise?
I assume the crossover was designed to take the acoustic effects of the protective grills? I did listen to the speakers briefly and they didn't sound untoward but I would like to keep them in their original form ( I did replace the foam surrounds with factory sourced butyl replacements ).
Thanks
Attachments
Epoxy is way too strong and once you applied it it's there forever, which may be a good or a bad thing, you decide.
Personally I always have a long narrow nose squeeze bottle, think a mini Mustard bottle, loaded with old style Nitro adhesive (evaporated Nitro transparent paint base), chemically similar to nail enamel, which long ago was the "speaker cement" , and use it most anywhere (locking nuts, etc.)
In that case you put cabinet face up, put grille in place and apply a cement bead all around, then let dry.
You may apply a bead on frame and then sit grille on top or sit it first and apply bead at the end.
I still use that old fashioned adhesive because if needed I can clean residue fully with a rag soaked in acetone, paint thinner or nail enamel remover but you decide.
If using cyanoacrilate use the gel type.
Avoid water based types such as Carpenters/white/Elmer's glue, it tends to rust metals under it, suspect PH is not neutral by any means.
Personally I always have a long narrow nose squeeze bottle, think a mini Mustard bottle, loaded with old style Nitro adhesive (evaporated Nitro transparent paint base), chemically similar to nail enamel, which long ago was the "speaker cement" , and use it most anywhere (locking nuts, etc.)
In that case you put cabinet face up, put grille in place and apply a cement bead all around, then let dry.
You may apply a bead on frame and then sit grille on top or sit it first and apply bead at the end.
I still use that old fashioned adhesive because if needed I can clean residue fully with a rag soaked in acetone, paint thinner or nail enamel remover but you decide.
If using cyanoacrilate use the gel type.
Avoid water based types such as Carpenters/white/Elmer's glue, it tends to rust metals under it, suspect PH is not neutral by any means.
I assume the crossover was designed to take the acoustic effects of the protective grills?
You would be correct in that the protective grills were taken into account in the engineering of the loudspeaker.
For interest's sake, here's what they look like:
I would simply apply sparing amounts of a black silicone sealant, like the one in the link below, which will grip the grill fast while remaining permanently flexible.
Its plus point is that it will allow easy future removal of the grill, and sealant, if necessary.
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/p...nville-black-silicone-sealant-40g-173867.html
Interestingly... my protective grills are different...
That silicon makes sense... so I first lay a bead on the speaker and then lower the cover gently.
How long should I give it to dry? An hour, a day, a forthnight (being English...)...
Here's a shot of the good speakers, that pair still has the protective grills in place:
That silicon makes sense... so I first lay a bead on the speaker and then lower the cover gently.
How long should I give it to dry? An hour, a day, a forthnight (being English...)...
Here's a shot of the good speakers, that pair still has the protective grills in place: