Hey everyone, i have a set of component : DB DRIVE P3 6K 6.5" Pro Audio Midrange Speakers 250 Watts
and a pair of pioneer TS-M800PRO 8 inch midbass speakers
pair of PIONEER TS-B400PRO 4" HIGH EFFICIENCY PRO SERIES BULLET tweeters
pair of crossovers for the pioneers
4 chan amp for the pioneers
and a mono for the sub.
I would like to have the sub play 60 hz and under, the 8's play 60 hz to 500 hz
maybe throw out the bullet tweets. i hear they are too loud.
the front, well yeah those db audio will just be in the front doors.
my goal is to have good bass for rock and roll with out too much thump (keep the sub out of rock and roll music) and have great bass with edm music.
any opinions or advice?
i dont care for a front stage. I am fine with having the music coming from the back as much as from the front.
and a pair of pioneer TS-M800PRO 8 inch midbass speakers
pair of PIONEER TS-B400PRO 4" HIGH EFFICIENCY PRO SERIES BULLET tweeters
pair of crossovers for the pioneers
4 chan amp for the pioneers
and a mono for the sub.
I would like to have the sub play 60 hz and under, the 8's play 60 hz to 500 hz
maybe throw out the bullet tweets. i hear they are too loud.
the front, well yeah those db audio will just be in the front doors.
my goal is to have good bass for rock and roll with out too much thump (keep the sub out of rock and roll music) and have great bass with edm music.
any opinions or advice?
i dont care for a front stage. I am fine with having the music coming from the back as much as from the front.
Key factor will be proper deadening of your doors. You're essentially trying to turn your door into a large sealed enclosure. 8's up front in the doors are awesome IF you can fit them and seal them off nicely. If you cannot turn the door into a sealed box all the cone area in the world will not get you much output below 120hz!
Kickpanels are useful locations for mounting mids and tweets on-axis. They image well and make for more equal distance between your listening position and L and R. Custom kick pods can be had (depending on vehicle) from q-logic (with some deadening they're solid) well worth the money IMO unless you're really handy with fiberglass and have time to concoct your own..
I find those bullet and other "super tweeters" obnoxious, but you may be able to control them with position, gain, EQ, or crossover?
You will want either a powerful processor, an amp with some very advanced crossover options, or get ready to shell out some money in coils, caps, and resistors to make those crossover points.
I suspect if you just use whichever mid you can fit in the door, buy a 100$ pair of 3/4" dome car tweeters (tweeters designed for automotive use generally perform better off-axis) and throw some money and time into door treatments/deadening you'll get where you want to be much easier and cheaper than trying to incorporate all of the stuff you listed.
Not saying you can't get that all to work together but you'll have an uphill battle pulling that off and it multiplies the complexity of getting decent sound.
my .02$
Kickpanels are useful locations for mounting mids and tweets on-axis. They image well and make for more equal distance between your listening position and L and R. Custom kick pods can be had (depending on vehicle) from q-logic (with some deadening they're solid) well worth the money IMO unless you're really handy with fiberglass and have time to concoct your own..
I find those bullet and other "super tweeters" obnoxious, but you may be able to control them with position, gain, EQ, or crossover?
You will want either a powerful processor, an amp with some very advanced crossover options, or get ready to shell out some money in coils, caps, and resistors to make those crossover points.
I suspect if you just use whichever mid you can fit in the door, buy a 100$ pair of 3/4" dome car tweeters (tweeters designed for automotive use generally perform better off-axis) and throw some money and time into door treatments/deadening you'll get where you want to be much easier and cheaper than trying to incorporate all of the stuff you listed.
Not saying you can't get that all to work together but you'll have an uphill battle pulling that off and it multiplies the complexity of getting decent sound.
my .02$
Very few people like a perfectly flat response. Most prefer a bit more bass and sometimes more highs. What is your definition of the best spectrum?
What is the frequency response of the speakers you have facing the direction that they will face in the vehicle (generally off axis -- few speakers produce the same off axis as they do on axis)?
What is the frequency response of the speakers you have facing the direction that they will face in the vehicle (generally off axis -- few speakers produce the same off axis as they do on axis)?
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