how to fit 10 inch driver into 12 inch hole?

dogshome

Member
2010-07-17 8:15 pm
I'm building a pair of econowave style speakers using 10" fane 300w drivers. These should cross nicely with th 1" compression drivers at around 2500hz.

I bought a pair of very cheap pa cabs which happen to be 25 litres and ideal for the drivers in a ported configuration. They are also wide enough to accept the 12" wide horns I want to use.

Only problem is they came with 12" drivers, so the hole is too big.

Speaker is front loaded and has a cloth grille that will cover any sort of dodgy woodwork. But I can't think how best to do this. The cab is 22mm chipboard.
 
Another option, get a Jasper circle jig and make a tight fitting disc to fit inside the current hole, you can glue this in place and it will be perfectly flush with the current baffle. An advantage is that if you do it right you can even make it look nice.


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Here is a box where a 4" was installed into a box that previously had a 7" driver fitted.

MKwT_woofWT-comp.jpg


It has a walnut ring installed in the old hole.

dave
 

dogshome

Member
2010-07-17 8:15 pm
Baffle converters... I like those :)

Visualise.....

I think if I rear mount the new speaker to the flat plate with a new hole in it and then mount the plate to the baffle, that gives me least depth. Or fit a split plate behind the baffle that makes it flush. Or I could just screw a plate on the front if that means the speaker fits behind the grille.

Last option probably strongest if it will fit. Plus it will hide my jigsaw skilz :eek:

The horn is mounted an inch or so in front of the woofer, so the centre's are quite close with the 10" being shallower than the 12.

I'll knock something up and see what happens.
 

Raphbass

Member
2006-12-20 7:03 pm
I had this exact issue, there wasn't enough depth between the front of the baffle and the grille to fit a full-width slab of ply to the front and then fit the driver to the front as well, as the cone would then have been hitting the grille... so I had to get the new piece of baffle into the cab so as to fit it to the back of the baffle. As the cab didn't have any removable panels, I cut the new piece of baffle in two pieces i.e. semi-circles, fed them in and glued them into place behind the baffle making sure the joins between the halves were air-tight. Had to cut an approximation of the new hole so as to get my hands in there, though I could have screwed handles onto the bits just for manoeuvring till the glue was set. Then when the glue was dry I finalised the hole and fitted the driver from the front. Aesthetically it ended up a dog's dinner, but all covered up by black cloth as well as a kick-proof grille.

OTOH I prefer the idea suggested above of filling the hole flush if you can get an accurate enough fit. If the existing hole is a properly cut exact circle you could err on the large side, get it pretty close and just sand/rasp it down to an exact fit. Unless you can reach through the tweeter hole to hold from inside, fit a handle to it or just put some screws in it to hold it by. Another idea is to fit three or four "stoppers", little pieces that you fit to the edges of the existing hole that locate the new piece exactly flush and stop it falling through. I realize that sounds chinese, a diagram would be worth a thousand words...
 
Duct tape... lots and lots of Duct tape. :)

Many speakers use a double thick front baffle for extra strength and vibration reduction. :superman:

I would cut full area 0.75" thick rear baffle board and glue it to the rear of the current front baffle. You can pre-cut the hole for the 10" Fane before you glue. You now have a very solid 2x thick front baffle, and a very solid new screw-in board for the Fanes. To smooth the circular gap that remains, you might find some weather stripping, or "run a bead" of silicone or calk which you can shape with a tool or your finger into a smooth radius.

Naturally if your cabinet already has cross-bracing, this new baffle board shape will need to be adjusted to fit between them.