In working on an SSB/AM/CW receiver in the OH workshop I had to take out the CFL's which were left by the prior owner, and replace with industrial 150W incandescent bulbs.
It's a prosaic issue, and many on this forum do work in RF -- what do you use to light your workshop?
It's a prosaic issue, and many on this forum do work in RF -- what do you use to light your workshop?
You mean because of RF interference/noise?
In that case yes, old style filament lamps are best.
For any other use, LED with diffuser cut off to get bright concentrated light on detailed working area (PCB assembly, speaker reconing, PCB drilling, etc.) or large 105 fluorescent tubes for smooth even light in large areas. (Carpentry, Tolexing, spray painting, cabinet assembly, silkscreening).
4ft. LED lamps. When I was measuring some power supply noise using an LNA I turned them off, but noticed no difference. I'm betting they are very different from manufacturer to manufacturer.
Large 6 x 6 foot windows on corners of the building, my work table is under a window.
LED ring lamp with magnifying lens which is used occasionally in the monsoon.
I do not work after sunset.
LED ring lamp with magnifying lens which is used occasionally in the monsoon.
I do not work after sunset.
Daylight and working till the sun goes down.
Long hours in the summer. 😉
Hugo
Long hours in the summer. 😉
Hugo
I use what RickRay uses. Mine are Home Depot specials and they are quiet; acoustically and as far as I can tell, electromagnetically.
After trying several types of bulbs & fixtures, I found this to be spectacular. An E39 base, 220V, 105 Watt "Grow-light" running at 6400 Kelvin. I modified this reflector/shade assembly to accommodate the E39 base...a single is OK, a pair or trio will be like bringing in the Sun to your workspace.
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It's a 1953 Chevrolet 3100 pickup with an LT-1, 5.7L engine and 4L60E transmission.
95+ CRI daylight panels. I would suggest anyone who wants to use led as lighting, don't go below 95CRI. It really tires out eyes when lower. And don't skimp on the money, lower priced ones have noisy supplies.
If I’m testing a piece of equipment, and I want, absolutely the majority of noise off my lines and out of the air.
I have old-fashioned tungsten lightbulbs in my work room that get turned on when I want silence.
Xtreme case turn off all the circuit breakers in the house , except for the one going to my work room while I’m performing sensitive test.
I have old-fashioned tungsten lightbulbs in my work room that get turned on when I want silence.
Xtreme case turn off all the circuit breakers in the house , except for the one going to my work room while I’m performing sensitive test.
Poorly, I need to give this more thought. A mix of LED, and fluorescent on the bench. I do a lot of SMD work and use a fluorescent ring lamp/magnifier and high CRI led lamp in a old style drafting table lamp. I have been thinking about some LED lamps overhead but had not acted to date.
Natural light in the man cave is pretty limited and I work from mornings into very late evening when I am building and testing something new.
Natural light in the man cave is pretty limited and I work from mornings into very late evening when I am building and testing something new.
A little clarification:
Most of my work is minor repairs, mostly at the factory, so as above.
At home also, a large window next to a table, and many electrical outlets.
So I am not bound by time constraints, and I have a habit of having spares...so never in a rush.
I live in a city with about 300 sunny days, it is a mild winter here, ambient day is about 30 C, goes to 45 or so in summer.
So I rarely need artificial light...
Panel lights with 4000K color temperature can also be used for general illumination, those are fairly diffused, and seem more reliable than LED 'tubelights'.
Most of my work is minor repairs, mostly at the factory, so as above.
At home also, a large window next to a table, and many electrical outlets.
So I am not bound by time constraints, and I have a habit of having spares...so never in a rush.
I live in a city with about 300 sunny days, it is a mild winter here, ambient day is about 30 C, goes to 45 or so in summer.
So I rarely need artificial light...
Panel lights with 4000K color temperature can also be used for general illumination, those are fairly diffused, and seem more reliable than LED 'tubelights'.
I have noticed that when I run my Sparkfun 303D SMD Rework station, usually just to shrink shrink tubing, the lights flicker.
I have a hot air gun and it consumes as much as 1kW and uses chopper based temperature control and any lights on that circuit flicker pretty badly when it is operating.
For a real cheap bright lights, you can Y-adapt a bunch of cheap (Dollar store) LED lamps. These will be limited to 800 lumens each, but 4+ will be fair bright.
Y adapter
https://www.dollartree.com/feature-...845001&cm_mmc=Affiliate-_-DM-_-Banners-_-Mktg
I also use a lamp +2 outlet adapter with two outlet-lamp sockets for a 3-way T lamp. lamp-socket adapter
This is a bit ugly but it's fine for the garage and the basement, and it's cheap.
Note that some cheap dimmable LEDS are strictly linear series string, ie no RFI.
A fancy option is an addressable LED string, but maybe not the brightest light.
Y adapter
I also use a lamp +2 outlet adapter with two outlet-lamp sockets for a 3-way T lamp. lamp-socket adapter
This is a bit ugly but it's fine for the garage and the basement, and it's cheap.
Note that some cheap dimmable LEDS are strictly linear series string, ie no RFI.
A fancy option is an addressable LED string, but maybe not the brightest light.