I think the members making fun of this are really missing the point.
It's not meant as a magical dusting of enclosures...
In my corner of the world, we have something called rubber cement. It is used to seal concrete floors and walls. I used it on my house, and found out that besides sealing everything nicely (which is great for vented, TLs, sealed enclosures), it also has good mechanical dampening. Adding the rubber cement to the walls of an enclosure adds mass and would probably contribute to absorb some vibration.
So, it helps with some vibrations, and it seals any pin holes one could have when assembling the enclosure.
That's it. No magic, no pixie dust, no unicorn tears...
It's not meant as a magical dusting of enclosures...
In my corner of the world, we have something called rubber cement. It is used to seal concrete floors and walls. I used it on my house, and found out that besides sealing everything nicely (which is great for vented, TLs, sealed enclosures), it also has good mechanical dampening. Adding the rubber cement to the walls of an enclosure adds mass and would probably contribute to absorb some vibration.
So, it helps with some vibrations, and it seals any pin holes one could have when assembling the enclosure.
That's it. No magic, no pixie dust, no unicorn tears...
If we could gather quantitative data showing improvements we might begin to move forward with tweaks like this.
99% of posts like this about enclosure damping are no more than a finger in the air and a gut feeling which gets us absolutely nowhere in terms of the physics of the matter, hence my tongue-in-cheek reply to a tongue-in-cheek comment.
Finally, any enclosure requiring subsequent sealing after having been glued together does not bode well regarding the builders skills talents...
99% of posts like this about enclosure damping are no more than a finger in the air and a gut feeling which gets us absolutely nowhere in terms of the physics of the matter, hence my tongue-in-cheek reply to a tongue-in-cheek comment.
Finally, any enclosure requiring subsequent sealing after having been glued together does not bode well regarding the builders skills talents...
I do plan to do some tests at some point, as soon as I finish rebuilding my shop.
And when I do a TL, I always seal the corners, even though I think the enclosure is glued well. It's just a simple thing that adds a layer of security should something happen. TLs are so impacted by tiny holes in the line. It doesn't take much time nor effort, but helps for my peace of mind. 🙂
And when I do a TL, I always seal the corners, even though I think the enclosure is glued well. It's just a simple thing that adds a layer of security should something happen. TLs are so impacted by tiny holes in the line. It doesn't take much time nor effort, but helps for my peace of mind. 🙂
I assume it's an attempt at mass loading with a dense rubbery substance (although I'm not sure that that is an effective way to dampen enclosure panel oscillations), but why tektite (a relatively low density mineral)?
That discussion has been had many times, Both are correct, 2nd can also mean “getting wet”
For our purposes here damp would be the preferred.
dave
I would like to see a link please to make sure you don't mean plastic cement. Rubber cement is very expensive, plastic cement is not.
I know what you guys are doing - because I'm an expert in it myself! 🙂
Seriously though, I got the mock up done and it sounds great. Am I saying it's 100% the thermoelastic paint and Tektite dust?
Yes. Yes I am.
Seriously though, I got the mock up done and it sounds great. Am I saying it's 100% the thermoelastic paint and Tektite dust?
Yes. Yes I am.
My previous posts have dealt with damping, diffusion, deflection and absorption. All within the diy budget.
I've had a couple of chunks for years just sitting in a drawer. It's a fun experiment.
If I had another 100 years, probably mixing damping potions would be included just out of curiosity. Tektite vs cat litter (unused). I have wondered about adjustable length rods for tensioning (tuning) the walls of a cabinet too. Then the internal shape of an enclosure.
Over here, it comes in 5-gallon buckets.
Once applied, it creates a layer of this deadening cement. I discovered it when I was sealing a balcony a few years back. I dropped a bag of screws and the screws were bouncing and ringing on the original cement, but didn't bounce nor made sound when they fell on the layer of that stuff.
Parts Express had a coating that they termed as ceramic. I used it on a medium/large cabinet designed by Troels Gravesen. The entire inside had 3 coats applied, and in one layer, I used it as a constrained layer sort of damping. I can only tell you that these cabinets were quiet as a church mouse, but it was also due to the very thick and varying cabinet walls as much as anything. This stuff was more rubbery and did not dry hard. Wish that I had a way to measure the difference. All I can tell you is that the product is easy to use, dries fast, and probably seals gaps if they exist.
Brittle no stiffness, add normal braces.
Way more effective.
Make a layer thin of concrete or paint by itself.
Snap, bend = does nothing
The concept of reducing cabinet resonance preventing losses.
And the concept of absorption, for response accuracy and driver Q
seems to be completely lost.
Even when people provide " measurements"
The methods often have no relation to the concept they are making up.
Brace line / stuff = all done.
junk thin panels like car doors and panels.
Are difficult to brace, that is why your last hope is to hide the noise. with whatever magic rubber stuff or rebranded roof repair sheets
gets you.
No audible rattle. often only less audible rattle, still has losses.
If your home cabinet has audible rattle, even with no bracing.
You got other problems.
Way more effective.
Make a layer thin of concrete or paint by itself.
Snap, bend = does nothing
The concept of reducing cabinet resonance preventing losses.
And the concept of absorption, for response accuracy and driver Q
seems to be completely lost.
Even when people provide " measurements"
The methods often have no relation to the concept they are making up.
Brace line / stuff = all done.
junk thin panels like car doors and panels.
Are difficult to brace, that is why your last hope is to hide the noise. with whatever magic rubber stuff or rebranded roof repair sheets
gets you.
No audible rattle. often only less audible rattle, still has losses.
If your home cabinet has audible rattle, even with no bracing.
You got other problems.
That would stiffen the panel. Probably best to do inside and out..
Other stuff like fiberglass, carbon fibre, or penetrating epoxy would have similar affects.
Before i discovered plywood, i used ⅝” HDF laminated both sides with plastic laminate (arborte)
dave