wanna to build a good reliable home PS. which can provide up
to say 10A with regulated + & - volts up to say 40V.
i know itsnt that easy project to build ...
but anyone has schematics for a similar PS.?
or even a good design guide?
thanks..
to say 10A with regulated + & - volts up to say 40V.
i know itsnt that easy project to build ...
but anyone has schematics for a similar PS.?
or even a good design guide?
thanks..
C
CryingDragon
that's 400Va,your best bet would be to but a toridal transformer and run the secondarity through a full wave bridge and then into some caps for filtering.
My friend (I did read your other postings and I think I am on your side)
Could you please chAnge that Schmashy, thIng it so hurts my eYes.
I was forced into an 85 year old avatar by one of the grey ones (oldies) and I think that ticks them off way more than banging around, please my eYess 8o)
keep up the good work, but please lower the noise.😀
ps. give them the mirror, the mirror, dude
Could you please chAnge that Schmashy, thIng it so hurts my eYes.
I was forced into an 85 year old avatar by one of the grey ones (oldies) and I think that ticks them off way more than banging around, please my eYess 8o)
keep up the good work, but please lower the noise.😀
ps. give them the mirror, the mirror, dude
deepanger
Loose your anger and I will send your schematics.
What is your local outlet voltage and what are you gona use it for.
Old Man just waiting to talk
Loose your anger and I will send your schematics.
What is your local outlet voltage and what are you gona use it for.
Old Man just waiting to talk
I must apologize for not having a schematic to hand, but I hope this will make enough sense to be of some help.
I would build two 40V psus based on standard regulators - like LM317 - but add a spritely high power, slave bipolar to handle the current - like an MJ15022. LM317 datasheets usually show how to do this. This way you get all the benefits of a sophisticated regulator.
Then just connect the two 40V psus in series.
You only need one, dual-secondary transformer.
BAM
I would build two 40V psus based on standard regulators - like LM317 - but add a spritely high power, slave bipolar to handle the current - like an MJ15022. LM317 datasheets usually show how to do this. This way you get all the benefits of a sophisticated regulator.
Then just connect the two 40V psus in series.
You only need one, dual-secondary transformer.
BAM
ive build my 1st PS. along time ago its +12/-12/+5/-5 3A one
the outlet volt in here is 220 , i just need to build a very good
PS. that can handle as i told b4 about 10A or maybe more current
with regulation upto say 40V. so i can test my upcomings Amp.
projects. (eg. the smallest and the only one i made is a TDA1554
one IC 12v. car amplifier so sure it cannt be properly tested with
my current one (3A Max.) and so on....
the only schematic ive found online is for the LM338K IC regulator
but its 5A, upto 30V and no neg. output (only + and ground)..
here its..
the outlet volt in here is 220 , i just need to build a very good
PS. that can handle as i told b4 about 10A or maybe more current
with regulation upto say 40V. so i can test my upcomings Amp.
projects. (eg. the smallest and the only one i made is a TDA1554
one IC 12v. car amplifier so sure it cannt be properly tested with
my current one (3A Max.) and so on....
the only schematic ive found online is for the LM338K IC regulator
but its 5A, upto 30V and no neg. output (only + and ground)..
here its..
Attachments
#1:
The potentiometer needs to be connected as reostat with wiper and one leg connected or otherwise your output voltage will go to rail-1.25 V when the wiper looses contacts with the track.
#2: Read this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7347
#3
Previous post gave you directions.
/UrSv
The potentiometer needs to be connected as reostat with wiper and one leg connected or otherwise your output voltage will go to rail-1.25 V when the wiper looses contacts with the track.
#2: Read this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7347
#3
Previous post gave you directions.
/UrSv
There are some 10A regulators like LT1038.
The problem is to handle the dissipation if you need a very low voltage at that currents.
The easiest solution is always a variable AC-voltage source (variac) followed by a rectifier and some caps.
But that might be cost intensive if you don´t get it second-hand.
I´ve seen a lot good offers on Ebay but haven´t bought one myself so far.
Maybe you could keep good contact with the repairshop near your place and just take your finished project there and use their variacs?
You´re always welcome in our shop and use ours if you´re in germany 😉
Jens
The problem is to handle the dissipation if you need a very low voltage at that currents.
The easiest solution is always a variable AC-voltage source (variac) followed by a rectifier and some caps.
But that might be cost intensive if you don´t get it second-hand.
I´ve seen a lot good offers on Ebay but haven´t bought one myself so far.
Maybe you could keep good contact with the repairshop near your place and just take your finished project there and use their variacs?
You´re always welcome in our shop and use ours if you´re in germany 😉
Jens
you also want to put a diode across the regulator to allow a path for the caps to discharge (rather than discharging through the regulator.)
deepanger said:
This is not an answer for you.
But if any TUBE guy comes in here (because of your Thread-name)
and wants real high voltage regulator,
here is one alternative.
It can put out 100mA and over 400 volts,
APEX PA88 op-amp in TO3 8-pin
PA88 High Voltage Power Operational Amplifier FEATURES, HIGH VOLTAGE
- 450V (±225V). LOW QUIESCENT CURRENT - 2mA. HIGH OUTPUT CURRENT - 100mA.
Attachments
Before you go any further, calculate how much power your supply will need to dissipate. Take the voltage range (say, 10 to 40V); add about 5 volts overhead; multiply by the current you want (10A). The worst case is when the supply is set to the lowest voltage at the highest amperage.deepanger said:
For these numbers, that's 350 watts. Per rail. The most heat you can pull from a transistor or regulator is probably about 50 watts, so you will need at least 7. Per rail.
You'll also need several large heatsinks. If you can find pictures of a 70 watt Class A amplifier, that will give you a rough idea of the size. Huge. Per rail.
As for schematics, there's a big power supply at www.sound.au.com (project 77) that could be modified to do what you want.
The APEX PA88 is about $100 ea.
and it's SOA just isn't up to discretes -- at least if you want to pull 100ma at 400VDC -- I think the questioner, however, would be OK with an LM317HV, a little more expensive than an LM317, and a Pass transistor to do the heavy lifiting/current limiting etc. and if you don't want to invest in an LM317HV just lift the ground leg by inserting a zener.
and it's SOA just isn't up to discretes -- at least if you want to pull 100ma at 400VDC -- I think the questioner, however, would be OK with an LM317HV, a little more expensive than an LM317, and a Pass transistor to do the heavy lifiting/current limiting etc. and if you don't want to invest in an LM317HV just lift the ground leg by inserting a zener.
The APEX PA88 is about $100 ea.
I had no idea. 😕
seems APEX is nothing for me (or anyone)
Imagine(tm)John Lennon), what we DIY selvers can do with an amount of 1000 swedish crowns (skr)
$100 !!!!!jackinnj said:
I had no idea. 😕
seems APEX is nothing for me (or anyone)
Imagine(tm)John Lennon), what we DIY selvers can do with an amount of 1000 swedish crowns (skr)
in memoria
of course, when you mention Lennon, I have to point out that this week marks the anniversary of his death. seems it 's more important to gen X'r than to those of us who experienced the Fab 4 first hand -- my sisters went to see them live, but I preferred the DC5.
Jack
of course, when you mention Lennon, I have to point out that this week marks the anniversary of his death. seems it 's more important to gen X'r than to those of us who experienced the Fab 4 first hand -- my sisters went to see them live, but I preferred the DC5.
Jack
C
CryingDragon
There ya go,stone
See when people get older alot of them become bitter and look down thier nose at people because they think they know more or have had a harder life and we're "no good young whipper-snappers" (whatever the hell that is),But you,see you have respect for us,you have a good sence of humour and you don't look down on others...keep it up,it's very refreshing.
See when people get older alot of them become bitter and look down thier nose at people because they think they know more or have had a harder life and we're "no good young whipper-snappers" (whatever the hell that is),But you,see you have respect for us,you have a good sence of humour and you don't look down on others...keep it up,it's very refreshing.
deepanger said:
Everything you want is in this thread: "Bench power supply" - use search to get to it.
Jan Didden
thanks all for ur replies..
actually amnt that good in PS. design solutions ,, so theres some
stuff icant understand and may u enlighten me in them..
* whats that dissipation prob. with the low volts, and whats the
range of the volt "being low"?
* whats the "variac" ?
* whats the current consumption for the P3A project (+35,-35v)?
thanx again..
actually amnt that good in PS. design solutions ,, so theres some
stuff icant understand and may u enlighten me in them..
* whats that dissipation prob. with the low volts, and whats the
range of the volt "being low"?
* whats the "variac" ?
* whats the current consumption for the P3A project (+35,-35v)?
thanx again..
deepanger said:
Dropping the voltage anything more than about 10volts is going to result in a MAJOR heat problem if you use linear regulators... With high current loads... ever medium loads.. for that matter, don't use linear, ITS CRAZY!!!
My Power Supplies
These usually go from $19 to $40 on EBay -- HP6129C, HP6130C. The big boy will put out a steady +/- 50V at 5 amps -- Industrial Style!!
The reason for the low price being -- shipping which will give you a heart attack, access to voltages at the rear, and, lastly you need some modest skill at building a programmer as the voltage steps are decimal powers of 2, 2's complement for negative voltages. They are a really good buy -- I've gutted one for an amplifier, but use the others. They don't program over GPIB, but you could use a HP3488a controller and relay board to accomplish this.
These usually go from $19 to $40 on EBay -- HP6129C, HP6130C. The big boy will put out a steady +/- 50V at 5 amps -- Industrial Style!!
The reason for the low price being -- shipping which will give you a heart attack, access to voltages at the rear, and, lastly you need some modest skill at building a programmer as the voltage steps are decimal powers of 2, 2's complement for negative voltages. They are a really good buy -- I've gutted one for an amplifier, but use the others. They don't program over GPIB, but you could use a HP3488a controller and relay board to accomplish this.
Attachments
Re: My Power Supplies
i know that buying any of those commercial or industrial PS. will
be gr8 caz at least it gonna be more reliable than many of those
DIY ones,, but i wanna to build mine! something solid and reliable
,at least ill gain some knowledge and exp. working with hands..
thanks anyway.
does anyone can enlighten me in those points i asked about above..??
jackinnj said:
i know that buying any of those commercial or industrial PS. will
be gr8 caz at least it gonna be more reliable than many of those
DIY ones,, but i wanna to build mine! something solid and reliable
,at least ill gain some knowledge and exp. working with hands..
thanks anyway.
does anyone can enlighten me in those points i asked about above..??
- Status
- Not open for further replies.