I'm buidling a plingh for my Thorens TD-124 and would like to build a power connection into the plinth. I hate dragging wires everytime I move the thing. From an old computer power supply I have this:
Since the TT is only two wires, I won't be using the 3rd wire (I've read of hum problems when trying to do this). The connection on the turntable looks like this:
My original thought was to cut the end from the original cord and solder the wires to the ones on the connector I have which would be mounted on the plinth. Then I realized that to remove the TT itself for any reason would require unsoldering or cutting the wires.
On to plan B: I bought a 2 wire extension cord and will cut a short length with the female end and replace the one attached to the table in the 2nd picture, and then cut a short length from the male end of the extension cord and solder that to the wires from the top picture.
Would this work? Is there a better way?
Since the TT is only two wires, I won't be using the 3rd wire (I've read of hum problems when trying to do this). The connection on the turntable looks like this:
My original thought was to cut the end from the original cord and solder the wires to the ones on the connector I have which would be mounted on the plinth. Then I realized that to remove the TT itself for any reason would require unsoldering or cutting the wires.
On to plan B: I bought a 2 wire extension cord and will cut a short length with the female end and replace the one attached to the table in the 2nd picture, and then cut a short length from the male end of the extension cord and solder that to the wires from the top picture.
Would this work? Is there a better way?
What might be ideal for you is a socket like the one you have there but with spades on the back. Then you can put spade connectors on your cables and unplug them at will.
For safety reasons alone you should ground the conductive parts of the turntable chassis. If you do it right it shouldn't cause any hum but even if you need to mess about with your earthing arrangements a bit you should should still earth the turntable.
For safety reasons alone you should ground the conductive parts of the turntable chassis. If you do it right it shouldn't cause any hum but even if you need to mess about with your earthing arrangements a bit you should should still earth the turntable.
I thought about that -- so I'd really just be making a pass-through. I don't know where I'd put them in the plinth. I've got the male one (pictured) on the outside where my standard AC cable can plug in. The wires from that are now "inside" the plinth. I can't picture where to mount the other one inside. The wires from that one would have to be soldered to the wires sticking through from the one above.
What's unclear in my mind is the difference between the older (Turntable) 2 wire and the modern 3 wire. If I used the 3 wire as shown above, does that 3rd wire just go to a turntable ground?
Yes, connect the green/yellow conductor to the TT chassis. The arm however in this case usually would not be grounded to the chassis but the pre-amplifier only. Experiment to get the lowest hum, but grounding the chassis is good from a safety standpoint..
Interesting that you have the replacement Papst Aussenlaufer motor.. This is actually a 3 phase motor and much smoother operation is theoretically possible with something like a Siemens Micromaster MM410 (6SE6410-2UA11-2AA0) drive which can provide 120V/60Hz 3PH to its windings.
Manual here: http://cache.automation.siemens.com/dnl/jMzOTI2MQAA_8878978_HB/MM410_OPI_English_A1.pdf
Note that you need to get one of the several available control panels to program and use this unit. This model was discontinued fairly recently and is often available new or good used on eBay for comparatively short money.
If I had succeeded in scoring one of these motors I would get this drive, should you ever decide to you want an original E50 motor I've got a spare and would happily trade.
Umm, what's that little green chicklet capacitor connected to? Potential safety hazard as they usually do not have sufficient voltage rating to withstand transients if as I suspect that is across the power switch. Replace with an x cap for safety, available from Mouser or Digi-Key.
See my TD-124 thread for other potentially useful information here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/174341-restoring-improving-thorens-td-124-mkii.html
Interesting that you have the replacement Papst Aussenlaufer motor.. This is actually a 3 phase motor and much smoother operation is theoretically possible with something like a Siemens Micromaster MM410 (6SE6410-2UA11-2AA0) drive which can provide 120V/60Hz 3PH to its windings.
Manual here: http://cache.automation.siemens.com/dnl/jMzOTI2MQAA_8878978_HB/MM410_OPI_English_A1.pdf
Note that you need to get one of the several available control panels to program and use this unit. This model was discontinued fairly recently and is often available new or good used on eBay for comparatively short money.
If I had succeeded in scoring one of these motors I would get this drive, should you ever decide to you want an original E50 motor I've got a spare and would happily trade.
Umm, what's that little green chicklet capacitor connected to? Potential safety hazard as they usually do not have sufficient voltage rating to withstand transients if as I suspect that is across the power switch. Replace with an x cap for safety, available from Mouser or Digi-Key.
See my TD-124 thread for other potentially useful information here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/174341-restoring-improving-thorens-td-124-mkii.html
No, what I mean is get another EEC socket, like the one you have, but with 4mm spades on the back. So your 'kettle' lead still just plugs into the back of the plinth but the power and earth wires inside the deck would be connected to the rear of the socket with spade connectors rather than being soldered on.
OH!! Like this?
In my searching around, I found this, which might be easier yet to build into the plinth:
Unfortunately, the picture is just a link to a Thorens underside I found on the internet. I did notice the Papst, but it was the best picture showing the where the power cord was connected.
I'll check it out. This Thorens has been a wonderful thing to explore!!! I had some work done on it (making parts move, oil, that kind of stuff) but maybe someday I'll do much more to it. That's a great thread.
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