Help with 3 way design!!!

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Donny14

Member
2016-02-16 2:53 pm
Hi everyone,

This is my first 3 way build! But have build other speakers before.. I tend to go all out when I do projects and I need help designing my cross over!!

In total there are 5 drivers per speaker (all Dayton Audio).

Tweeter: 1x (RS28F-4 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter 4 ohm)
Mid Range: 1x (RS125-8 5" Reference Woofer 8ohm)
1x (RS150-8 6" Reference Woofer 8ohm)
Woofer: 2x (RS180-8 7" Reference Woofer 8ohm)

My set up is to run the Mids in parralel, for a load of 4ohms... And the same for the Woofers, for a load of 4ohms! In result, it will end up with 3 loads of 4ohms...

I was wondering what you guys suggest I put the crossover points at? I was thinking 500/4000hz. I was thinking this way, the mids will not be playing anything that they are not intended for, and still have room for some signal that gets through, and will not distorte! The bass will be tight, and not overly loud, since I plan on building a subwoofer in the future to go with the set. And the tweeter is well able to play down to 1200hz... So I have no worries for the tweeter capabilities! Any ways...

What type of crossover do you recomend? And at what crossover points would be optimal for this design?

Please comment and tell me what you think!!!
Thanks
 
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Donny14

Member
2016-02-16 2:53 pm
Thanks for the links!!! I have already cut the boards and all and am fairly advanced in the actual speaker enclosure! So its really to late to look back if you know what i mean lol!! And my amp is a Kenwood vr-6060 that i use in stereo mode. Seems to work fairly well! But i also have a vintage Vector Research vr-7000! Wich is a fairly nice amp.
 
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Donny14

Member
2016-02-16 2:53 pm
picowallspeaker said:
As Sreten used to say: You don't have any clue :eek:
Click to expand...

Haha i know... Lol!!! This is only my first 3 way build ever!! Ive built only fullrange speakers before!! Thats why im here lol!! Im actually a woodworker, that is passionated by electronics and high quality sound!! Thats what got me into this!! But still i am gaining knowledge and experiece with crossovers and have alot to still learn!
 
Zuhl

Zuhl

Member
2011-05-28 10:17 am
Sheffield, UK
If you haven't designed crossovers before the you do have a lot to learn. Your first job will be to measure the drive units' response in the cabinet. Once you have frd and zma files you can load them into something like x-sim. Once you have tailored the response, matched your ideal roll off and got your phase and time alignment sorted, then you can start putting crossovers together.

Sounds easy doesn't it...

If you want the hard work done for you and you still want Dayton drivers try this: Zaph|Audio - ZDT3.5
 
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Donny14

Member
2016-02-16 2:53 pm
jReave said:
Ok, so are you actually building a 3-way MTMWW with 2 different mids, the RS125 and the RS150, both 8ohm?
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Yes thats my plan:)
Its just a matter of designing my crossover, to adapt it to the drivers I have! I was going to buy an off the shelf crossover but figured it would be a sin to put those in a pair of 2000$ speakers!! So.. Yah im fairly advanced in the build. And really need help with the crossover!! Cuz i really want to make the best one i can to compliment the speakers!
 
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jReave

Member
2012-10-30 4:34 pm
Yikes! :eek:

Just so you know, there are reasons why that is not a very good idea.

Can you change the design to accommodate either 2 x RS125 or 2 x RS150?

If not, you may be in luck because the FR and impedance of those 2 drivers are in fact very similar and it may be possible, emphasis on maybe, to make them work together.

Understand that the best way to design the xo is from in-cabinet measurements, as has already been noted. However, simulations alone can usually get you close if the drivers' specs are reliably accurate which Dayton's tend to be.

If you want anyone to touch this one, you are going to have to post your front baffle dimensions with driver positions clearly indicated. It'll help too to know if the mids are in 1 chamber or 2 and what the net internal volumes are in either case.
 
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Donny14

Member
2016-02-16 2:53 pm
Ooo fiew!! Thanks!! Ok.. Since the baffle wholes are already cut and the internal chambers are already assembled and glued.. Im going to have to stick with it!! Lol but here is the dimensions! The 5" mid has its own sealed enclosure that has a total volume of 120in cube. (0.07ft cube) And the 6" mid has exactly 242in cube (0.14ft cube)

The 2 mids are 6 3/4 inches appart from center to center.
Baffle size is 3 3/4 for the 5" mid (rs125)
Baffle size is 4 7/8 for the 6" mid (rs150)

Fot the enclosure i followed precisely wht they recommended on the website!
 
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Donny14

Member
2016-02-16 2:53 pm
jReave said:
Yikes! :eek:

Just so you know, there are reasons why that is not a very good idea.

Can you change the design to accommodate either 2 x RS125 or 2 x RS150?

If not, you may be in luck because the FR and impedance of those 2 drivers are in fact very similar and it may be possible, emphasis on maybe, to make them work together.

Understand that the best way to design the xo is from in-cabinet measurements, as has already been noted. However, simulations alone can usually get you close if the drivers' specs are reliably accurate which Dayton's tend to be.

If you want anyone to touch this one, you are going to have to post your front baffle dimensions with driver positions clearly indicated. It'll help too to know if the mids are in 1 chamber or 2 and what the net internal volumes are in either case.
Click to expand...

Thank you really much!! I appreciate your guidance!! And I will be posting pics to show what they look like! Or a link to a video that I made showing to process took to make them!
 
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jReave

Member
2012-10-30 4:34 pm
Donny14 said:
Waaw ok!! Considering i made the enclosures all precisely to the specifactions on the website.. Like the volume is exactly what they suggest.. Can i use the information that they provide to design the crossover?
Click to expand...

link? You mean someone actually recommended this design?

And yes, pics will help.

And I'm afraid I was looking at the old specs for those drivers. The newer ones show a larger difference between them which will make things probably a little more complicated. could still be workable though.
 
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