Hi, I have 1problema in the repair of the stage, I let a friend, and I returned it burned ... I changed the following parts: feeding 8mosfet (from Q5 to Q12) 6mosfet output (Q104 to Q106 and Q110 to Q112) associated with resistance MOSFET supply (R84, R100, etc.), the U14, the U21, Q17 , Q19, Q20, Q21, Q120, D25 and finally R21 ... when connected, nothing happens, nothing works, nothing is heated, there is high tension in the wire strands, one is 13v positive and negative, respectively, with respect to ground, any ideas? appreciate it greatly.
Precisely, where did you measure the ±13v?
If you don't have at least 70v DC across the red and black twisted pair of wires, post the DC voltage on the SG3526. Place the black meter probe on the amplifier's ground terminal. Place the red meter probe on the point where you need to measure the voltage. Copy and paste this list into your reply.
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
Pin 15:
Pin 16:
Pin 17:
Pin 18:
If you don't have at least 70v DC across the red and black twisted pair of wires, post the DC voltage on the SG3526. Place the black meter probe on the amplifier's ground terminal. Place the red meter probe on the point where you need to measure the voltage. Copy and paste this list into your reply.
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
Pin 15:
Pin 16:
Pin 17:
Pin 18:
Hi Perry, thanks for treat me well, 13voltios, v 12.8 or 13.2 are not exactly 13v, are what give me a car battery, which is what I have to prove it. This voltage gives it to me putting the probe tester negative, mass of the stage and the positive lead to the red wire HV + stage, then I get +13 v and if I put the same positive lead to the black wire HV-then I da-13v. when I try with both ends of the tester directly on the HV + and HV-, me da v. 0.05 No current rail I have no point of the plate ... As you can control the tension on the pins of the UC3526. A greeting.
forgiveness, perry, the measurement that I have commented before on the red and black wires on the stage were the tip of the positive test, the positive stage, and always gave me positive volts. (between the red wire and black is 0v.) I have already tensions: pin1:4,95 pin2:0 pin3:4,21 pin4:4,63 pin5:4,96 pin6:0 pin7:0 pin8:4,54 pin9:3,63 pin10:4,25 pin11:0 pin12:4,03 pin13:0 pin14:11,38 pin15:0 pin16:0 pin17:11,38 pin18:4,95
Last edited:
Pin 1: 4,95
Pin 2: 0
Pin 3: 4,21
Pin 4: 4,63
Pin 5: 4,96
Pin 6: 0
Pin 7: 0
Pin 8: 4,54
Pin 9: 3,63
Pin 10: 4,25
Pin 11: 0
Pin 12: 4,03
Pin 13: 0
Pin 14: 11,38
Pin 15: 0
Pin 16: 0
Pin 17: 11,38
Pin 18:4,95
Pin 2: 0
Pin 3: 4,21
Pin 4: 4,63
Pin 5: 4,96
Pin 6: 0
Pin 7: 0
Pin 8: 4,54
Pin 9: 3,63
Pin 10: 4,25
Pin 11: 0
Pin 12: 4,03
Pin 13: 0
Pin 14: 11,38
Pin 15: 0
Pin 16: 0
Pin 17: 11,38
Pin 18:4,95
Remove R34 from the circuit. Does the amp power up?
Be careful, the amp may draw excessive current. Have all transistors clamped to the heatsink and insert a 15 amp fuse in the B+ line.
Be careful, the amp may draw excessive current. Have all transistors clamped to the heatsink and insert a 15 amp fuse in the B+ line.
Hi Perry, really is so important that the chassis are connected to the drain of the mosfet? I have attached to the aluminum chassis which originally comes threaded screw to the chassis, but the mosfet encapsulated, are not in contact with the plate .... well, I've removed r34, and when connected, (2segundos only because I hear that something is burning) if I have between red and black wires 73.6 v, but turns on the LED protection, and as I said before, is heard whistle a little suspicious of any piece that will burn (I think) where I?
Post the DC voltage on all legs of U21. Place the black meter probe on the amplifier's ground terminal. Place the red meter probe on the point where you need to measure the voltage.
U21
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
U21
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
U21
Pin 1: -8,52
Pin 2: 7,94
Pin 3: -9,05
Pin 4: -9,93
Pin 5: 4,98
Pin 6: from 4 up to 7.05
Pin 7: -8,55
Pin 8: 9,90
Pin 1: -8,52
Pin 2: 7,94
Pin 3: -9,05
Pin 4: -9,93
Pin 5: 4,98
Pin 6: from 4 up to 7.05
Pin 7: -8,55
Pin 8: 9,90
"but the r34 is out of the plate? and the protection LED still on? I connect a speaker, and input signal? Thanks in advance.
If there is no significant DC across the speaker terminals, you can connect a speaker to see if it will produce audio.
R34 has nothing to do with the protection LED.
Have all transistors/insulators clamped to the heatsink before you test it for output.
R34 has nothing to do with the protection LED.
Have all transistors/insulators clamped to the heatsink before you test it for output.
Congratulations Perry! another case solved! only the small matter of protection LED, which turns off after 2 seconds ....¿? for the rest, good power and good bass (sub RFR3412) a question, what kind of magic does have removed the r34? good, if not tell me, do not worry, this is considered professional secrecy, for you are a professional from head to foot! I will be eternally grateful, thank you very much, and I wish you to keep so many more years. Greetings.
With R34 out of the circuit, there is no synchronization between the audio and power supply oscillators. This can lead to noise (sounds like someone tuning a short wave radio). Install a 1000 ohm resistor in place of the original 0 ohm resistor for R34 and the amp will be synchronized again.
hello, and install the strength you told me, and it does not sound the sound of radio wave, but ..... Now, it seems to overheat (last 5 minutes) the Q13, 14.15, and 16. Is this normal? stage can operate for long periods of time without melting the pieces?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.