Help needed for designing a (smart) outdoor speaker

Hello!
I want to build a outdoor speaker for my pool area and since i have never designed any speaker before I want to ask for Tips.
First my criterias:
  • Cheap (50-75€, the lower the better) since i only need the case and an amp board
  • using components I already own (drivers, mainboard, power supply)
  • buildable with a jigsaw, hand router and 3d printer
  • Weatherproof since it will be hanged on a wall outdoor
The drivers I own are two 12,5cm Nokia LPB130 and a 16,5 cm Canton 11427 (thats the only number on that thing?!?!).
As a Amp i plan to oder this one since it is cheap, provides 2+1 and is capable of accepting 12V, which would be provided by the computers power supply. This should be enough since the computer will draw less than 50W and the power supply is able to output 260W@12V.
The afformentioned Computer is a Atom D525 powered board which will run linux with spotifyd and an upnp renderer for recieving music from multiple clients.
The case will be built out of MDF coated with a wood sealant and additional roofing felt ontop of the roof. Brackets for mounting the electronics will be made with a 3d printer

My Case idea is a box on the wall with an angeled roof, front and bottom for water drainage and minimal risk for water entry. The bottom has three holes. one for air intake, one for air outtake and one for a pipe for the power cable.

I know this will not be the best sounding speaker in the world, but i only want something that does not require charging and is quality wise comperable to a bluetooth speaker in this price class and louder than it.

My primary questions are:
is this idea doable?
Is my Case Idea feasable?
do i need Holes between the Speaker chambers and Electronic chamber (apart from holes for the cables)?
do i even need seperate Chambers?

Below are some pictures of the case i modeled in blender (the base plate on the wall is 50cm*50cm)
overview.png
side.png
top.png
side 2.png
 
The design Is perfect, the holes in the bottom suggest two ducts for bass reflex operation. Ideally you would not want the electronics to be within the speaker enclosure. Also, PSUs designed for PCs might not 'interface' well with audio, but that is a remote chance...I'm talking about RF hash in the lines or Whatever.
Use a weather - proof 6 poles connect and make a separate amp/PSU/ receiver
I would focus more on the speaker idea and design.
 
Thank you!
I would prefer to have the electronics in the same chassis, but i could add a thin sheet of metal between the speakers to prevent interference if this is the issue. If the issue is someting else i could split the case in two parts, one for the speaker and one for the electronics, with only the base plate connecting them.
Another option would be to put the Electronics in a shed for a pump ~10m away.

The duct is a great idea! I will try to include them. Any recommentations for diameter? And should i add them just for the 16,5cm driver or also for the smaller ones?

Since i do not want to spend a lot of money i would prefer to not buy a new power supply, but i will keep your tip aside incase i have issues with interfearance noise or similiar.
 
Is the speaker going under something else for protection (overhang, covered porch, etc.)? The design on its own seems inadequate to protect the drivers from driven rain. If the Nokia ones are for car use, they may be OK. I'm not sure about the Canton. There are waterproof drivers at reasonable prices, so longer term they might be desirable. You could always retrofit with those if the ones you have wind up with water damage.

You probably want to include a drip edge feature in your enclosure's built-in overhang.

1707674229913.png



Separate enclosures for the drivers is optimal, but if you aren't expecting hi-fi performance you can probably get away with them all in one large box.
 
Is the speaker going under something else for protection (overhang, covered porch, etc.)? The design on its own seems inadequate to protect the drivers from driven rain. If the Nokia ones are for car use, they may be OK. I'm not sure about the Canton. There are waterproof drivers at reasonable prices, so longer term they might be desirable. You could always retrofit with those if the ones you have wind up with water damage.
Thank you!
I will add the drip edge in the overhang. There is no additional Roof above the speaker.
Since i got those drivers basically for free (in a huge box full of stuff that cost me 2€) and they are unused since i got them i will try them since it would not be a huge loss if they break.


The holes for the fans will of course be covered with a mesh to prevent animal entry i just didnt model it in blender!
 
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