I've been looking for an amp that sounds warm but at a low price. I've been thinking of getting an old amp that would have to be cleaned and recapped. I have soldering experience but it would be first time I'll be doing something like this.
I've been looking around at what's for sale for €100 or less and these are my options:
- Onkyo A-7 (€100)
- Rotel RA-314 (€50)
- Marantz 2215 (€90) (been in an attic for 10 years, owner tried to test it but has a blown fuse)
- Marantz PM325 (€10) (doesn't work)
- Technics SU-V5 (€75)
- Harman Kardon HK6500 (€50) (one channel doesn't work sometimes, noisy when it does, easy fix?)
- Kenwood KA2500 (€15)
- Sony TA-F4A (€20)
- Sanyo DCA-611 (€50)
Any good ones to pick from here? The reason I don't want to spend more than €100 is so I don't feel too bad if I screw something up.
I've been looking around at what's for sale for €100 or less and these are my options:
- Onkyo A-7 (€100)
- Rotel RA-314 (€50)
- Marantz 2215 (€90) (been in an attic for 10 years, owner tried to test it but has a blown fuse)
- Marantz PM325 (€10) (doesn't work)
- Technics SU-V5 (€75)
- Harman Kardon HK6500 (€50) (one channel doesn't work sometimes, noisy when it does, easy fix?)
- Kenwood KA2500 (€15)
- Sony TA-F4A (€20)
- Sanyo DCA-611 (€50)
Any good ones to pick from here? The reason I don't want to spend more than €100 is so I don't feel too bad if I screw something up.
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Thanks, I'd love to start with something easy like that, but I can't find that amp anywhere in Belgium.
Kenwood KA-2200. You will be surprised how good is it.
JVC A-9X is extraordinary too.
JVC A-9X is extraordinary too.
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The Sony 🙂 Its got nice meters 😀
(I tend to look at cosmetics on anything like this... if it was a demic then I'd pass)
(I tend to look at cosmetics on anything like this... if it was a demic then I'd pass)
I'd avoid any blown fuse units and / or anything with Sanyo output devices.
noisy intermittents are usually fixed by reflowing connectors. edit> although I found leaking transistors to be the cause too, on less 1/10.
find schematics before making offer would be helpful.
other than that I would lean for heavier = better esp for low ohm / eff. speakers
noisy intermittents are usually fixed by reflowing connectors. edit> although I found leaking transistors to be the cause too, on less 1/10.
find schematics before making offer would be helpful.
other than that I would lean for heavier = better esp for low ohm / eff. speakers
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Thanks, guys. I agree the Sony looks great, but I'm tempted by the Onkyo A-7 as well, seems to be an underrated beast from what I read.
Anyone know about the Rotel RA-314? Was that a budget amp at the time?
Anyone know about the Rotel RA-314? Was that a budget amp at the time?
May I suggest something truly worthwhile like maybe a G.A.S. Son of Ampzilla? It'll knock your socks off!
Hi,
The Sony is the dinky looking one. Cheap and easy to move on.
The Onkyo should be more worthwhile, but its a lot more cost
and TBH past its sell by date. Some great features, like dual
phono inputs, switchable frequency tone controls, tape dubbing
etc. that are of no real interest to most people nowadays.
I-pod dock and the Sony, now that's a different matter.
If you want a really seriously good old amplifier, research Technics.
The Sandman type Class A amplifiers (with variable voltage rails),
cost an arm and a leg new, but now go for no more than much more
mundane amplifiers of the period. They were good but very expensive.
I found one for friend at a good price, he admits it sounds very
nice. Needless to say, if it ain't bust, don't fix it, and I didn't.
rgds, sreten.
The Sony is the dinky looking one. Cheap and easy to move on.
The Onkyo should be more worthwhile, but its a lot more cost
and TBH past its sell by date. Some great features, like dual
phono inputs, switchable frequency tone controls, tape dubbing
etc. that are of no real interest to most people nowadays.
I-pod dock and the Sony, now that's a different matter.
If you want a really seriously good old amplifier, research Technics.
The Sandman type Class A amplifiers (with variable voltage rails),
cost an arm and a leg new, but now go for no more than much more
mundane amplifiers of the period. They were good but very expensive.
I found one for friend at a good price, he admits it sounds very
nice. Needless to say, if it ain't bust, don't fix it, and I didn't.
rgds, sreten.
Never had a transistor explode but I did have to replace input diff amps/offset issues. I have an example of every model except Godzilla. They are fabulous amps. But I do recall the first gen Ampzilla having melt down problems. They fixed that early on before the Son came along which is the best sounding of the lot except for the GAS500. That was the end of their line. Soon after G.A.S. was no more. Until of course James B introduced the more recent Spread Spectrum line.
The - Harman Kardon HK6500 ! Real low THD LIN with TO-264 outputs
70-80w 8R with lots of headroom.
All discrete - easy to fix and upgrade.
OS
I agree with ostripper. From a performance standpoint, I would definitely go with the HK.
But you wanted warm sound, and this one is most likely super neutral. It's also a bit boring, visually.
But you wanted warm sound, and this one is most likely super neutral. It's also a bit boring, visually.
Could I suggest maybe a NAD 3020 to learn on - they're easy to find, and despite being 'built down' to a budget, they're straightforward to work on, and offer above average audio performance, not necessarily 'warm' but very musical - there's also lots of detailed guidance available online, e.g., check out some of Leesonic's detailed (NAD 3020 related) threads on Audiokarma.
Not the most glamorous option, but in the best case, you'll end up with a very nice sounding amp, in the worst case, a bunch of NAD 3020 spares, probably worth as much as the amp cost...
Not the most glamorous option, but in the best case, you'll end up with a very nice sounding amp, in the worst case, a bunch of NAD 3020 spares, probably worth as much as the amp cost...
I'm not getting any reaction from the seller about the Sony amp unfortunately. The HKs may be too neutral and too much power (I like low level listening). NAD 3020 is nowhere to be found right now. I think I'm going with the Rotel RA-314, I've read some very positive things about it and it looks great.
As for replacing the electrolytics: would it be okay to use Nichicon UPW/UHE (8000h load life at 105°) for PSU and Panasonic FR (5000h load life at 105°) for everything else? Or are there much better options at a similar or slightly higher cost? Rubycon ZL for signal perhaps? As far as I know the original caps are mostly Elnas.
As for replacing the electrolytics: would it be okay to use Nichicon UPW/UHE (8000h load life at 105°) for PSU and Panasonic FR (5000h load life at 105°) for everything else? Or are there much better options at a similar or slightly higher cost? Rubycon ZL for signal perhaps? As far as I know the original caps are mostly Elnas.
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Hi,
A used Pioneer A-300X costs half the price of a NAD 3020,
and utterly slaughters it too. Build quality is at least twice
as good, and fabulous for the going rate of ~ £50 used.
Its my favourite budget amplifier. They don't need rebuilding.
Basically a power amp and passive preamp with phono input.
rgds, sreten.
A used Pioneer A-300X costs half the price of a NAD 3020,
and utterly slaughters it too. Build quality is at least twice
as good, and fabulous for the going rate of ~ £50 used.
Its my favourite budget amplifier. They don't need rebuilding.
Basically a power amp and passive preamp with phono input.
rgds, sreten.
"Too neutral" ?? Is this not what a solid state amp is all about ?
"Wire with gain " ?
The rotel (below) is a lo-fi " garage amp" compared to the HK -
wires all over the place and a lot of high resistance old school rotary switches.
edit - if hum and hiss is "not neutral" ... to each his own ?
second pix - schema. current sourced LIN amp ,as well (neutral) but a lame design
non class A driver stage and a "starved" power supply.
OS
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