I've been reworking a crossover on a pair of EPI loudspeaker. They use a single capacitor and resistor as a crossover. I tried some Bennic film caps to replace the old Callins electrolytic but I felt the film caps were too bright. I have liked using Muse ES caps. I tried a Muse ES and I like the results, but there is a tiny bit of attenuation of the upper treble and I thought I'd try a shunting experient. I have never used a bypass capacitor or know how to do it. Could someone help me choose the value of a bypass cap? My crossover cap value for the Muse ES is 10uf 50v. Someone has recommended a Sonicap film cap as working well acoustically with the Muse, but I'm not sure what a value to use. Thank you for your help!
0.1 uF film foil Dayton bypass cap from Parts Express. Or, better yet, just replace the original NPE with a new Bennic NPE. It should last at least another 15 yrs or so.
Is the voltage critical? I guess I need a 50w. Correct? Thanks for your help!
The uF of bypass is relative to the total value. 1-3% of the total is usually a good place to stay, so 0.1uF for a 10uF cap is ideal.
I'd suggest you try the Mundorf MKP line as your prime cap first. Lots of low level detail without any exaggeration in the treble. Warm. Clarity ESA's are even darker.
Voltage matters, in that you want your cap to be significantly larger than the maximum amplifier voltage. At least 20% higher. I believe 63V is the 150 Watt mark or so. Film caps are usually no less than 250V so it's hard to go wrong.
Best,
Erik
I'd suggest you try the Mundorf MKP line as your prime cap first. Lots of low level detail without any exaggeration in the treble. Warm. Clarity ESA's are even darker.
Voltage matters, in that you want your cap to be significantly larger than the maximum amplifier voltage. At least 20% higher. I believe 63V is the 150 Watt mark or so. Film caps are usually no less than 250V so it's hard to go wrong.
Best,
Erik
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