I would also use other drivers i think for a high end 4 way with a 18" woofer, i would use pro audio drivers, not hifi. When used right they are more fit for the job. I don't like that accuton, or accuton in general. They are very resonant and brittle drivers that are way overpriced i think. And i know nobody who uses them at all.
sub (30-90hz): Faital 18XL1800
Midbass (90-300): Faital 12PR330 (could fit your project also).
mid (300-3000): Beyma 8MI100
treble (3000-20000): Faital HF10AK compression driver in a XT1086 horn
Crossover with dsp, amps all matched to drivers and needs. Ncore based amps probally and MiniDSP Flex 8 as dsp
sub (30-90hz): Faital 18XL1800
Midbass (90-300): Faital 12PR330 (could fit your project also).
mid (300-3000): Beyma 8MI100
treble (3000-20000): Faital HF10AK compression driver in a XT1086 horn
Crossover with dsp, amps all matched to drivers and needs. Ncore based amps probally and MiniDSP Flex 8 as dsp
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Ditto, but my driver selection would likely be different, but similar, based on my preferences and experience. And whether I was building with drivers on hand (I own a lot) or starting from a clean sheet.
Hi Waxx,
Thanks for the input. After reading all of the responses regarding accuton here, I believe your feelings are shared by others as well.
Why pro drivers only, if I may ask?
Cheers,
Konrad
I've got that exact model Accuton in a pair of old 2-ways + mono sub. Here's my best advice (for me) if I had to re-use / build from scratch with them today:
-Carefully remove the grill, so as to be able to attach a wave guide.
-Print / carve / somehow obtain a wave guide that sits flush and does a good job of minimizing diffraction. Carving from wood with an angle grinder and sand paper attachments works for me, but YMMV and you may have different needs re: finishing or dimensional accuracy.
-Power them with a class-A amplifier, preferably current output. But even an air core inductor in series will bring up the output impedance of a class D amp, and then they can be EQ'd actively.
-Use a hack saw to remove the plastic rear chamber. See if the acoustic impedance can be smoothed out by replacing any cheap foam gaskets next to the magnet vent with putty shaped into a small rear horn. My C12's had bucking magnets that were off-centre by several mm. I don't know if making the enclosure any bigger would actually help, but you can experiment and pad it with medical cotton. I've heard that some people remove the ferrofluid, but you'd have to do your own research.
-Carefully remove the grill, so as to be able to attach a wave guide.
-Print / carve / somehow obtain a wave guide that sits flush and does a good job of minimizing diffraction. Carving from wood with an angle grinder and sand paper attachments works for me, but YMMV and you may have different needs re: finishing or dimensional accuracy.
-Power them with a class-A amplifier, preferably current output. But even an air core inductor in series will bring up the output impedance of a class D amp, and then they can be EQ'd actively.
-Use a hack saw to remove the plastic rear chamber. See if the acoustic impedance can be smoothed out by replacing any cheap foam gaskets next to the magnet vent with putty shaped into a small rear horn. My C12's had bucking magnets that were off-centre by several mm. I don't know if making the enclosure any bigger would actually help, but you can experiment and pad it with medical cotton. I've heard that some people remove the ferrofluid, but you'd have to do your own research.
Now, Abstract, that's what I call DIY 😀
As for the waveguide, Alex already suggested this approach. I have both, CNC and 3D printer so putting something together would not be an issue.
As for the remaining mods suggested, these are 1k worth of drivers, so Id rather sell them to someone with more experience and steady hands😉
Cheers
As for the waveguide, Alex already suggested this approach. I have both, CNC and 3D printer so putting something together would not be an issue.
As for the remaining mods suggested, these are 1k worth of drivers, so Id rather sell them to someone with more experience and steady hands😉
Cheers
If you start using 18" drivers, you want drivers that match those in sensivity, and those are in general pro audio drivers. They are often as good as expensive hifi drivers, and when used right (so in a hifi setup) often a match for them. This on the condition that you use higher end pro drivers like Faital & Beyma (two easy to get local brands in Europe), but JBL, B&C, 18Sound, BMS, Radian, some models of Emminence & Fane are in general in the same league (depending on the model). Other brands may also (i don't know them all good enough). The difference with pro audio is how you use those (alignment, amps, how loud and how you program the dsp/make the analog filter for them), not the drivers themselves. They are build with the same physics and math as hifi drivers, and are not that different on engineering as some think.
I mix and mingle them all the time for hifi, mostly those of Faital and Beyma altough. Originally there was also no difference, the infamous JBL D130 15" woofer, designed and used in many hifi speakers, but also the woofer of choice for big pa systems in the 1950's to the 1970's. It's the woofer that set JBL on top of the market when released in 1948 and showed that James B Lansing did not need Altec Lansing (his old company that he had to sell after mismanagment) to be a genius. Idem with it's precestors the Altec 515 and 416 models. Originally made for theaters, but they are now mainly used in hifi systems.
For a decent midbass, my goto units are
8" B&C 8PE21, 8NDL51, Eminence Beta 8A
For larger midbass, B&C 12MH32, Eminence Kappalite 3012, 3012LF, Kappa Pro 12A, Delta Pro 12A
For 18" sub on a budget I really like the B&C 18PZB100 and Lavoce SAF184.03
Just recently I discovered the 6" SB Acoustics 6MW150D midbass. This 94 dB/W driver does alot of things well and is a bargain at $90. It has a huge 2" fiberglass former VC and shorting rings. I've used this driver in a few designs and its big strength is in the 100 - 1000 hz range, but it also can be used as a woofer in smaller 2 way ported systems from 70 hz crossed up to 2.5k. It also works great in FLH applications.
A very underrated driver is the Eminence Beta 8a. It can reproduce some of the cleanest, most natural sounding mids I've heard at any price. A remarkably cheap stamped basket driver that blows most other cone mids out of the water. It doesn't look anything like the way it sounds. A true sleeper, even in a small 2 way. In most cases you can get away with just a series inductor. It rolls off so smoothly up top at 4k, you can almost run it wide open with a Selenium ST200 HF driver to build a cheap 2 way that will put many other smaller 2 ways to shame.
8" B&C 8PE21, 8NDL51, Eminence Beta 8A
For larger midbass, B&C 12MH32, Eminence Kappalite 3012, 3012LF, Kappa Pro 12A, Delta Pro 12A
For 18" sub on a budget I really like the B&C 18PZB100 and Lavoce SAF184.03
Just recently I discovered the 6" SB Acoustics 6MW150D midbass. This 94 dB/W driver does alot of things well and is a bargain at $90. It has a huge 2" fiberglass former VC and shorting rings. I've used this driver in a few designs and its big strength is in the 100 - 1000 hz range, but it also can be used as a woofer in smaller 2 way ported systems from 70 hz crossed up to 2.5k. It also works great in FLH applications.
A very underrated driver is the Eminence Beta 8a. It can reproduce some of the cleanest, most natural sounding mids I've heard at any price. A remarkably cheap stamped basket driver that blows most other cone mids out of the water. It doesn't look anything like the way it sounds. A true sleeper, even in a small 2 way. In most cases you can get away with just a series inductor. It rolls off so smoothly up top at 4k, you can almost run it wide open with a Selenium ST200 HF driver to build a cheap 2 way that will put many other smaller 2 ways to shame.
That's good to know. I opted for a Lavoce 12" mid-bass because they were less than half the price, but a Beta 12a or Deltalite II were high on the list for their midrange-friendly cone mass and voice coil height.
I dont want to go off topic but what got me interested years ago at London Heathrow show and then other ones at CES in Vegas "The Show" made by Overkill Audio and they were designed using the principal described in these DIY threads .... The speakers sounded amazing but were $$$$$ big! https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/driver-behaviour-pistonic-or-ocillation.142467/
and https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/drivers-behave-as-a-mass-on-a-spring.201226/
Most of the commercial driver and speaker manufacturers on the DIY site said his theory was wrong but they sold gear that was based on heavy cones and or amplifiers damping force eliminates any cone resonance... I trust my ears and think Overkill is right... But YMMV!
Oh yes I canned this idea after the first measurement on VC didn’t look particularly interesting.
The most recent iteration seems to match its specs. Thanks for bringing to again to my attention.
https://audioxpress.com/article/tes...-shallow-mounting-subwoofer-from-sb-acoustics
Now that’s in the shortlist.l!
@markbakk
Do you know anything slightly higher in sensitivity