Heco Celan GT502 crossovers

Hi all can I please have peoples input on the heco celan gt502 crossovers. I have used google with know help with the crossover design. Option1 keep original. Option2 slightly modified option3 heavy modified. Many thanks
 

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Even though these have 3 drivers, I think Heco describe them as 2.5 way as opposed to 3 way. The choice to go for a 2.5 way is probably due to reduced width compared with a more traditional 3 way with a large diameter woofer. Nice Kraft paper drivers. I see in their latest Celan Revolution which replaced Celan GT range, they do not offer a 2.5 way any more.
 
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Oh Lor! 😱

5 Capacitors, 5 Coils and 5 Capacitors. That will take some untangling to trace the circuit! 😀

Hard to say what you will find here.

I would distrust Internet opinions. Most folks are not too good at the technical stuff.

Likely a 2.5 way with 3rd order bass and midbass. Judging from the 4-8 ohm impedance and 91dB efficiency. The bass is different from the midbass.

This is more second order. But similar idea:

PEERLESS-NOMEX-164

I would leave well alone unless you are good at simulating. Clearly not gone cheap on the crossover. Sort of thing that annoys people is overly bright tweeter and top end. Easily enough tamed, but you'd need the schematic of the crossover.

Excessive bass can also get on your nerves with 2.5 ways. Not such an easy fix.
 
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At todays prices for scrap copper or just buying new inductors there must be close to £50 - £70 or more of decent gauge copper inductors in that single crossover.

The black capacitors as far as I can make out have a MT marking, MKT means polyester, with MKP meaning polypropylene. As plastic capacitors are seen as being pretty stable you shouldn't need to change those. The Non Polarised electrolytic's may be getting a bit past there sell by date so they could be an option from a reliability viewpoint, so as to future proof them for another ten plus years.

As others here have said without a circuit diagram, and knowing what you want to change it may be best to leave well alone. If you can figure out the crossover and post a schematic and say what is wrong then people can advise on that.

The quality of the crossover looks good to me, the resistors haven't got overly hot and scorched the board 🙂

A quick look on google suggests they had good reviews when they were first introduced.
 
At todays prices for scrap copper or just buying new inductors there must be close to £50 - £70 or more of decent gauge copper inductors in that single crossover.

The black capacitors as far as I can make out have a MT marking, MKT means polyester, with MKP meaning polypropylene. As plastic capacitors are seen as being pretty stable you shouldn't need to change those. The Non Polarised electrolytic's may be getting a bit past there sell by date so they could be an option from a reliability viewpoint, so as to future proof them for another ten plus years.

As others here have said without a circuit diagram, and knowing what you want to change it may be best to leave well alone. If you can figure out the crossover and post a schematic and say what is wrong then people can advise on that.

The quality of the crossover looks good to me, the resistors haven't got overly hot and scorched the board 🙂

A quick look on google suggests they had good reviews when they were first introduced.
Okay many thank all for such understanding of my original crossover much appreciated all.
 
Hi all can I please have peoples input on the heco celan gt502 crossovers. I have used google with know help with the crossover design. Option1 keep original. Option2 slightly modified option3 heavy modified. Many thanks
0B3851A3-C240-48D6-967F-A1241FEECE44.png

At todays prices for scrap copper or just buying new inductors there must be close to £50 - £70 or more of decent gauge copper inductors in that single crossover.

The black capacitors as far as I can make out have a MT marking, MKT means polyester, with MKP meaning polypropylene. As plastic capacitors are seen as being pretty stable you shouldn't need to change those. The Non Polarised electrolytic's may be getting a bit past there sell by date so they could be an option from a reliability viewpoint, so as to future proof them for another ten plus years.

As others here have said without a circuit diagram, and knowing what you want to change it may be best to leave well alone. If you can figure out the crossover and post a schematic and say what is wrong then people can advise on that.

The quality of the crossover looks good to me, the resistors haven't got overly hot and scorched the board 🙂

A quick look on google suggests they had good reviews when they were first introduced.
Hi raymondj so would you recommend changing the blue caps and if so what would be considered a good replacement. Also are the resistors of good quality. Also what does the MT stand for on the black capacitors Many thanks lee
 
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The blue caps are non polar electrolytic caps. If they are at least 10 years old you can think of replacing them because they degrade over time, but only with the same type, so you won't change ESR.
The black caps are MKT = polyester. They don't degrade over time and can/should stay there.
The resistors are MOX, I use them regularly.

Ralf
 
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Mundorf Mlytic from Willys hi fi or Alcap bipolars from Falcon acoustics here in the UK,

See here for some examples;
https://willys-hifi.com/collections/electrolytic-capacitors-non-polarised

Be careful of the operating voltages, As all of the bipolars in your image are 100V types which is important to match, Be careful when you order not to select a lower voltage same uF value cap by mistake

I imagine Mundorf should be easy to locate if you are in Europe, Soundimports stock them as does THLP. Parts express or Madisound in USA should also have suitable candidates.
 
Mundorf Mlytic from Willys hi fi or Alcap bipolars from Falcon acoustics here in the UK,

See here for some examples;
https://willys-hifi.com/collections/electrolytic-capacitors-non-polarised

Be careful of the operating voltages, As all of the bipolars in your image are 100V types which is important to match, Be careful when you order not to select a lower voltage same uF value cap by mistake

I imagine Mundorf should be easy to locate if you are in Europe, Soundimports stock them as does THLP. Parts express or Madisound in USA should also have suitable candidates.
Thank you all. The black caps saying MT on them. Would jantzen standard caps be a good replacement or jantzen cross caps. Many thanks
 
As I said, the MT (=MKT) caps are polyester and don't degrade over time. You really don't need to replace them, and chances are that the replacement caps you are mentioning (Jantzen Standard Z or Cross Cap), being both MKP are bigger than the original and woldn't fit. Frankly messing around a perfectly fine cap is a non sense.
The only caps than can be replaced are the electrolytic ones, if they are old enough. Use electrolytic caps as a replacement, NOT MKT or MKP. Apart Mundorf, other brands readily available in EU are Jantzen and Intertechnik (Audyn Cap).

Ralf
 
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