Harry's "Dayton soundbar"
Hello DiyAudio forumites, this is my first post on here... G'day from Australia
Im looking at building and BT soundbar/boombox for my metalwork/car workshop, it needs to get reasonably loud and sound nice(better than a cheap plastic thing).
I've done a little bit of speaker building before and done a few car audio installations in the past(My own and mates systems, full custom builds) and I'm also into making furniture, so physically constructing them is no problem.
I have already purchased my drivers and amp they are,
Dayton ND25FW-4 for the highs
Dayton RS180-4 for mid/mid-bass
Dayton RSS265HF-4 for the low end
Dayton DTA-2.1BT2 amp
I was intending to make a large "Dayton" soundbar all in one solution that can be used for my workshop of course and occasionally for party background music so some portability is desired... even if it takes two to carry it
As you would guess by my driver list its going to be a 2 way with sub, I will need some direction on the xovers for the ND25FW-4 and RS180-4, Im trying to learn as much as I can on them so far I think a xover around the 3k point, Dayton suggest keeping above 2.5k for the ND25FW.
I've tried to model the xovers in the excel sheet by JB after following Toid123's tutorial on YT, still playing around with it so I will have some questions to ask later when I go to finalise them as Id rather complete the box design first so I can include a bafflestep correction.
The box(s) design so far I have used Winisd and come up with,
Sub box vol is 50ltrs double slot ported @30Hz
Mid boxes vol is 15.4ltrs single slot ported @44Hz
The design is a box 300x300x675mm internally for the sub and 300x300x203mm for the mids, these volumes include vol for drivers ports and some bracing.
So here's my 1st question, looking at the picture below you can see its going to be sumo sized soundbar at about 350x350ish mm by around 1200mm long(14x14x48" approx), as all the drivers are on the same baffle how will this effect bafflestep and will it cause any bad cancellations? Is this design a bad idea can you see any major problems with box design and/or driver selection?
Hello DiyAudio forumites, this is my first post on here... G'day from Australia
Im looking at building and BT soundbar/boombox for my metalwork/car workshop, it needs to get reasonably loud and sound nice(better than a cheap plastic thing).
I've done a little bit of speaker building before and done a few car audio installations in the past(My own and mates systems, full custom builds) and I'm also into making furniture, so physically constructing them is no problem.
I have already purchased my drivers and amp they are,
Dayton ND25FW-4 for the highs
Dayton RS180-4 for mid/mid-bass
Dayton RSS265HF-4 for the low end
Dayton DTA-2.1BT2 amp
I was intending to make a large "Dayton" soundbar all in one solution that can be used for my workshop of course and occasionally for party background music so some portability is desired... even if it takes two to carry it
As you would guess by my driver list its going to be a 2 way with sub, I will need some direction on the xovers for the ND25FW-4 and RS180-4, Im trying to learn as much as I can on them so far I think a xover around the 3k point, Dayton suggest keeping above 2.5k for the ND25FW.
I've tried to model the xovers in the excel sheet by JB after following Toid123's tutorial on YT, still playing around with it so I will have some questions to ask later when I go to finalise them as Id rather complete the box design first so I can include a bafflestep correction.
The box(s) design so far I have used Winisd and come up with,
Sub box vol is 50ltrs double slot ported @30Hz
Mid boxes vol is 15.4ltrs single slot ported @44Hz
The design is a box 300x300x675mm internally for the sub and 300x300x203mm for the mids, these volumes include vol for drivers ports and some bracing.
So here's my 1st question, looking at the picture below you can see its going to be sumo sized soundbar at about 350x350ish mm by around 1200mm long(14x14x48" approx), as all the drivers are on the same baffle how will this effect bafflestep and will it cause any bad cancellations? Is this design a bad idea can you see any major problems with box design and/or driver selection?
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