Goldwood G-8003 8" Fullrange

After playing with tube amps (still building them!) I'm ready to try a speaker. Fullrange at this point and I'm thinking a folded TQWT, not for any logical reasons. Anyone know this speaker or have any suggestions? I'd love to work with a 4' x 4' sheet of birch ply I have, but I'm open to ideas. I could add a tweeter per Chang's BIB mod.

Specifications: Power handling: 50 watts RMS/80 watts max
VCdia: 1-1/2"
Le: .63 mH
Impedance: 8 ohms
Re: 7.05 ohms
Frequency range: 50-20,000 Hz
Fs: 47 Hz
SPL: 87 dB
2.83V/1m
Vas: 1.01 cu. ft.
Xmax: 2.0 mm
Qms: 3.82
Qes: 1.48
Qts: 1.07
Diameter: 8", Cutout Diameter: 7-1/8", Mounting Depth: 3-1/2"

I did a search here and found only 2 threads mentioning it, and one was the 150+ page BIB thread which I just don't have time to wade through right now.

Thanks a bunch!
Carl
 
If you have two pieces of that ply simply cut holes in them and mount the drivers as an open baffle. That is how they will work best.

If you only have one piece of ply i wonder if 4 x 2 would be a good open baffle size for this driver? Specs suggest this driver works best in open baffle. It was probably designed to work as a ceiling speaker like the Pioneer B20.
 

ronc

Member
2003-03-08 2:22 pm
Its been my experience in DIY audio that you should start with a better driver. Saves on time and expense. You can EnABL a B20 add phase plugs dink endless with the cab, but the end result it will not sound as good as a stock FE207.
If i was to advise anyone just getting into DIY i would still suggest the Curvy Chang with the 207. Saves time and $.

ron
 
Nelson has already addressed the comparison between the Goldwood and the Pioneer in his article on current source amplification and high efficiency full rangers. I get excellent results with the Pioneer B20 on OB, and have a hard time not believing Nelson when he says that the ~$5 difference in the cost of the two drivers is negligible compared to the difference in sound quality produced.

Don't bother with the Goldwood, especially if you're wanting to build any sort of enclosure. They really are meant for OB or IB installation and will require a huge enclosure if you went for any other sort of alignment.

ronc,

You got a set of stock FE207 you'd like to put up against that assertion? I've finally got the other half of that equation and would be more than willing to make direct comparisons for the edification of all. :)

Kensai
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'd like to read Nelson Pass' comparison of the two if someone can provide the link. I'll stick with the Goldwood or Pioneer for now as I'm doing this the REAL CHEAP. If I like what I hear, I'm willing to spend more. I want to convince my wife it's really worth the trouble and time. BTW, regarding SPL, I built a 1W SET tube amp and run it through some 89dB Boston Acoustics bookshelf speakers and it's PLENTY loud for most of my listening.

Thanks again. I may consider the open baffle as well since I've always been curious about them.

Carl
 
I recently bought two Goldwood 8" full range speakers to install into two old Boston Acoustic tower speaker boxes. They sound very good. In the same boxes are Dayton 8" Reference Series woofers mounted on the opposite side. This sytem is bi-amped and is quite flexible. For music listening I usually listen to only the Goldwoods. Using an equalizer really made a big difference. Peace.
 
Mark,

Got any common reference point you could compare your experience with the Goldwoods? There's so very little reliable real world information on their performance, and PE carries so many models at such good price points that I know alot of folk are secretly hoping that at least some of them are halfway decent units. At the very least, I am interested in hearing how they sound relative to something I may have already experienced.

Also, you're using the black, metal coned Dayton with the phase plug on the back? I'm interested in that line of drivers, too. Do you have any more detailed impressions on those?

Kensai
 
Kensai,

Did I read you right that you have a B20 that's been EnABL'ed? Did you do it yourself, and if so, with BudP's pattern? Can you post some before and after observations? You've maybe posted in the EnABL topic and I'm slowly working through it, but it's taking me a LOT of time to really follow it and I haven't stumbled on the B20 in that thread.

Thanks a ton,
Carl

PS, the G-8003 and B20 are so cheap I've decided to play with both in a variety of designs (starting with OB) just to educate myself. I figure I might be able to cover a ton of ground at low cost with these two, then it's on to more expensive units. That's just me BTW, I need to experience things and I don't have the budget to play with Fostex and the like. Thanks for all the ideas to this point.
 
Carlp said:
Did I read you right that you have a B20 that's been EnABL'ed? Did you do it yourself, and if so, with BudP's pattern? Can you post some before and after observations? You've maybe posted in the EnABL topic and I'm slowly working through it, but it's taking me a LOT of time to really follow it and I haven't stumbled on the B20 in that thread.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1414914#post1414914

dave
 
Kensai said:
Mark,

Got any common reference point you could compare your experience with the Goldwoods? There's so very little reliable real world information on their performance, and PE carries so many models at such good price points that I know alot of folk are secretly hoping that at least some of them are halfway decent units. At the very least, I am interested in hearing how they sound relative to something I may have already experienced.

Also, you're using the black, metal coned Dayton with the phase plug on the back? I'm interested in that line of drivers, too. Do you have any more detailed impressions on those?

Kensai



Yes, those are the Daytons I have. The bass goes way down deep, they are very clear, and they can take lots of power. They are the best 8" woofers I have ever heard, but one in each of the Bostons did not get the job done because the Bostons had two 8' woofers in each cabinet. I never could get the balance right between the Daytons and the Boston mids and tweeters. So I disconnected the mids and tweeters and used the Daytons as subwoofers with a pair of Polk Rti4's (in a bi-amped configuration). That combo sounded very good until I was bitten by the full-range bug.

Then I bought the Goldwood 8" full-range drivers and installed them in what used to be the back of the Boston cabinets. They are in sealed cabinets, and I do not know the volume. Flat, with no tone controls, they have good bass with a slight dip in the mid-bass. There is a spike around 3,000 hrtz and a dip after about 12,000. When I corrected this with an equalizer, it sounds very good. The bass is deep and clear; the mids are clear and very open; the highs are very natural sounding but do lack some definition.

I hope this helps. Peace.
 
Well, these speakers sat idol for a few years, but I have started using them again. I bought a new audio-video receiver, a Yamaha RX-V375. It has automatic speaker configuration / EQ. So the Yamaha powers the Goldwood 8" full-range drivers in the front, and my older Sherwood stereo powers the Dayton Reference 8" drivers in the back. I have them crossed over with the Yamaha at 100HZ. With this setup these sound better than ever.

I do not have the woodworking skills to make any speaker boxes with any complicated stuff inside, and I lack the technical knowledge most of you have. I also realize that many hi-fi enthusiasts favor the less-is-more approach. To me the Yamaha AVR is perfect for this speaker setup due to the automatic EQ for the full-range Goldwoods and the crossover for the Dayton drivers I use for subwoofers. I usually just listen to the front speakers and do not turn on the subwoofer receiver. I guess I lucked out with the Boston Acoustic T1000 towers. It is the best sound system I have ever had, and I am quite pleased. Peace and goodwill.