Banned
Joined 2002
Banned
Joined 2002
EPOXY Then it is hard as rock but light as hell you can get difrent temps because i used it when we made canoes and it depends what brands are yuo doing alot of glueing if so buy the mixture kind in to containers it is cheap here in canada epoxy is good and stong totaly.. you might want to play with mixtures though.. some may get tricky and difrent mesures will make times to cure and heat.. so play with it..
jason
jason
I always use hot glue. If you seen the commercial with a ladder you know it's pretty strong. The other advantage is, if you decide to change your crossover parts it's pretty easy to disassemble and clean. Also, because it's never really hard, it won't transfer vibrations easily, which may be preferrable in speakers crossover.
Glue for inductors
I would not use epoxy as well not hot glue.
Epoxy will glue good with PCB`s but mostly will not connect good with other materials.
I have quite some experiance with hot glue and particular in combination with mounting inductors and I do not like it too much. Hot glue always tend to loose over the time. If You use it, I`d recommend to fix the inductor with some cable binders also (maybe therefore You have to drill some holes in the PCB).
Defintely I would go for silicon. This glues like hell and You can almost combine any kind of materials. It is also incredible strong when hardened - a pound or two is not a problem at all (aquarium glasses are connected with silicone ONLY - even big ones with a ton or more water content!). What concerns vibration silicon is hard to beat too. With a razor blade silicon can be removed from smooth surfaces with not to much hassle (though depending of the material it may remain some discoloration).
In case You decide for silicon make sure to buy that stuff which is suitable for glueing glass (that`s the one that smells like vinegar) because there are various kinds of silicon and some of them do not glue at all.
I would not use epoxy as well not hot glue.
Epoxy will glue good with PCB`s but mostly will not connect good with other materials.
I have quite some experiance with hot glue and particular in combination with mounting inductors and I do not like it too much. Hot glue always tend to loose over the time. If You use it, I`d recommend to fix the inductor with some cable binders also (maybe therefore You have to drill some holes in the PCB).
Defintely I would go for silicon. This glues like hell and You can almost combine any kind of materials. It is also incredible strong when hardened - a pound or two is not a problem at all (aquarium glasses are connected with silicone ONLY - even big ones with a ton or more water content!). What concerns vibration silicon is hard to beat too. With a razor blade silicon can be removed from smooth surfaces with not to much hassle (though depending of the material it may remain some discoloration).
In case You decide for silicon make sure to buy that stuff which is suitable for glueing glass (that`s the one that smells like vinegar) because there are various kinds of silicon and some of them do not glue at all.
RTV Silicone Only On Electronics.
Hello dshortt9,
Best recomendation is to use silicone sealant and cable ties.
Be sure to use RTV silicone as it does not exude acetic acid during curing as does most other silicones.
The acetic acid can cause corrosion and shorted tourns in your inductor.
Regards, Eric.
Hello dshortt9,
Best recomendation is to use silicone sealant and cable ties.
Be sure to use RTV silicone as it does not exude acetic acid during curing as does most other silicones.
The acetic acid can cause corrosion and shorted tourns in your inductor.
Regards, Eric.
Clear RTV is stronger than hot glue and probably preferrable. What I like about hot glue is the speed of it's setting. My components usally lie down (as opposed to hang) on a board so strength is not an issue then. Hot glue when hit, brakes and then you can peel it off from the component which looks like new again, which is not always the caes with a silicone.
cocolino & mrfeedback diverge in opinion.
cocolino said "In case You decide for silicon make sure to buy that stuff which is suitable for glueing glass (that`s the one that smells like vinegar)"
But mrfeedback said "Be sure to use RTV silicone as it does not exude acetic acid during curing as does most other silicones."
Aren't vinegar and acetic acid one and the same thing? Sounds like acid woud be bad news for electronic stuff.
GP.
cocolino said "In case You decide for silicon make sure to buy that stuff which is suitable for glueing glass (that`s the one that smells like vinegar)"
But mrfeedback said "Be sure to use RTV silicone as it does not exude acetic acid during curing as does most other silicones."
Aren't vinegar and acetic acid one and the same thing? Sounds like acid woud be bad news for electronic stuff.
GP.
Acid Free Must Be
Hi Graham, Yup vinegar is diluted acetic acid, and yup acid is especially bad news for electronics, and more so any acid exposed solder joints.
Maybe RTV was wrong, but there are electronics application non acid forming grades of silicone sealant/adhesive available that do not exude acid upon curing - that is my point.
Sorry cocolino, but I think you are wrong here in your advice.
Regards, Eric.
Hi Graham, Yup vinegar is diluted acetic acid, and yup acid is especially bad news for electronics, and more so any acid exposed solder joints.
Maybe RTV was wrong, but there are electronics application non acid forming grades of silicone sealant/adhesive available that do not exude acid upon curing - that is my point.
Sorry cocolino, but I think you are wrong here in your advice.
Regards, Eric.
I think what mrfeedback said about the acid is the same thing I meant with the vinegar.
He is right what concerns corrossion but that`s true only if blank metal is involved. I agree better not to use this stuff on any kind of BLANK metal.
But I would not hesitate to glue anything else with the acid silicone. Electronic components are almost always in plastic housings or at least surrounded by some sort of plastic - all this can be glued without any harm.
As You all know acid is bad for metal but do not affect plastics.
I also glued condensors and many, many other things (not only electronic components). As the silicone is so resistant and glues so good on very different materials it has very universal application (exept metal).
As I said, I glued dozens! of inductors and without shorted turns.
The insulation lacquer of the copper wire of inductors is a pretty resistant thing and isn`t affected by the acid silicon.
My experiance IN PARTICULAR WITH THE SEALANT TYPES is that they do not glue. Maybe some kind of special silicon exists that glues and does not contain the acid stuff - I don`t know.
By all means it cannot harm to know that there are types that glue and other don`t.
Definitely epoxy
We keep 4 or 5 different kinds of epoxies and fiberglas cloth in the shop as my son sidelines fixing airplanes (real airplanes). If an inductor is really heavy, mount the board on the bottom of the cabinet -- also, cut two holes in the board and use a pair of "tie-wraps" to secure the inductor. Yes, I have gone to dinner parties with both belt and suspenders. I don't think that the hobby grade hot-melts will work satisfactorily.
We keep 4 or 5 different kinds of epoxies and fiberglas cloth in the shop as my son sidelines fixing airplanes (real airplanes). If an inductor is really heavy, mount the board on the bottom of the cabinet -- also, cut two holes in the board and use a pair of "tie-wraps" to secure the inductor. Yes, I have gone to dinner parties with both belt and suspenders. I don't think that the hobby grade hot-melts will work satisfactorily.
Well, I used hot melt and tie wraps and it is workong well right now. It is nice to be able to remove a component as I had misplaced one and was able to re-place it. Easy to work with. The tie wraps alone would probably be enough. The right silicone would probably work well also. Thanks to all for suggestions.
Dave
Dave
This might work
In my experience on boats, silicone really doesn't glue well.
But maybe I was using the sealant type. I didn't realize there were various types.
There are urathane sealants that are really strong and really glue yet are still flexible. Sikaflex is an example.
Unlike silicone, they are really sticky and you can't just clean up mistakes by wiping with a rag. BUT when they glue something it stays glued!! but it is also flexible so might add damping, and thick, so it conforms to irregular objects. and if it is a thick blob, you could cut the componant off the board with a razor knife if needed. Available at home depot type stores and boat parts stores
In my experience on boats, silicone really doesn't glue well.
But maybe I was using the sealant type. I didn't realize there were various types.
There are urathane sealants that are really strong and really glue yet are still flexible. Sikaflex is an example.
Unlike silicone, they are really sticky and you can't just clean up mistakes by wiping with a rag. BUT when they glue something it stays glued!! but it is also flexible so might add damping, and thick, so it conforms to irregular objects. and if it is a thick blob, you could cut the componant off the board with a razor knife if needed. Available at home depot type stores and boat parts stores
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