Full range build

[Jamez116]

Hello, I am currently a student in college and I am building a speaker as part of my project. I want to use a full range driver and I am looking to use Dayton Audio RS100-8 4". I want to make them passive too.

I am extremely knew to this industry and am quite intimidated by it all aha. I know I need other components but I am unsure to what. Could you please help me? Thank you.

 

[jimk04]

Welcome. A very 'open' question you ask but as a start you may want to read up on baffle step compensation (BSC). This will help boost the low frequencies.
You may also want to look at notch filters to flatten any potential nasty peaks in the response, and maybe a zobel to stabilise the impedance as seen by the amplifier.

You could download software such as winisd. Easy to use to see what kind of bass extension in a given size box you may expect.

Mostly....enjoy !

 

[Jamez116]

Thank you very much for this info.

Could you please let me know what kind of hardware I will need along with the driver. do I need a cross over or does the driver connect directly to the terminal connected to the external amp?

Thank you.

 

[picowallspeaker]

There's the Loudspeaker's Subforum Multy-Way which subtitle is "Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers"
This is Full Range forum so no crossovers are needed > would you cross it to what?!

There might be some R-C-L cells ( network) on the path to overcome to any potential nasty peaks in the response but that's a thing to worry later, IMO.

 

[TimbreAudio]

I highly rate the Mark Audio drivers, there are a few sellers around the world, KJF in the Uk. They have just updated the Mark Audio website with all the box plans, so find a driver in your price range, choose a box, make it from MDF or ply, buy some cable and terminals & crimp connectors means you don't even have to solder, and plug it in. Simple...

 

[jimk04]

Jamez. As pico states above you will probably be wanting certain 'R C L' networks. These stand for Resistor, Capacitor and the L stands for Inductor . These are the basics of any speaker filter or crossover. But here in the fullrange section of the forum, and if you propose a fill range soeaker build, we dont need the crossover , we just need to use the R C L components to alter the frequency response of the speaker to sound how we want.
Or indeed as TA says above some drivers in certain boxes you may find dont need much in the way of the signal being modified.

 

[Bambinz]

Hi Jamez116,
I'am building a full-range speaker based on Dayton RS100-8 4".
This is my thread with the simulation and the dimensions: New 3" Full range TL

Now I have buy the wood and in the next weeks I will finish to assemble it

If you have time, when I have finished I will post all measures, dimensions, simulations, BSC Filter calculation, ecc

 

[Halair]

Get a miniDSP UMIK1 and download REW - now you have a solid tool to measure your speaker and the effects of filters / cabinet / shape etc.

Also consider getting some sort of digital DSP control, and take the filters digital. You can learn tuning a system faster and cheaper that way

 

[joeytvr]

Hi Jamez116,
I'am building a full-range speaker based on Dayton RS100-8 4".
This is my thread with the simulation and the dimensions: New 3" Full range TL

Now I have buy the wood and in the next weeks I will finish to assemble it

If you have time, when I have finished I will post all measures, dimensions, simulations, BSC Filter calculation, ecc

Interested to follow this build myself.

 

[BJosephs]

Hello, I am currently a student in college and I am building a speaker as part of my project. I want to use a full range driver and I am looking to use Dayton Audio RS100-8 4". I want to make them passive too.

I am extremely knew to this industry and am quite intimidated by it all aha. I know I need other components but I am unsure to what. Could you please help me? Thank you.

Most important question I think is what are the requirements of your project and what expectations do you have of the results? In the simplest form this project could be a small sealed box with terminals on the back and the driver in the front with some wire in between - hook up to an appropriate amp and be done. More complexity may be appropriate.

 

[picowallspeaker]

Get a miniDSP UMIK1 and download REW - now you have a solid tool to measure your speaker and the effects of filters / cabinet / shape etc.

Also consider getting some sort of digital DSP control, and take the filters digital. You can learn tuning a system faster and cheaper that way

OMG, NO!
Then Wesayso, Byrtt, Fluid, Perceval and others will resettle in the topic for days


( sorry for the ones I didn't mention, as they...deserve a lot! )

 

[tiburd]

As a followup to Timbre Audio, I too like the Markaudio drivers, which in the U.S. are available from Madisound.com (no affiliation). I use WinISD some, but mainly the free site Loudspeaker enclosure calculating with Thiele Small parameter to design cabinet and port dimensions and combinations. Pay attention to the QL parameter, describing "total box Q," as it can have a significant effect on the design and bass performance; some sources state that a typical value is QL=7 for modest-sized enclosures. I previously completed a simple build of vented enclosures for the full-range Tang Band W3-1364S (no extra filters or components) and it turned out so well that I'm planning a new project with the Markaudio Pluvia Seven. Good luck and enjoy!