Hello,
I am selling 4 used Elna Cerafines 10,000uF 80v Smoothers. They have been very lightly used as I moved over to Class A amps to drive my electrostats plus one of the channels never worked. (needed new fets etc)
They are attached to a PCB as shown, but without a soldering Iron I cannot take them off. At any rate you have the rectifiers and Tabs/lugs for the toriodals (which I have also - I think 450VA). It was an old 4r 300watt amp hitachi-design based mosfet PA amp.
Would rather just send out the board as shown. PS. You could if you want cut out the apropriate PCB section. ie keep rectifiers & smoothers and lugs and discard the rest then drill holes to chassis mount with stand-offs.
The rectifiers can be replaced with fast/soft recovery types also if desired. I can dig out a part number if any one is interested.
The caps were not cheap from what I remember and have high ripple current ratings also. And little use. The silicone sealant can be pealed away no problems. Best thing I would recoment is to use a PCB gullotine and keep the rectifier/caps/transformer lug section.
PS. Apologises for the poor picture quality - have not yet found my decent Canon camera. Am moving you see, so am clearing out lots of "audio junk". Damn I got boxes of the bloody stuff....lol
I am selling 4 used Elna Cerafines 10,000uF 80v Smoothers. They have been very lightly used as I moved over to Class A amps to drive my electrostats plus one of the channels never worked. (needed new fets etc)
They are attached to a PCB as shown, but without a soldering Iron I cannot take them off. At any rate you have the rectifiers and Tabs/lugs for the toriodals (which I have also - I think 450VA). It was an old 4r 300watt amp hitachi-design based mosfet PA amp.
Would rather just send out the board as shown. PS. You could if you want cut out the apropriate PCB section. ie keep rectifiers & smoothers and lugs and discard the rest then drill holes to chassis mount with stand-offs.
The rectifiers can be replaced with fast/soft recovery types also if desired. I can dig out a part number if any one is interested.
The caps were not cheap from what I remember and have high ripple current ratings also. And little use. The silicone sealant can be pealed away no problems. Best thing I would recoment is to use a PCB gullotine and keep the rectifier/caps/transformer lug section.
PS. Apologises for the poor picture quality - have not yet found my decent Canon camera. Am moving you see, so am clearing out lots of "audio junk". Damn I got boxes of the bloody stuff....lol