Fostex FE206E phase plug

http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=hug&n=90729
The Socket phase plug made the driver sound smoother by taking out some of the nasle, honky sound. Also the speaker, stock, has a hole in the dust cap that whistles at low frequencies. At 45 hz you can stand 3' away and feel the air hitting you from the hole.It's a 15/16" craftsman socket 3/8" drive. Carefully cut the dust cap with an exacto knife. Soon as the socket gets near the magnet it's going to suck the socket quickly, so be carefull. See pics in my gallery.
 
Yes, and they make a very noticable difference to me!

15/16" craftsman, 1/2" drive.

15/16" side to inside, 1/2" side facing out.
The brand name of course doesn't make any difference, but that's what's used, so those are the dimensions to look for.
It is said that the concave part on the 1/2" side is important.
Also, some people report it helps to wrap the outer part of the outside edge with something soft: e.g. a ribbon of cloth, although I haven't tried that yet.

Robert
 
tade said:
that is so cool, i like the fact the website didnt say simply that. Where can i buy the driver unmodded, and do you recommend it?
madisound.com and yes.

I currently use the FE207E (shielded version of the FE206E) in 45 liter vented cabs, but if I were starting from scratch I would build the Martin King Project 5.

If you are a good woodworker, you could build a back-loaded horn for the FE206E, there are a number of good designs out there but if it were me I would build Ron Clarke's Dallas II design.

I think the FE207E is a great driver for the money. It has a bit of a forward emphasis, easily remedied by toeing in the speakers so their axes cross well in front of the listener. This also creates nice stereo imagery and a large sweet spot.
 
Easily the best driver available for the price. They'll do fine detail in jazz, chamber, classical and folk music, but believe me, they can rock too. They seem to lap up the soundtrack to Miami Vice with glee. Buy either with confidence. Then stick whichever you choose, the 206 or 207 (I like the 207 -better bass performance) in Martin's MLTL project mentioned above, or buy a spectacularly detailed set of plans from Bob Brines for the bargin price (and it is) of $25 for a slightly more refined version. Both of these cabinets will also take Lowther's in the future...

Best
Scott
 
I was thinking a safe way to insert the sockets into the drivers. Secure the driver facing up on a drill press table. Cut off the female end of a socket extension and mount it in a drill press along with the socket on the male end. And there ya go...

I'll put money that was the reason the socket is oriented with that side facing out.

Btw, I also own a pair of the Decware HDT MK-I with these drivers the "alternate tuned" HDT cabinets. Very nice sound ;-)
 
There is no place for humility in HIFI!

On second thought, it seems, the better you are at it, the more humble you can afford to be. If you have sh!tty sound, you'de best have an impressive looking system to bacl it up!

About that site:
I really like that pair of speakers he has, very nice look. i like puting the horn mouth to the front, makes them more interesting to look at, not so monolithic.
 

BobSchott

Member
2015-11-09 4:20 pm
15/16 socket size?

Yes, and they make a very noticable difference to me!
Are you using the standard "shallow" or deep socket?


15/16" craftsman, 1/2" drive.

15/16" side to inside, 1/2" side facing out.
The brand name of course doesn't make any difference, but that's what's used, so those are the dimensions to look for.
It is said that the concave part on the 1/2" side is important.
Also, some people report it helps to wrap the outer part of the outside edge with something soft: e.g. a ribbon of cloth, although I haven't tried that yet.

Robert