I recently built a set of speakers with birch plywood. (Specifically, the dMar-Ken7.3 from a flat pack supplied by Planet10 HiFi. If Dave or Chris sees this thread, he might offer some more detail about the wood.)
I'm happily enjoying the speakers in unfinished form, but will have some time in a few weeks to hopefully make them slightly more presentable.
I read a handful of threads about finishing plywood, but there are infinite options. I'm hoping that if I post some specifics about what I'm looking for, I might get some more targeted suggestions.
So, in order of decreasing importance, I'd like the finish to be:
Notice that "aesthetics" didn't make that list. Obviously I care a little about how they look, or I wouldn't bother finishing them at all... but I tend to like very plain or utilitarian stuff (I think "understated" is the fancy word for this). So I'm really just looking for a rugged, matte black finish that's fairly easy to apply.
The only area where I would like to tidy up a bit is some of the joints I didn't glue perfectly square... some edges might have a 1/16" or so lip from sliding that occurred from my sometimes impatient clamping. Is sanding down these edges with coarse sandpaper the best bet? Or is there a point at which you forgo sanding and use something like wood filler?
I'm guessing paint is probably my best bet? But what kind? Should I use a primer coat? And what about varnish or lacquer? Maybe a marine-grade product for durability?
Thanks!
I'm happily enjoying the speakers in unfinished form, but will have some time in a few weeks to hopefully make them slightly more presentable.
I read a handful of threads about finishing plywood, but there are infinite options. I'm hoping that if I post some specifics about what I'm looking for, I might get some more targeted suggestions.
So, in order of decreasing importance, I'd like the finish to be:
- Relatively easy. By that, I mean no esoteric tools or skills-that-need-to-be-practiced. Something that can be done successfully with basic tools (rags, paint brushes, sponges, etc) and by somebody with very little wood-finishing experience in a few days' time (or less).
- Inexpensive. Doesn't require unobtanium or purchasing from obscure/boutique/specialty shops.
- Durable, low-maintenance, easy to clean. One face of one of these speakers will likely spend part of every day in sunlight. I don't expect them to be moved around too much though.
Notice that "aesthetics" didn't make that list. Obviously I care a little about how they look, or I wouldn't bother finishing them at all... but I tend to like very plain or utilitarian stuff (I think "understated" is the fancy word for this). So I'm really just looking for a rugged, matte black finish that's fairly easy to apply.
The only area where I would like to tidy up a bit is some of the joints I didn't glue perfectly square... some edges might have a 1/16" or so lip from sliding that occurred from my sometimes impatient clamping. Is sanding down these edges with coarse sandpaper the best bet? Or is there a point at which you forgo sanding and use something like wood filler?
I'm guessing paint is probably my best bet? But what kind? Should I use a primer coat? And what about varnish or lacquer? Maybe a marine-grade product for durability?
Thanks!
Use a router with a flush trim bit to clean up the lip. I still think pre-stain and a lightly tinted danish oil such as watco is the easiest finish for birch which tends to splotch otherwise.
I've recently built some workbench cabinets from baltic birch plywood, and used a wiping varnish for the final finish. I used Minwax 'clear satin' and it's virtually fool-proof in its application. I first sanded the wood to 220-grit, and using a rag, applied a coat of the varnish. After it was completely dry, I very lightly sanded the surface with 330-grit. I repeated the process at least 3 times, and as many as 6 times for top horizontal surfaces that will be subject to more abuse.
This method is a little slower than some, but it avoids problems with drips and sags common to other methods. It yields a nice final finish.
The Minwax wiping varnish is a little pricey (about $11 USD per quart), but you can also make your own wiping varnish by mixing regular polyurethane varnish with thinner. I think the ratio is 1:1 but don't quote me on that.
If your wood is not as attractive as baltic birch, then painting may be a better option.
This method is a little slower than some, but it avoids problems with drips and sags common to other methods. It yields a nice final finish.
The Minwax wiping varnish is a little pricey (about $11 USD per quart), but you can also make your own wiping varnish by mixing regular polyurethane varnish with thinner. I think the ratio is 1:1 but don't quote me on that.
If your wood is not as attractive as baltic birch, then painting may be a better option.
Yeah, that sounds like the best approach, unfortunately, I don't have a router... that's why I commissioned Planet10 to make me the flat pack. 🙂
That's interesting... maybe a bit more rugged than I really need, although it's tempting. I couldn't find too many pictures of finished products to get a better feel for what the finished product looks like (the "textures" tab gives a few small pics). You'd think a site like that would have lots of pictures of what the product looks like (either that or I'm overlooking all them).
Thanks guys, I'll look into those.
Unfortunately, the router is the only reasonable way to trim off the lip . You could try a sander but it might turn out as well.
Perhaps find a friend who has one, or buy a basic plunge router. Harbor freight has cheapies but the bare minimum would be a craftsman like this Sears.com
I'd suggest a dewalt ideally but I get the feeling that you're on a budget or space limited or maybe don't intend to use it frequently
Perhaps find a friend who has one, or buy a basic plunge router. Harbor freight has cheapies but the bare minimum would be a craftsman like this Sears.com
I'd suggest a dewalt ideally but I get the feeling that you're on a budget or space limited or maybe don't intend to use it frequently
I checked the second pair we made... they are Murphy Ply which has maple face-veneeres, and is generally higher quality than BB.
dave
dave
Trimming a 'lip'...... try a good old fashioned block plane, Stanley 220.
Cheap (second hand from a market stall = £5 / $8), QUIET and less chance of doing damaging everything.
Cheap (second hand from a market stall = £5 / $8), QUIET and less chance of doing damaging everything.
Or just some elbow grease and stroke sanding in the direction of grain with block of scrap plywood or MDF and PSA backed sandpaper - starting with 80G and progressing down to at least 220. Fit a cardboard "mask" cut to the same diameter as driver to prevent dust and finishing products from contaminating the enclosure interior. A lot easier to control that a belt sander or electric random orbit. Although the air powered ROs are much lighter and easier to manipulate, and can remove fairly aggressively, they do require more CFPM than most small compressors can muster.
As for finishing products, I generally use professional grade NC lacquer and HVLP spray equipment, but have recent found a very nice hybrid water/oil varnish that brushes quite nicely with foam brushes - of course it does take much longer to dry between coats than would a solvent based spray, but once cured, is quite durable (it's engineered as a flooring finish)
- Products - [SamaN Canada]
I tried one of their water based stains and quite hated it - I much prefer the ML Campbell Woodsong solvent based stains.
As for finishing products, I generally use professional grade NC lacquer and HVLP spray equipment, but have recent found a very nice hybrid water/oil varnish that brushes quite nicely with foam brushes - of course it does take much longer to dry between coats than would a solvent based spray, but once cured, is quite durable (it's engineered as a flooring finish)
- Products - [SamaN Canada]
I tried one of their water based stains and quite hated it - I much prefer the ML Campbell Woodsong solvent based stains.
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The latter two reasons are the main issues: space, and time to use it. I do intend to some day own decent woodworking equipment along with the space to use it, but that's years down the road.
Thanks, that's good to know.
This low-tech method is what I had in mind... I guess I was looking for confirmation that it's a valid approach. I'll have time for this, as I'm taking these cabs with me on vacation where we basically just hang out and do nothing. Wood finishing seems like the perfect relaxing project to work on while taking it easy.
Seems like an obvious smart thing to do, but I'm glad I asked, because there's a good chance it wouldn't have occurred to me on my own!
Great, thank you! I'll research these and other suggestions some more.
After spending some time researching stains and varnishes, and still not coming up with a clear idea of what I want/need, I re-visited this idea.
I still think their website should have more pics, but in the meantime, Google is my friend. A query of "site:techtalk.parts-express.com duratex" yielded this link, Duratex and MDF finishing questions, with a ton of pictures down at post #15. (A similar search on diyaudio.com resulted in fewer pics.)
Furthermore, the Acry-Tech site has a link to a document which explains how to do a leather texture look with Duratex. Looks pretty slick to me. Somewhat reminds me of a vinyl covering. (My first DIY speaker build was a 2x12 guitar speaker cab I built for myself. I coated it in vinyl.)
Based on the anecdotal info from my searches, I think DuraTex meets all my criteria: sounds easy to apply (no priming, no varnishing, just one or two coats to taste); has no or virtually no odor (not a requirement, but certainly a perk); and I think the $25 trial size out to be enough, so it's cheap too.
Google image search was helpful giving me ideas/inspiration of what I really want to achieve. I really like the look of these Plasti Dip Overnight Sensations. I suspect I can achieve a similar look with Duratex.
I've done the 'truck bed liner' finish on some and I wish I'd seen that product before I did it my way.
![phpjcIYfDPM[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/390/390706-3662b8ed69b1ef2fbdeaeadcaed2d904.jpg?hash=NmK47Wmx7y)
I will give a second vote for Minwax wipe on Polyurathane or Watco wipe-on finish. Both are pretty much foolproof.
I would not use a stain unless you have a scrap piece of the same plywood to test it on before applying it to the finished cabinets.
I would not use a stain unless you have a scrap piece of the same plywood to test it on before applying it to the finished cabinets.
I think that several of us may have missed the 'black, matte & utilitarian' in original post
The product that Do suggested is probably as good as any - if the cabinets are subject to the type of handling that most "road gear" is asked to endure, presumably touch-ups are as easy as initial application
The product that Do suggested is probably as good as any - if the cabinets are subject to the type of handling that most "road gear" is asked to endure, presumably touch-ups are as easy as initial application
I like the matte black finishes quite a bit too. Have you looked into spray on truck bed liner, some guys use that. I just did a project using flat black rust paint, 3 coats primer 3 coats black flat, simple and easy to touch up later on and it looks great. Its an in house brand at one of our canadian stores, its called tremclad available at Canadian tire.
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I made an attempt to edit, not sure why the tab is missing. At any rate Ive used a lot of matte paints and love how this one turned out, here is a better example. The disc at the bottom still has some sheen only because its a couple days fresh, takes about a week to fully dry. I was planning to do the other pieces a cherry wood colour stain but Im really tempted to black them out.
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I don't expect them to be subject to any kind of rough handling, I just have a (weird?) preference for "industrial" looking things.
When I looked into the Duratex more, I found several references where it was likened to truck bed liner. I went ahead and ordered a gallon, now it's waiting for me to apply it.
I saw some comments that it hides cabinet blemishes pretty well too, and uneven surfaces can be treated with drywall spackle. Everything I read is consistent with what Don says: easy to use. Sounds geared towards the lazy cabinet finisher---right up my alley! 🙂
Only question now is what to do with the vent port. It's only about 3/4" tall; I can only get my fingers in up to the first knuckle. I certainly won't be able to get a brush in very far, and a roller is completely out of the question. Maybe just some black stain, applied via small bit of cloth with a stick?
The foam on a stick applicators work well when you dab with them opposed to useing the standard brush stroke motion, they are good for getting in tight quarters and not making a mess of things http://images.orgill.com/200x200/1699701.JPG
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