Why? Build a big 7U chassis, plug in your power supplies on a bottom slide tray, add the power amps on sliding end sides, the FE(s) go(es) next on the inside, then the preamp and DAC.. and maybe a cage within a cage for the phone. You can slide and mix and match as you go along.
Then you can hoard the boards, not the chassis.
As some one with more than 40 amps by now I can tell you it would be a lot cheaper, and more efficient, to have four such 7U chassis in use and 60 boards stored in nice anti static poly bags.
For Class D amp designs you could get away with 3U.
Then you can hoard the boards, not the chassis.
As some one with more than 40 amps by now I can tell you it would be a lot cheaper, and more efficient, to have four such 7U chassis in use and 60 boards stored in nice anti static poly bags.
For Class D amp designs you could get away with 3U.
What is everyone using for a preamp with the F5m?
Tried a Front End with Clarity caps and the sound is bright and sterile sounding.
wondering if a Wayne’s or ACP would have a more relaxed and warmer sound stage.
Tried a Front End with Clarity caps and the sound is bright and sterile sounding.
wondering if a Wayne’s or ACP would have a more relaxed and warmer sound stage.
My preamp is a Naim NAC 82 w/ a DIY dual HiCap external power supply.
That’s just how I roll 😉
That’s just how I roll 😉
Iron Pumpkin is my standard Pre. However, I tried it with a variety of pre-amps when doing the build guide. In fairness, I never found it bright or sterile. However, my ears aren't all that fabulous.
I tried it with the Iron Pre, a WHAMMY, ACP+, B1K, and a few other DIY and commercial pre-amps of both SS and tube varieties.
IMO (and everything varies with systems)... the ACP+, which has been called the "baby J2" by some is pretty relaxed. The B1K is relaxed, IMO. A VTL tube amp I used was very good. That's not to say that any of the pre-amps I used were bad combinations, but those were the ones I recall that may lean toward what you're thinking.
If you happen to have an ACP+, I'd hook it up straight away and see if it does what you like. The trick is always that we all likely have slightly different preferences, and I know my room is pretty "dead" vs. "lively".
Enjoy!
Skilled builders who really know what they're doing, might even contemplate using "Yes It Can Drive an F4" (link) as a preamp for F5m. Since the F4 included AC coupling, but F5m is fully DC coupled, you'd certainly want to add a high quality coupling capacitor at the F5m input. Something like 2.7uF polypropylene.
I'm finally building this this summer. What PEM and fuseholders did you use for this dual mono build? I'm assuming the recommended PEM won't work for this application.
^ The PEM you linked would work just fine. It will also mount flush to the back panel of the Deluxe chassis shown in the photo.
re: the fuse-holders, if you're referring specifically to the fuse blocks for each channel inside the chassis, mr_relaxer would need to answer. Overall, they're fairly common. Below are a few examples.
Example of a search for fuse blocks for 5x20 fuses in Digikey
re: the fuse-holders, if you're referring specifically to the fuse blocks for each channel inside the chassis, mr_relaxer would need to answer. Overall, they're fairly common. Below are a few examples.
Example of a search for fuse blocks for 5x20 fuses in Digikey
I liked the low profile vibe so much I copied it. This is such a clean amp.
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I was moving mine from a 4U to a 2U last night and noticed the same thing with my rear panel. Most of my rear panels are bowed, even the smaller galaxy ones, but this one's the worst.Although, the bowing rear panel strikes again!Put some washers on the inside of the panel’s mounting holes to relive that stress!
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Many times the sink is just a mm proud of the rail. It’s tricky to get the right washer(s) between the panel and rail holes. Also, sometimes a more loose mounting of all the bigger chassis screws will allow for a flush fit, but getting all of them square takes some trial and error (and a few choice expletives of encouragement 
). Straightening the panel after the bowing can be a bit dicey, too.
). Straightening the panel after the bowing can be a bit dicey, too.What about using M/F standoffs, which would allow some spacing between panel and chassis and increase internal ventilation? Trying to add washers to 4 screws while mounting seems like an extremely frustrating experience. Perhaps use some dielectric grease to help hod the washers on the screw before attempting mounting?
M4 male/female standoffs would likely be good, but I don’t know what size those threads are on the rails.