f5 Turbo power supply

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jump to Latest
#61
sangram said:
Looks okay to me, you can crimp two cables on each connector with no issues, I do that all the time.

Don't forget that you should be moving the rail side to the bottom (ground planes are topside) to make soldering of the resistors a bit easier. It is manageable both ways though, you can execute as per your wish.
Click to expand...

Done, i'll have to practice caps are going to be problem, solder has to flow to other side which will be completely blocked after mounting capacitor.

I didn't realize its that difficult to solder on large plane until i saw video on yourtube "How to solder" 😀
 
Last edited:
#63
Hi

Ifhe boards are homebrew you shouldn't flip the planes. I assumed they would be PTH, if not you should stick to your original plan.

Re soldering I would recommend a hot in with big tip, and very quick movents. No longer than a second per terminal is needed, and the additional heat transfer gets the copper hot enough for a joint. In fact homebrew boards on 35um have w problems because of the low weight of copper.

I've used a 120w iron to do this task in the past, though even a 50w unit is good but be careful to not overheat the caps.
 
#64
sangram said:
Hi

Ifhe boards are homebrew you shouldn't flip the planes. I assumed they would be PTH, if not you should stick to your original plan.

Re soldering I would recommend a hot in with big tip, and very quick movents. No longer than a second per terminal is needed, and the additional heat transfer gets the copper hot enough for a joint. In fact homebrew boards on 35um have w problems because of the low weight of copper.

I've used a 120w iron to do this task in the past, though even a 50w unit is good but be careful to not overheat the caps.
Click to expand...

It says 1 oz copper(6inch X 6inch), if i don't flip i'll have problem with resistors as well. With flipping it's just caps.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom