ESL Diaphragm Coating - HELP
- Thread starter GlidingDutchman
- Start date
Hi,
which treatment could you suggest, SY? A plasma-treatment is hardly practical for DIY and all the samples I sent to companies doing plasma treatment, came back wrinkled as a crunchy nut and useless.
They all declared, that less than 12mm thickness could not be treated that way because of too much heat generated in the process.
So, do You know practicable alternatives?
jauu
Calvin
which treatment could you suggest, SY? A plasma-treatment is hardly practical for DIY and all the samples I sent to companies doing plasma treatment, came back wrinkled as a crunchy nut and useless.
They all declared, that less than 12mm thickness could not be treated that way because of too much heat generated in the process.
So, do You know practicable alternatives?
jauu
Calvin
Using a coating that has been developed for ESL's over many years is the way to go. Apply the coating, let it dry and you are done. Most other methods are time consuming and very difficuilt to obtain an even resistance. The coating from my earlier post dries clear and is very thin. You are going to have spent a considerable amount of time with tensioning and the high voltage supply, why add to the complexity and possibilities of running into complications. Apply once and forget about it.
Cheers
Greg
Cheers
Greg
take the good advice...
Greg,s suggestion is the way to go. There are also other members here that sell EC coatings designed to do this job and they don't cost all that much. If you want to play around as Sy said you can search and find a lot of well discussed ideas here. If you want to try something new I would suggest you get some hi tech super shine top coat liquid at the automotive store. That stuff is designed to stick (to death) on ultra smooth plastic surfaces (your cars paint). If you don't get enough conductivity you can always dope it with some chemical from a dryer sheet soaked in any old aromatic hydrocarbon. Then if it does not work just buy something. For low tech I still think that PVA adhesive (white glue) diluted one part adhesive to five parts water doped with some dryer sheet chemical (soak it in water) (I can't remember the name of the chemical right now) and add it to the diluted glue. There you go it sticks and it works and it should be ok in dry climates though that is not likely a concern for you. Or you could buy some EC coating. If you decide to play let me know I like playing because it's more interesting. Inks, antistatics, car waxes, coatings for floors cars etc... Have fun and enjoy what ever way you go
Greg,s suggestion is the way to go. There are also other members here that sell EC coatings designed to do this job and they don't cost all that much. If you want to play around as Sy said you can search and find a lot of well discussed ideas here. If you want to try something new I would suggest you get some hi tech super shine top coat liquid at the automotive store. That stuff is designed to stick (to death) on ultra smooth plastic surfaces (your cars paint). If you don't get enough conductivity you can always dope it with some chemical from a dryer sheet soaked in any old aromatic hydrocarbon. Then if it does not work just buy something. For low tech I still think that PVA adhesive (white glue) diluted one part adhesive to five parts water doped with some dryer sheet chemical (soak it in water) (I can't remember the name of the chemical right now) and add it to the diluted glue. There you go it sticks and it works and it should be ok in dry climates though that is not likely a concern for you. Or you could buy some EC coating. If you decide to play let me know I like playing because it's more interesting. Inks, antistatics, car waxes, coatings for floors cars etc... Have fun and enjoy what ever way you go
Give it a try, I have not tried it.
Not too sure how permanent it would be though, the data sheet shows the its resistance raises considerably after a short time.
This is not necessarily a bad thing unless it rises to high to the point of no operation after a amount of time.
Here is the data sheet,
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...Xjfm3Q5PPi8Oa3dAQ&sig2=krjkjORu4rZ2MCMTMyAemg
Take a look through these threads for some proven alternatives should it fail eventually,
This one is very long but has a wealth of info,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/109789-esl-diaphragm-coating.html#post1321081
This thread also disscuss's the PVA (white) glue formula in it as well,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/109789-esl-diaphragm-coating-7.html#post2078272
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/109789-esl-diaphragm-coating-7.html#post2081597
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/109789-esl-diaphragm-coating-7.html#post2089360
I use it to make non-corroding graphite charge rings and HV connections but I have not tried used it as a diaphragm coating as i still have plenty of Licron and Licron Crystal left over.
FWIW
jer
Not too sure how permanent it would be though, the data sheet shows the its resistance raises considerably after a short time.
This is not necessarily a bad thing unless it rises to high to the point of no operation after a amount of time.
Here is the data sheet,
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...Xjfm3Q5PPi8Oa3dAQ&sig2=krjkjORu4rZ2MCMTMyAemg
Take a look through these threads for some proven alternatives should it fail eventually,
This one is very long but has a wealth of info,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/109789-esl-diaphragm-coating.html#post1321081
This thread also disscuss's the PVA (white) glue formula in it as well,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/109789-esl-diaphragm-coating-7.html#post2078272
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/109789-esl-diaphragm-coating-7.html#post2081597
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/109789-esl-diaphragm-coating-7.html#post2089360
I use it to make non-corroding graphite charge rings and HV connections but I have not tried used it as a diaphragm coating as i still have plenty of Licron and Licron Crystal left over.
FWIW
jer