I am remodeling my great room, bringing in two La-z-boy recliners, getting rid of the couch. This is also the room I watch TV most often in. The speakers are in-walls and the TV is a super neatly installed low profile samsung. In short, I the AV setup is understated, but I do not want to compromise on performance. I want to replace the in-room sub with two custom built end tables to put by the recliners, that actually serve the job of end tables and subs.
I have two Ascendant Audio (now defunct) Atlas 12's and PE 250 W amps that have been sitting on the shelf for a decade and I never got around to building anything with them. At this point I am thinking of using the Adire Shiva plans for 88.5L sealed configuration. https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/2/2/9/7/4/16273.pdf
For a finish, I was thinking of doing a live edge waterfall style table look, with the sub inset into the slab on the front. I'm not sure if my woodworking skills are up to that precision though. Alternatively I could have the live edge go the other way with a waterfall down both sides, but I think the contrast between the edge and the sub will seem less striking.
Finally, I do not know where to mount the plate amps. I do not want to have them external, so either I cut a hole in the back panel and mouth them there, or I create another amp chamber on the back of the box, separate from the sub chamber. I do not know how much of a difference the plate amp in the sub chamber vs. a separate chamber makes. Could use advice.
Thoughts on my plan? Any suggestions?
I have two Ascendant Audio (now defunct) Atlas 12's and PE 250 W amps that have been sitting on the shelf for a decade and I never got around to building anything with them. At this point I am thinking of using the Adire Shiva plans for 88.5L sealed configuration. https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/2/2/9/7/4/16273.pdf
For a finish, I was thinking of doing a live edge waterfall style table look, with the sub inset into the slab on the front. I'm not sure if my woodworking skills are up to that precision though. Alternatively I could have the live edge go the other way with a waterfall down both sides, but I think the contrast between the edge and the sub will seem less striking.
Finally, I do not know where to mount the plate amps. I do not want to have them external, so either I cut a hole in the back panel and mouth them there, or I create another amp chamber on the back of the box, separate from the sub chamber. I do not know how much of a difference the plate amp in the sub chamber vs. a separate chamber makes. Could use advice.
Thoughts on my plan? Any suggestions?
The plate amp in the sub chamber or a separate chamber should make no difference as long as the volume occupied by it is accounted for.
Hiding separate AC and signal cords is more difficult than hiding a speaker cord, remote amp location may actually be a cleaner look, and avoids the potential of a rattling plate chassis.
The Adire Shiva plans seem to suggest that "room gain" will compensate for the falling low frequency response of the sealed subwoofer, while that probably won't be the case, especially since your sub location is fixed by decor. Plan for equalization if you don't want to compromise on audio performance.
Good luck with the woodworking skills, practice makes better !
Hiding separate AC and signal cords is more difficult than hiding a speaker cord, remote amp location may actually be a cleaner look, and avoids the potential of a rattling plate chassis.
The Adire Shiva plans seem to suggest that "room gain" will compensate for the falling low frequency response of the sealed subwoofer, while that probably won't be the case, especially since your sub location is fixed by decor. Plan for equalization if you don't want to compromise on audio performance.
Good luck with the woodworking skills, practice makes better !
Thanks @weltersys
I was thinking of using a wireless sub extender instead of audio cables, like the one from SVS.
Would you suggest I consider a ported design instead?
I was thinking of using a wireless sub extender instead of audio cables, like the one from SVS.
Would you suggest I consider a ported design instead?
The SVS SoundPath Wireless Audio Adapter still requires it's 5 VDC power supply connected to a 120V AC outlet, and introduces 14 milliseconds of delay (latency) to the signal.
Ported designs offer more SPL (sound pressure level) above box tuning (Fb) than a sealed box, but generally require a larger box than sealed. Both ported or sealed designs benefit from equalization.
Ported designs offer more SPL (sound pressure level) above box tuning (Fb) than a sealed box, but generally require a larger box than sealed. Both ported or sealed designs benefit from equalization.
You have convinced me to use an external amp. I have a Behringer A500 I can put into duty which should fit the bill. I have a Yamaha RX-A700 receiver and I do not know if it can do any kind of sub EQ. Manual does not say explicitly though it does have their YPAO technology. I think that just manages levels rather than fine tuning frequency.
On another note, I came across some Whiskey Barrel's today. I am considering taking a single barrel slicing it in two and making 2 half barrel enclosures. Some inspiration here: https://www.avsforum.com/threads/wine-barrel-sub-table.2981510/
I would mount the sub downfiring into the barrel narrow endcap, and either finish the other end with a MDF top with wine corks in epoxy as he did, or get some tree slices of that diameter as the top of the table. For feet I would use 1.5" PVC tubes painted the same shade as the metal straps and sunk into smaller diameter tree slices.
I would do a sealed, not ported version, and use an external amp with equalization to get the right SQ. Any thoughts on whether this is a bad plan performance wise?
On another note, I came across some Whiskey Barrel's today. I am considering taking a single barrel slicing it in two and making 2 half barrel enclosures. Some inspiration here: https://www.avsforum.com/threads/wine-barrel-sub-table.2981510/
I would mount the sub downfiring into the barrel narrow endcap, and either finish the other end with a MDF top with wine corks in epoxy as he did, or get some tree slices of that diameter as the top of the table. For feet I would use 1.5" PVC tubes painted the same shade as the metal straps and sunk into smaller diameter tree slices.
I would do a sealed, not ported version, and use an external amp with equalization to get the right SQ. Any thoughts on whether this is a bad plan performance wise?
In theory, zero spacing and speakers heavy enough to keep them from vibrating, though ~1/8" thick isolation tabs has no audible impact IME. For comparison, back in the early '70s I learned the hard way that even a somewhat heavy speaker setting on a new shag carpet in a fairly well damped room lost an audible amount of LF output, so recommend experimenting with an existing speaker and experiment if wanting to space the barrels up for whatever reason.