I'm trying to decide on an enclosure for some Coral Beta 6" drivers. It was going to be a Hedlund but right now I'm thinking about the Frugel-Horn Spawn. Is there a review anywhere comparing a Hedlund vs Iris vs Hiro vs KimChi Chang ?
Thanks,
Andrew
Thanks,
Andrew
Not as far as I know, though given that they all have completely different design objectives, they'll all sound very different. I wouldn't like to say how any would work with the Beta 6 though, given the lack of available T/S parameters.
Hi,
I've managed to dig up some information on these.
Max Power 30W
Impedance 8 ohm
Res frekv 50 Hz
Frequency range 50-20000 Hz
Mms 6,5 g
Effective cone radius 67 mm
Qs (Qts?) 0,55
Spl 93 db
Qo 0,36
Flux density 12300 Gauss
Total flux 83000 Maxwell
Dont take these figures as absolute truth, its just what I can find.
These drivers have a wonderful build quality, some say they are better than Lowther and Fostex.
Haven't heard Beta 6 but I have a pair of Beta 8. They are very good.
I think I will never sell them. They are too beautiful.
😀
I've managed to dig up some information on these.
Max Power 30W
Impedance 8 ohm
Res frekv 50 Hz
Frequency range 50-20000 Hz
Mms 6,5 g
Effective cone radius 67 mm
Qs (Qts?) 0,55
Spl 93 db
Qo 0,36
Flux density 12300 Gauss
Total flux 83000 Maxwell
Dont take these figures as absolute truth, its just what I can find.
These drivers have a wonderful build quality, some say they are better than Lowther and Fostex.
Haven't heard Beta 6 but I have a pair of Beta 8. They are very good.
I think I will never sell them. They are too beautiful.
😀
Yes, that's all I've ever found over the past few years. Not enough for me to want to risk designing something with them, except possibly a traditional, pre-T/S BR or similar.
Maybe try those in OB & do a hybrid design, they most likely accept OB easy as most good Coral FR's don't have shouty peaky nature to em & can be ran filter free. I do it with a cousin to em. PIM.
J & G
J & G
??
Excuse my ignorance but what's that in English ? 🙂
Andrew
ps: perhaps some moderator will recognise I'm not a loony and let me post in real time ?
Hello,
No enclosure.
I would put the 6 on a baffle twice is diameter for width. Then also use bottom end OB support, if even low end is wanted on top of the OB bass support then just use a sub Ox'ed very low. You cold just roll a good OB friendly 12 or 15" in w/ a single coil 4mh to try or so. You coould try the Beta 6 fullrange 1st, the HP it if you want higher SPL. OB stands for Open Baffle. I would not run it in OB without open baffle bass support. It is easy & very good sounding. I have yet to run a Coral driver that had a piecing peak to it in OB & allways run them filter free, as in notches & all that life sucking stuff. You might have to pad the Beta 6 for balance, but it can be done without this if you bi-amp, but if single amp just pad it with high quality resistors, or transformer which is subjectively best.
This will sound much better than anyone here will concede to.
J & G
No enclosure.
I would put the 6 on a baffle twice is diameter for width. Then also use bottom end OB support, if even low end is wanted on top of the OB bass support then just use a sub Ox'ed very low. You cold just roll a good OB friendly 12 or 15" in w/ a single coil 4mh to try or so. You coould try the Beta 6 fullrange 1st, the HP it if you want higher SPL. OB stands for Open Baffle. I would not run it in OB without open baffle bass support. It is easy & very good sounding. I have yet to run a Coral driver that had a piecing peak to it in OB & allways run them filter free, as in notches & all that life sucking stuff. You might have to pad the Beta 6 for balance, but it can be done without this if you bi-amp, but if single amp just pad it with high quality resistors, or transformer which is subjectively best.
This will sound much better than anyone here will concede to.
J & G
I managed to find some more data for these drivers (or something close).
Parameter Coral Flat 6B
Fo 68Hz
Qms 5.671
Qes 0.433
Qts 0.402
Vas 31.346 L
These are actually for the coral flat 6 rather then Beta 6 but might be reasonably close.
I'm leaning towards an Frugal Spawn Iris V1.1 right now. Anyone care to speculate as to whether or not that might be a good match ?
Edit: yeah - I've been un-moderated 🙂
Andrew
Parameter Coral Flat 6B
Fo 68Hz
Qms 5.671
Qes 0.433
Qts 0.402
Vas 31.346 L
These are actually for the coral flat 6 rather then Beta 6 but might be reasonably close.
I'm leaning towards an Frugal Spawn Iris V1.1 right now. Anyone care to speculate as to whether or not that might be a good match ?
Edit: yeah - I've been un-moderated 🙂
Andrew
If the 6s follow the 8's spec pattern, then the flat 6's specs aren't even close to the beta 6's, certainly not close enough for finding an acceptable horn alignment.
GM
GM
The Coral Flat 6 is not similar. Its a completely different driver, inferior in every regard to Beta 6.
If you really want to build Frugal Horns Iris or whatever, you should be prepared to use them with other drivers.
The chance that the Beta 6 should happen to have the right parameters are at best very slim, if not bordering to non existant.
Please correct me, if I am wrong.
My advice is:
Take JandGs advice!
Im tempted to try open baffle myself with my Beta 8's.
Had a pair of Quad ESL's once, still remember the shocking clarity, speed and spatial presentation these were capable of.
Low sensitivity and dynamics, but sounded sort of dynamic anyway.
Bottom line is that these were dipoles, electrostic speakers are always dipoles (?), that is, open baffles.
Open baffles have little or no box coloration because of no box.
Also easier to build compared with a box. OK, you need some bass also, really need.
If you really want to build Frugal Horns Iris or whatever, you should be prepared to use them with other drivers.
The chance that the Beta 6 should happen to have the right parameters are at best very slim, if not bordering to non existant.
Please correct me, if I am wrong.
My advice is:
Take JandGs advice!
Im tempted to try open baffle myself with my Beta 8's.
Had a pair of Quad ESL's once, still remember the shocking clarity, speed and spatial presentation these were capable of.
Low sensitivity and dynamics, but sounded sort of dynamic anyway.
Bottom line is that these were dipoles, electrostic speakers are always dipoles (?), that is, open baffles.
Open baffles have little or no box coloration because of no box.
Also easier to build compared with a box. OK, you need some bass also, really need.
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