E-speakers 4001-1601 ref.

has anyone have tried to build these speakers before.
http://www.e-speakers.com/products/diy.html
I just now completing the cabinets. they are 7.2 cu ft after internal bracing and other volumes .
will be using a pair of Tad 1602 bass drivers and JBL 2345 horn with 2420 driver.
now I have a few questions , how do I know how much stuffing to add ? and where.
2 the voice coils are off set 5.5 inches between the bass drivers and the horn driver ,what would be the best way to correct the time alinement / phase alinement/
as for now I will be using crown VFX2 active x-over.
Is there any afordible sound correction systems out there?
 
if this was your project

I feel I need to make this at least a 3 way system, if this was your project what approch would you do for the lower midrange section, and cross over points for the cleanest system posible
as you can see in the att. earler in this post I'm using 2 tad 1602 bass drivers and JBL 2420 horn driver , 2345 horn ( later up graded to the wood smith 1200 hz horn) on each side.
please give your advice. thankx
 
kartsmart said:
Hummm no comments , is it that no one like this project ?


The 2420 is too rolled off on top in my experiance - the JBL horn is OK for hifi - there are better solutions - the dual 1602's in a bass reflex will be nearly impossible to mate with the compression driver - It makes more sense to build a single bass horn per side (say 50 Hz flare) and use the remaining two 1602's in a single mono nearfield sub.
 

roddyama

diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
2002-01-19 9:25 am
Michigan
Magnetar said:



The 2420 is too rolled off on top in my experiance - the JBL horn is OK for hifi - there are better solutions - the dual 1602's in a bass reflex will be nearly impossible to mate with the compression driver - It makes more sense to build a single bass horn per side (say 50 Hz flare) and use the remaining two 1602's in a single mono nearfield sub.

I agree with Magnetar on the 2420 rolloff and that you're going to have a difficult, if not impossible time trying to match the 1602's with the 2420's. This is particularly true because because you cannot use the 2420's much below 800Hz.

An alterntive to the midbass horn is a midbass driver (or 2) per side. If you have the 1602's in the stereo cabinets with the other drivers you can cross to the midbasses in the 200 - 300Hz range. This is similar to the JBL 4343 studio monitor configuration. If you run seperate sub bass units (I like stereo subs) you'll need to cross in the 100Hz range or lower. This severly narrows your selection of midbass units available to you.

Incidently, in the JBL 4343 configuration, you can cross to the 2420's in the 1200Hz range making for a smoother transition. Than all you will need to do is add a good horn tweeter to deal with 10kHz and up.

Good Luck
 

roddyama

diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
2002-01-19 9:25 am
Michigan
kartsmart said:
Rodd thats what I had In mind, can anyone sugest a good driver that would run in the 100 0r 200 to 1200 hz to fill this gap
or would a horn loaded cone driver serve this purpuse thanks
Kartsmart,

Try as I might, I couldn't find any of the numerous discussions we've had on this forum about midbass drivers.:( So I'll try to name a few, but first we must make a distinction between 100Hz low cutoff and 200Hz low cutoff.

At a 200Hz low cutoff or higher, the number of avaible driver multiply exponetially. As you lower the low cutoff to 100Hz and below you end up with only a hand full of possibilities.

At 200Hz and above you can pick for nearly any of the pro sound guys (JBL, TAD, Gauss,...) and they will all have a few drivers or more that will work well in this range. Taking it out to 1200Hz put a bit of a limitation on you but still not as badas the lower low cutoff will. To use it up to the 1200Hz range, you'll have to consider the drivers ability to match with the horn, its ability to disperse the sound and how well it will be able to articulate at that frequency. These constraints will cut your possible selection in half (estimation on my part).

There are also a number of "not-so-pro" drivers available for this range from any number of manufacturers.

When you ask the driver to work down to 100Hz or lower is when things get difficult. I use the JBL LE10A's paired up per side down to about 80Hz. In the Pass Labs Rushmores the midbass is handled by PHL.
There's a good discussion on that at this link.

So you need to decide how low you need your midbass to go.