Guys,
i was going to get a pair of these
http://www.fullcompass.com/common/files/2839-XP509 Community specs.pdf
at a pawn shop but they wanted 400 for the pair
and since the drivers seems to be in very bad condition i decided to build my own
ported boxed cabinets
what do you suggest, i prefer non trapezoidal as is it harder to do the cuts on the plywood, a rectangular box will be better
any pointers ?
i plan to furnish the box with neodymium drivers
and use 1/2 plywood with internal bracing
to make the box not too heavy
3015LF or 15NDL76 to say some in paralleled to get 4 ohms per cab
Thanks
i was going to get a pair of these
http://www.fullcompass.com/common/files/2839-XP509 Community specs.pdf
at a pawn shop but they wanted 400 for the pair
and since the drivers seems to be in very bad condition i decided to build my own
ported boxed cabinets
what do you suggest, i prefer non trapezoidal as is it harder to do the cuts on the plywood, a rectangular box will be better
any pointers ?
i plan to furnish the box with neodymium drivers
and use 1/2 plywood with internal bracing
to make the box not too heavy
3015LF or 15NDL76 to say some in paralleled to get 4 ohms per cab
Thanks
What amp will you use?
What type of music?
What size of box.
The FatalPro 18" neo is not much more expensive.
What type of music?
What size of box.
The FatalPro 18" neo is not much more expensive.
What amp will you use?
What type of music?
What size of box.
The FatalPro 18" neo is not much more expensive.
Music is ballad/pop with 2 live singers, keyboards and drum machines
live electric bass sometimes, but mostly 2 singers with arranger keyboard and drum machines
the size of the box , i like the size of that dual 15 from community
so i prefer a dual 15 than a dual 18 ,,, too large
mostly indoor venues
i have 2 peavey pr12 and with the mid highs spl's i am ok
but i lack the low end ompth so thats why i am looking to make a sub
i have a crown XLS drivecore 2000
and dbx driverack PA... at last... Sigh!
If you are going to dual reflex -- think PPSL.
Jbell,
any ponters , i found this
http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/vt.mpl?f=hug&m=161240
Last edited:
Welter
fact is that i do not want ( and dont have the knowledge ) to sim and test designs
i want something that is already designed and with plans
so i just build and use
any plans that you can link me to for some PPSL tried and good design
DJK's designs in the two links are good.Welter
fact is that i do not want ( and dont have the knowledge ) to sim and test designs
i want something that is already designed and with plans
so i just build and use
any plans that you can link me to for some PPSL tried and good design
If you are going to use 1/2", use a lot of bracing.
DJK's designs in the two links are good.
If you are going to use 1/2", use a lot of bracing.
Welter can you paste the links to the right post
i tried to follow but filtering the info from 34 pages
is not easy
Last edited:
Ok i have found this plans on the 18sound website
is a dual 15" push pull design
Eighteen Sound Kits
is a dual 15" push pull design
Eighteen Sound Kits
I checked that plan. To me that's no sub. The response drops and there is no output below 30Hz. That is a PA bass cab to me.
You must decide by yourself, what kind of output you want. Music doesn't have much below 31Hz but movies with a LFE audio channel do.
How much spl do you want? Do you live in an apartment or a house. How big room, what material are walls? What size is the room? Do you want to scare the neighbors?
If you need a really low-going HT sub, it must be a really low-tuned BR or closed box system. Then give some max size and try to find driver elements that work well in that composition. Simulation are a good help here. With well matched parts you'll get lots of good sub-bass and bass (25-100Hz) with less than 100W.
Sorry, I don't want to give examples, there are milllion ways to go.
Please google for Sonotube sub or LLT sub (usually 1x15")
Personally I go the easy way with large closed cabs now. I'm not happy with BR-subs.
You must decide by yourself, what kind of output you want. Music doesn't have much below 31Hz but movies with a LFE audio channel do.
How much spl do you want? Do you live in an apartment or a house. How big room, what material are walls? What size is the room? Do you want to scare the neighbors?
If you need a really low-going HT sub, it must be a really low-tuned BR or closed box system. Then give some max size and try to find driver elements that work well in that composition. Simulation are a good help here. With well matched parts you'll get lots of good sub-bass and bass (25-100Hz) with less than 100W.
Sorry, I don't want to give examples, there are milllion ways to go.
Please google for Sonotube sub or LLT sub (usually 1x15")
Personally I go the easy way with large closed cabs now. I'm not happy with BR-subs.
Juhazi,
i think you missed this info that i posted on an earlier post on this thread
Music is ballad/pop with 2 live singers, keyboards and drum machines
live electric bass sometimes, but mostly 2 singers with arranger keyboard and drum machines
the size of the box , i like the size of that dual 15 from community
so i prefer a dual 15 than a dual 18 ,,, too large
mostly indoor venues 100-250 people
i have 2 peavey pr12 and with the mid highs spl's i am ok
but i lack the low end ompth so thats why i am looking to make a sub
i have a crown XLS drivecore 2000
and dbx driverack PA... at last... Sigh!
No cinema sound.. PA sound
i think you missed this info that i posted on an earlier post on this thread
Music is ballad/pop with 2 live singers, keyboards and drum machines
live electric bass sometimes, but mostly 2 singers with arranger keyboard and drum machines
the size of the box , i like the size of that dual 15 from community
so i prefer a dual 15 than a dual 18 ,,, too large
mostly indoor venues 100-250 people
i have 2 peavey pr12 and with the mid highs spl's i am ok
but i lack the low end ompth so thats why i am looking to make a sub
i have a crown XLS drivecore 2000
and dbx driverack PA... at last... Sigh!
No cinema sound.. PA sound
I prefer DJK's slot load designs to the 18 sound PP, which wastes too much space for the plenum, reducing effective cabinet volume and lessening the positive effects of PP.Welter can you paste the links to the right post
i tried to follow but filtering the info from 34 pages
is not easy
DJK's plans are in the second and third post, with links to more designs:
High Efficiency Speaker Asylum
And you may want to read my comments in post #7 😉.
Art
That's weird, something went wrong when I copied the link.Art,
i only see 2 posts on the link you gave me...
i am missing something
Use the link you provided in post #6.
That's weird, something went wrong when I copied the link.
Use the link you provided in post #6.
Cant find the plans
and recommended drivers
If you really want a PPSL instead of a TH, like a SS15, I can whip up drawings a dual 15 on something cheap, like the dayton pa380, or something like that, in 200liters tuned to 40hz. It should do low to possibly mid 120's. The push pull slot load would be a ton cleaner than just a basic reflex cabinet, but not much more involved in construction.
You have a budget for neo drivers? and are planning on using one channel of your amp for subs, and one channel for your pair of tops?
You have a budget for neo drivers? and are planning on using one channel of your amp for subs, and one channel for your pair of tops?
From your link in post #6:Cant find the plans
and recommended drivers
Attachments
Jim,The push pull slot load would be a ton cleaner than just a basic reflex cabinet, but not much more involved in construction.
Did you do any testing to confirm what "a ton cleaner" actually is in THD% ?
Art
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