Looking for sub setup to go under cabinet. Space I have to work with is 7.5" tall 12" deep and 34" wide. I can get right at 8" tall and 10" deep letting box go up behind face of cabinet. I was thinking something like pony sub etc. And double it basically building two in one piece. Budget for sub or subs and crossovers around $200 would be great. I am a wood worker and metal fabricator with many years running car audio shop. Just say that as a complicated box design that makes smaller less expensive subs do the job I would love.
Another though was to see how much room is in bottom of the cabinet and building something to slide in it. But not sure on vibration noises.
Hk3390 reciever . Set of cabasse antigua 222's right now. Will be building overnight sensations MTM's after sub to replace them. Room is 15x24 . I sit 10ft straight from speakers. I like blues and classical older music from frank Sinatra to queen and so on. Wide range I know. Blues is my favorite and most played.
Looking to do a 2.1 system I can also use for movies. I use just the cabasse at moment. Sound bar in pic needs to go to garbage. Lol
Side note, what's opinion on center channel? And do you think the sensations is enough listening at moderate levels? For reference I am happy with volume of the Antigua's. Just moved living room into this configuration though and want to do something custom.
That's all the details I can think of. If there's questions on something please ask. I am very serious and not just day dreaming and respect alot of your opinions.
Another though was to see how much room is in bottom of the cabinet and building something to slide in it. But not sure on vibration noises.
Hk3390 reciever . Set of cabasse antigua 222's right now. Will be building overnight sensations MTM's after sub to replace them. Room is 15x24 . I sit 10ft straight from speakers. I like blues and classical older music from frank Sinatra to queen and so on. Wide range I know. Blues is my favorite and most played.
Looking to do a 2.1 system I can also use for movies. I use just the cabasse at moment. Sound bar in pic needs to go to garbage. Lol
Side note, what's opinion on center channel? And do you think the sensations is enough listening at moderate levels? For reference I am happy with volume of the Antigua's. Just moved living room into this configuration though and want to do something custom.
That's all the details I can think of. If there's questions on something please ask. I am very serious and not just day dreaming and respect alot of your opinions.
Last edited:
I just googled DIY under couch subwoofer.
but here is another one.
https://www.amazon.com/Theater-Solu...KNPA12E4089&psc=1&refRID=HGV47VS2KKNPA12E4089
but here is another one.
https://www.amazon.com/Theater-Solu...KNPA12E4089&psc=1&refRID=HGV47VS2KKNPA12E4089
https://billfitzmaurice.info/AutoTruckTuba.html " TruckTuba has similar response to AutoTuba in a narrow box. The front dimension is 24 x 36 inches, and it can be made as shallow as 5 inches
"
It is for cars and needs cabin gain to boost the low end. Not so good for a room.
Go for a sealed sub and the low end gets a boost from your room, that compensates for the gentle roll off. Not the most efficient, but best SQ and you probably will never use it at max levels.
It is for cars and needs cabin gain to boost the low end. Not so good for a room.
Go for a sealed sub and the low end gets a boost from your room, that compensates for the gentle roll off. Not the most efficient, but best SQ and you probably will never use it at max levels.
Last edited:
The Tangband 38Hz Tapped Horn – Volvotreter Homepage
Looking hard at this setup. I really wanna do something under cabinet. I should probably through a powered sub to the side and be done. What's the fun in that though.
Looking hard at this setup. I really wanna do something under cabinet. I should probably through a powered sub to the side and be done. What's the fun in that though.
From post #1
" Looking to do a 2.1 system I can also use for movies."
So you want good low end.
The Tangband 38Hz Tapped Horn has even less low end. (<40hz)
I assume you don't need discotheque sound levels at home, so better trade output for SQ and low end.
Sealed sounds best and is easiest to integrate in your room (room gain) and system.
Go for 2x sealed as 2 sound often better then one due to better placement options. 2nd sub gives +6dB. Better get 2 small ones then 1 big one, but in general bigger goes lower.
With a sealed box(es), the shape is up to you and is most flexible as there is no horn or port to fit in and tune correct. Woofers best face a corner/wall instead of forwards like most setups.
" Looking to do a 2.1 system I can also use for movies."
So you want good low end.
The Tangband 38Hz Tapped Horn has even less low end. (<40hz)
I assume you don't need discotheque sound levels at home, so better trade output for SQ and low end.
Sealed sounds best and is easiest to integrate in your room (room gain) and system.
Go for 2x sealed as 2 sound often better then one due to better placement options. 2nd sub gives +6dB. Better get 2 small ones then 1 big one, but in general bigger goes lower.
With a sealed box(es), the shape is up to you and is most flexible as there is no horn or port to fit in and tune correct. Woofers best face a corner/wall instead of forwards like most setups.
Thanks for reply. Yea I'm thinking about doing a 8" inside that cabinet where old speakers went. Theres a big void at bottom. Maybe even have them fire back at wall. Sealed or basic ported. Use a dayton sub as they are easier to port than tang band if I go ported.
From post #1
" Looking to do a 2.1 system I can also use for movies."
So you want good low end.
The Tangband 38Hz Tapped Horn has even less low end. (<40hz)
I assume you don't need discotheque sound levels at home, so better trade output for SQ and low end.
Sealed sounds best and is easiest to integrate in your room (room gain) and system.
Go for 2x sealed as 2 sound often better then one due to better placement options. 2nd sub gives +6dB. Better get 2 small ones then 1 big one, but in general bigger goes lower.
With a sealed box(es), the shape is up to you and is most flexible as there is no horn or port to fit in and tune correct. Woofers best face a corner/wall instead of forwards like most setups.
Just a quick note: search this driver's various DIY designs for compact woofer apps or use for your custom needs: https://www.newark.com/mcm-audio-select/55-2421/8-high-excursion-woofer-120w-rms/dp/88C7835
GM
GM
That particular driver, the MCM 55-2421, has always intrigued me. A 8" driver with a 16mm Xmax for only $29? Something can't be right here. The Dayton DCS205, which is a decent but cheap 8" subwoofer driver, is $20 more...
I suspect that 16mm Xmax is a peak-to-peak rating, so it's more like 8mm when comparing with other drivers that have Xmax defined properly, which still isn't too bad, but more like what I'd expect from an 8" driver with what seems to be an ordinary suspension and "cup" type spider.
I ran a tracer on the impedance plot, ran the resulting ZMA file through the semi-inductance workbook and it came up with the following specs:
Fs: 24.5 Hz
Qes: 0.219
Qms: 515.986 (!!)
Re': 4.04 Ohms
Leb: 0.702 mH
Le: 4.008 mH
Ke: 0.274 sH
Rss: 252.812 Ohms
Of course that Qms figure is ridiculously high, and I'd just use the published Qms instead - it's not going to make much difference to Qts anyway.
I've seen this driver suggested for TH designs, but some sims I've done suggest that a simpler offset 1/4 wave damped line will produce similar results, without all of the out of band nastiness that you can get with a TL.
I'd never build something for that driver without fully testing its t/s parameters though 🙂
I suspect that 16mm Xmax is a peak-to-peak rating, so it's more like 8mm when comparing with other drivers that have Xmax defined properly, which still isn't too bad, but more like what I'd expect from an 8" driver with what seems to be an ordinary suspension and "cup" type spider.
I ran a tracer on the impedance plot, ran the resulting ZMA file through the semi-inductance workbook and it came up with the following specs:
Fs: 24.5 Hz
Qes: 0.219
Qms: 515.986 (!!)
Re': 4.04 Ohms
Leb: 0.702 mH
Le: 4.008 mH
Ke: 0.274 sH
Rss: 252.812 Ohms
Of course that Qms figure is ridiculously high, and I'd just use the published Qms instead - it's not going to make much difference to Qts anyway.
I've seen this driver suggested for TH designs, but some sims I've done suggest that a simpler offset 1/4 wave damped line will produce similar results, without all of the out of band nastiness that you can get with a TL.
I'd never build something for that driver without fully testing its t/s parameters though 🙂
Attachments
The measured specs for this driver are in the forums.
MCM 55-2421 T/S Parameters and thoughts
Would you mind sharing the details of your TL simulation?
MCM 55-2421 T/S Parameters and thoughts
Would you mind sharing the details of your TL simulation?