diy omega max hemp clones

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I've you've got the space (and the corners), consider a BIB.
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp If you need a small footpring, look at a metronome (also on Planet10's sites). It would need baffle step compensation (where as the BIB definitely won't and the Dimitri probably won't), so you'll lose some efficiency. If you want something even smaller there is an MLTL design kicking around here somewhere.

Don't build a regular bass reflex enclosure unless you really must for space reasons. Any of these will offer much better bass and greater ease and dynamic range due to the greater control of excursion. I started off with a BR, and the BIB is a whole different world.

pj
 
Cut plans spreadsheet for BIB

Hi Dave,

I'm new here and am looking to build my first set of DIY. The BIB looks like an easy way to go. Any recs for someone who likes acoustic, jazz, bluegrass, blues, and classical tending toward large scale? I'm also a fan of fostex, so anything "synergenical" (if that is a word) along those lines would be appreciated.

Any recommendations along those lines would be appreciated, as well as other enclosures you consider looking at?

Much appreciated,
Tony
 
Tony,

We've not actually built a BIB yet, when we do it will be for the FE126 or FE127 likely. Everyone has their favorites depending on which compromises they find easiest to live with.

There is a monster BIB thread here -- so large that it can be intimidating -- and some shorter more specific threads.

1st question to ask is what amp you are going to use, and what is your room like?

dave
 
>>> Any recs for someone who likes acoustic, jazz, bluegrass, blues, and classical tending toward large scale?

For larger scale it would be best to use one of the 6 inch or larger Fostex drivers in a BIB. I find the 127e can sound congested in stock form - never heard an enabled one. All of the Fostex drivers i have heard become congested at high volumes. The larger drivers just handle it better - imo.

>>> what amp you are going to use, and what is your room like?

Yes, how much power will you be using and how big is your room?

Godzilla
 
Godzilla said:
never heard an enabled one.

You need to put yourself a kit together... the other day with the Monarchy SM70s i had to go put my fingers on the drivers to make sure the voice coils weren't getting too hot. EnABL certainly increases how loud you can go before corruption sets in -- at least it sure seems like that.

dave
 
planet10 said:
Tony,

1st question to ask is what amp you are going to use, and what is your room like?

dave


Dave, thanks for the response. It was a late night for me and I apologize for getting into something off the thread topic.
BUT, now thatwe are there, I'll go ahead and fill in a few more of the blanks. Room size is roughly 15' x 15' x 9' ( however it's pretty certain that I 'll be moving sometime this year and have no idea what kinda of listening environment I'll have but it's likely to be along slightly larger dimensions). Ampwise I have the newer SI super t-amp, but have also recently acquired a Dynaco ST-70 with EL-34 tubes.

For reference sake, the "best" speaker I've had in my system was the first of the Omega SUper 3XRS (No hempcone) but the FE126.

Last thing is that I'm not tied to the BIB, just thought it would be an easy build. Anything else that you think that would better suit my needs for a speaker that will see a lot of larger scale classical bu also heavy doses of Jazz, Bluegrass, Blues.

Thanks again for everyone's help and input.

Regards,
Tony:)
 
doctor_vine said:
For reference sake, the "best" speaker I've had in my system was the first of the Omega SUper 3XRS (No hempcone) but the FE126.

I always was under the impression that this used the FE127e. To hit 40 Hz a 126 would need a horn (100 hz is about as good as you can get in a BR)

from the 6 moons review
"modified 4.5" shielded Fostex ES driver. The Foxtex's light 2.9-gram cone plus strong motor give an easy 93dB sensitivity suitable for low-powered amplifiers."

Shielded indicates FE127, but 93 dB sSensitivity would be a stretch

The FE127 (tweaked anyway, i can't listen to a stock one anymore) can be used to make some pretty special speakers, BIB included.

Last thing is that I'm not tied to the BIB, just thought it would be an easy build. Anything else that you think that would better suit my needs for a speaker that will see a lot of larger scale classical bu also heavy doses of Jazz, Bluegrass, Blues.

BIB is easy to build, but really needs a corner, a wall at least. Larger scale dynamics can benefit from a larger driver than FE127, or 126 (but active woofer(s)) go a long way to closing any gap.

You do want something fairly efficient as the T-amps are low power, and tweaked to be its best the ST70 puts out about the same power.

dave
 
Thanks again Dave,

I had trouble finding the refs for the older Omega Super 3 XRS, so I just assumed to was the Fe 126 b/c of the stated 93dB efficiency.

In any case, my point and question herein is that given your expertise and my goal of building a loudspeaker that will suit a lower power amp, be a good compromise for listening to larger classical works, jazz, blues and bluegrass, without ties to any particular speaker (although I do like fostex) and enclosure, what combination in ya'lls experince would b a good fit?

Again I welcome any and appreciate all feedback.

Thanks so much,
Tony
 
There are a LOT of good choices...it is getting harder & harder to make a dud... don't make me pick one for you :)

Even in my biggish room, with my 5W SE, the FE127eN gets the most time hooked up (not necessarily the same one (althou it is currently an experimentak set of FE108eS in Aiko). If i has real corners the Frugel-Horns would get more use, and i do have to free up a set of 126 for the Ron Horns now that i can get them up against the wall, Everytome i hook up a set of bigger drivers i'm not long before the little ones are back*, because i miss the midrange (so i'm working on some helper woofers (more to take some of the load off the 127s than for the bass) -- but not to fast, i probably won't know i'm missing them till i get used to them being there). At some point Harvey or Gabriel (or Gabriele, the curvy version), might well mitigate the need for even that.

*(except for the Visaton B200 -- the big baffles are the culprits there)

The discovery of how really good the FF85k is (and the arrival of a proto of a new 2" Aluminum cone mid-tweeter) will have us playing with FAST. A version of MJK baffle, and i'm playing woth the idea of MTM with FF85k and 350 Hz XO. Curvy Chang is also in the schedule -- i need something to work out my series XO ideas with the 207 & the FT17.

Here is a set of steps to help you choose... 1st a general guidline on pros and cons of driver sizes

Choosing a FR means you have to choose your tradeoffs... i'll just tick off a general ones ...

1/ bigger drivers tend to be more efficient than little ones (which mean they play louder with a small amp)

2/ smaller drivers usually have better mids & tops.

3/ bigger drivers go lower & tend to be able to do dynamics better

4/ small drivers usually go in smaller boxes, with higher WAF, and lower cost to build

5/ bigger drivers tend to cost more (and i haven't meet a driver i can't improve)

6/ and a corollary to 5... a modded small driver for the price of a similar priced large driver will usually have more finese. (disclousure: i sell modded drivers)

Now goinf thru the myriad of designs, toss the ones that won't work due to your room, cost, size, aesthetics, your amp(s), too hard to build, whim (ie no corners, BIBs or Frugel-Horns won't work to their best). Take what remains and pick the ones you like the best. Now take the short list to your significant other and ask them which one.

The other approach (more or less the one we use here) ... just start working your way thru them all (then it isn't which one to build, but which one to build next)

dave
 
planet10 said:
There are a LOT of good choices...it is getting harder & harder to make a dud... don't make me pick one for you :)

Even in my biggish room, with my 5W SE, the FE127eN gets the most time hooked up (not necessarily the same one (althou it is currently an experimentak set of FE108eS in Aiko). If i has real corners the Frugel-Horns would get more use, and i do have to free up a set of 126 for the Ron Horns now that i can get them up against the wall, Everytome i hook up a set of bigger drivers i'm not long before the little ones are back*, because i miss the midrange (so i'm working on some helper woofers (more to take some of the load off the 127s than for the bass) -- but not to fast, i probably won't know i'm missing them till i get used to them being there). At some point Harvey or Gabriel (or Gabriele, the curvy version), might well mitigate the need for even that.

*(except for the Visaton B200 -- the big baffles are the culprits there)

The discovery of how really good the FF85k is (and the arrival of a proto of a new 2" Aluminum cone mid-tweeter) will have us playing with FAST. A version of MJK baffle, and i'm playing woth the idea of MTM with FF85k and 350 Hz XO. Curvy Chang is also in the schedule -- i need something to work out my series XO ideas with the 207 & the FT17.

Here is a set of steps to help you choose... 1st a general guidline on pros and cons of driver sizes



Now goinf thru the myriad of designs, toss the ones that won't work due to your room, cost, size, aesthetics, your amp(s), too hard to build, whim (ie no corners, BIBs or Frugel-Horns won't work to their best). Take what remains and pick the ones you like the best. Now take the short list to your significant other and ask them which one.

The other approach (more or less the one we use here) ... just start working your way thru them all (then it isn't which one to build, but which one to build next)

dave

Dammit,
I wanted you to pick one for me!

That being said, I was seriously leaning towards your modded drivers. On top of that, I wont be able to successfully integrate corners into the set-up, so those corner-loving enclosures are out.
2) No concern about WAF.
3) I'd really like to stay away from xovers and try to integrate a sub instead
4)Compared to the Zu Druids which I intend to sell, cost is not a huge concern, but I'd like to keep it down so I have some $$ to experiment with other projects.
5) Considering the above, I've been considering in no particular order: Harvey, Mileva, floor standing fonken or Dallas II. Any of those you'd throw out or gravitate toward (especially considering i'd like to going in the direction of an Enabled driver?

Thanks again for your input and help.

Best Regards,
Tony
Tony
 
doctor_vine said:
5) Considering the above, I've been considering in no particular order: Harvey, Mileva, floor standing fonken or Dallas II. Any of those you'd throw out or gravitate toward (especially considering i'd like to going in the direction of an Enabled driver?

On that list Mikasa would be at the top of our build list. The FS Fonken won't have the bass or the dynamics of the others -- its real purpose is for someone that needs something small but doesn't need stands. Dallas II would require patience as production FE206eN are a ways out (special order is possible -- i do have 1 R&D pair out, but no reports back yet as the Sachiko is still under construction) -- my preference with the RonHorns would be A166 if efficiency & dynamics trumped midrange finesse (ie A126 <- we have a pair of those). For the 8" drivers i'm leaning towards Curvy Chang (and 1 FE207eN R&D pair is still unspoken for but awaiting phase plugs)

dave
 
planet10 said:


On that list Mikasa would be at the top of our build list. The FS Fonken won't have the bass or the dynamics of the others -- its real purpose is for someone that needs something small but doesn't need stands. Dallas II would require patience as production FE206eN are a ways out (special order is possible -- i do have 1 R&D pair out, but no reports back yet as the Sachiko is still under construction) -- my preference with the RonHorns would be A166 if efficiency & dynamics trumped midrange finesse (ie A126 <- we have a pair of those). For the 8" drivers i'm leaning towards Curvy Chang (and 1 FE207eN R&D pair is still unspoken for but awaiting phase plugs)

dave

Thanks Dave,

Just a clarification however. You mentioned your modded A126 in the same sentence with suggesting A166 for the Ron Horns. Did I miss something here?

Also, with Mikasa looking a little too intimidating for me to attempt on my first go. Same with Curvey Chang. Any other recs for enclosures that would mate well with either the Enabled A126 or Fe207EN?

Thanks again for your help and patience,
Tony
 
doctor_vine said:
Just a clarification however. You mentioned your modded A126 in the same sentence with suggesting A166 for the Ron Horns. Did I miss something here?

You had mentioned Dallas II... i'd go with A166 before that, but over the A126 only if i was willing to give up midrange finess (A126) for Dynamics (A166)

Also, with Mikasa looking a little too intimidating for me to attempt on my first go. Same with Curvey Chang. Any other recs for enclosures that would mate well with either the Enabled A126 or Fe207EN?

Curvy Chang is easy (except maybe for the curved parts of the sides and there are a couple ways to handle that). A regular G Chang or halfChang would be simplier. The FE126 really wants to see a horn, so Mikasa, Saburo, Frugel-Horn or A126. With just straight cuts Mikasa or Saburo are actually easiest to build, just lots of pieces.

With a high output impedance amp and or series R 126 will work in the 3 available Changs for the FE12x drivers. Our personal experiemnts leave us feeling that what you might gain with the FE126 over the 127 in these is wiped out by the series R. Now if you have an F1 or F2 or a no feedback pentode amp, you may have the best of both worlds.

dave
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.