Hi all, I want to build a small, full range mono speaker for my mate but I've never undertaken this kind of build before so some guidance would be much appreciated.
Here's where I'm at with it:
This driver seems decent
Tang Band W5-1611SAF 5" Full Range Speaker
This amp is cheap and if I bridge it it should be be fine to power the above driver, no? There's an option to buy a power transformer with it, so I'd get that too.
Velleman 2 x 30W Audio Power Amplifier Kit K4003
I assume I'd need to solder a 230Vac input to the power transformer as well.
I've read a book on cabinet design so I get the gist of what's required for that, my question is, if I solder all of these things together as prescribed, and get the bridging right, will I have myself a working speaker? Or is there something hugely significant that I've missed out?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!
Here's where I'm at with it:
This driver seems decent
Tang Band W5-1611SAF 5" Full Range Speaker
This amp is cheap and if I bridge it it should be be fine to power the above driver, no? There's an option to buy a power transformer with it, so I'd get that too.
Velleman 2 x 30W Audio Power Amplifier Kit K4003
I assume I'd need to solder a 230Vac input to the power transformer as well.
I've read a book on cabinet design so I get the gist of what's required for that, my question is, if I solder all of these things together as prescribed, and get the bridging right, will I have myself a working speaker? Or is there something hugely significant that I've missed out?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!
I've had a heap of success building instrument mono amplifiers from the LM386 IC - all runs off DC (ie. the majority of 12V plug-packs that are everywhere), meaning you don't have to dick around with 240V, all parts will only cost a few dollars so if you (undoubtedly) kill something it won't matter.. Output isn't anything incredible and not exactly the most balanced response, but will be loud enough for a small room from a single 5" speaker.
Obviously it's not the most 'hi-fi' answer, but it's the perfect way to start if you're new to electronics. I'm sure there are better single-IC circuits out there (a quick google seems to suggest that the TDA7052 or any equivalents will work better, with around the same number of parts and a slightly higher supply voltage)
Obviously it's not the most 'hi-fi' answer, but it's the perfect way to start if you're new to electronics. I'm sure there are better single-IC circuits out there (a quick google seems to suggest that the TDA7052 or any equivalents will work better, with around the same number of parts and a slightly higher supply voltage)
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Cheers for your reply!
I've heard the LM386 crop up a lot in reference to noobie speaker builds, my only concern is the power output. Generally the max power output seems to be 1W with that chip whereas the driver im after is rated at 28W rms. I don't know the physics behind it but I've heard that if your amps clipping the signal you're liable to damage your driver(s). I'd imagine its possible to implement some sort of limiter to prevent this but I dunno how easy that would be.
I've heard the LM386 crop up a lot in reference to noobie speaker builds, my only concern is the power output. Generally the max power output seems to be 1W with that chip whereas the driver im after is rated at 28W rms. I don't know the physics behind it but I've heard that if your amps clipping the signal you're liable to damage your driver(s). I'd imagine its possible to implement some sort of limiter to prevent this but I dunno how easy that would be.
Cheers for your reply!
I've heard the LM386 crop up a lot in reference to noobie speaker builds, my only concern is the power output. Generally the max power output seems to be 1W with that chip whereas the driver im after is rated at 28W rms. I don't know the physics behind it but I've heard that if your amps clipping the signal you're liable to damage your driver(s). I'd imagine its possible to implement some sort of limiter to prevent this but I dunno how easy that would be.
I've run a LM386 into a 10" Eminence driver (albeit, designed for instrument purposes) for many, many hours straight with plenty of clipping and never has a single issue. Obviously this is only anecdotal, but I can't see how you could kill a speaker by massively underpowering it.
Are you overpowering it, pushing past mechanical limitations (such as Xmax)? No. Are you creating too much thermal build up? No. Even with a square wave (think incredibly, incredibly clipped) at 60Hz, the driver is going to be moving fast enough to get air moving around it and cooling.
For someone without much design know how, I would probably recommend a design that someone else has done using a fullrange speaker.
Maybe this?
Zaph|Audio
If you want more bass, use the second channel for a woofer?
Maybe this?
Zaph|Audio
If you want more bass, use the second channel for a woofer?
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