Do you want to design the power supply here, or are you asking for something else? Would need some specifications and limitations..
It simulates vertically. And yes , having the MDF with holes shipped and cut to the right size for the enclosure would be great. Just don't have the tools for a box
Ah, no problem. I was concerned PSU might stand for powered sub unit? When you say you have DSP, you don't have amps yet? Were you wanting to mount them in your speaker boxes or have shelf mounting units.
These are worth a read as background (ready designed systems)
This looks basically like what you are after - 3 way small monitor, high SPL with passive radiator(s)
The Ultimate Small Speaker, the Reference Mini Post Mortem Thread
This is a passive system and ported but a lot less expensive
Bookshelf-3WC
This looks basically like what you are after - 3 way small monitor, high SPL with passive radiator(s)
The Ultimate Small Speaker, the Reference Mini Post Mortem Thread
This is a passive system and ported but a lot less expensive
Bookshelf-3WC
Is this woofer Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4?
If so, then PR loaded cabinet would be a wrong decision. Sealed one offers superb performance in 1 cuft. You won't need any LT applied to it, itself delivers F3/F6/F10 =38/30/23 Hz. 50 Watts of power input pushes the woofer at 30 Hz to just below Xmax.
If so, then PR loaded cabinet would be a wrong decision. Sealed one offers superb performance in 1 cuft. You won't need any LT applied to it, itself delivers F3/F6/F10 =38/30/23 Hz. 50 Watts of power input pushes the woofer at 30 Hz to just below Xmax.
How about this one, baffle openings are yet to be done and a plastic cover cap Visaton AK 10.13 needed to isolate the midrange from the rest. Baffle comes with rounded edges, could be sent to a cnc shop to make the holes though. Cabinet is large enough to hold electronics, I suppose.
The first cabinets I made were done with a hand saw and the driver holes with a drill and fret saw. It was quite a challenge.
The first cabinets I made were done with a hand saw and the driver holes with a drill and fret saw. It was quite a challenge.
