Hello everyone !
I'm about to finish my first 2 way speakers. I have a problem where my speaker seem to be clipping at a certain volume (DIY 2-way speaker "clipping" - YouTube). It does that no matter the amp. Could this be due to a bad crossover design ? Or a result of my driver reaching its max power handling ?
Thanks again for your help
I'm about to finish my first 2 way speakers. I have a problem where my speaker seem to be clipping at a certain volume (DIY 2-way speaker "clipping" - YouTube). It does that no matter the amp. Could this be due to a bad crossover design ? Or a result of my driver reaching its max power handling ?
Thanks again for your help
Hi, it seems that the CDP is skipping, not the speakers that are clipping.
Yes, I was anxious to see the video where there would be some 'clipping' shown but I didn't see any over excursion nor distorted sound.
clipping=when the amplifier saturates and the electrical waveform ( envelope) gets chopped at the extremes
Yes, I was anxious to see the video where there would be some 'clipping' shown but I didn't see any over excursion nor distorted sound.
clipping=when the amplifier saturates and the electrical waveform ( envelope) gets chopped at the extremes
seem to be clipping at a certain volume (DIY 2-way speaker "clipping" - YouTube)
is this actually your video?
in the video the subwoofer continues to play and the satellites repeatedly mute in regular cycles.
either you have some kind of protection circuit, that goes into standby every 1-2 seconds and the turns on again or there is some other intermittend fault (power supply?). i suppose you have an active crossover?
nice boxes by the way!
Hi, it seems that the CDP is skipping, not the speakers that are clipping.
Yes, I was anxious to see the video where there would be some 'clipping' shown but I didn't see any over excursion nor distorted sound.
clipping=when the amplifier saturates and the electrical waveform ( envelope) gets chopped at the extremes
Ok, would make sense, but I have no idea what is CDP 😅 Can you please enlighten me 😁
is this actually your video?
in the video the subwoofer continues to play and the satellites repeatedly mute in regular cycles.
either you have some kind of protection circuit, that goes into standby every 1-2 seconds and the turns on again or there is some other intermittend fault (power supply?). i suppose you have an active crossover?
nice boxes by the way!
yes this is my video 🙂
It really depends on how loud I play, but not the amp... And I'm using amps capable of delivering 50W per channel with a 144W power supply. The woofer in these speaker is supposed to handle 35W, and i'mont playing that loud I think...
One of the amp has also a sub output and yes the sub keeps playing in the background, wich is weird 😅
compact disc player>>>skipping ( corrupted data )Ok, would make sense, but I have no idea what is CDP 😅 Can you please enlighten me 😁
But I see that this is not the sound I'm hearing 😱
I have a problem where my speaker seem to be clipping at a certain volume..
See, if this occurs with just about any amplifier, then maybe it's your power supply that is faulty. Are you using an SMPS? And if this happens irrespective of power, then the SMPS maybe oscillating, or else it's momentarily activation of some kind of protection feature. However, from the loudness heard in the video, the latter looks very unlikely.
Did you bypass the crossover and still get the same result?
compact disc player>>>skipping ( corrupted data )
But I see that this is not the sound I'm hearing 😱
I played music over bluetooth or wifi depending on the amp. In the video, it is via wifi, and the sub keeps playing...
Bad crossover design > bad impedance/phase seen by the amplifier
How do you think I could determine this ?
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See, if this occurs with just about any amplifier, then maybe it's your power supply that is faulty. Are you using an SMPS? And if this happens irrespective of power, then the SMPS maybe oscillating, or else it's momentarily activation of some kind of protection feature. However, from the loudness heard in the video, the latter looks very unlikely.
Did you bypass the crossover and still get the same result?
I will try bypassing the crossover and with another amp with its own power supply to be sure.
The impedance drops to just over 2 ohms in the high range, this is probably too low for most amps and they go into protection. You might want to increase both resistor values of the L-pad. Anyhow the low impedance in high frequencies seems strange. All drivers increase impedance with frequency - usually!
By the way: why do you cross over soooo high?
By the way: why do you cross over soooo high?
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Your impedance curve dips pretty low in two places over a fairly large area and if your amp isn't designed to drive 4 ohm loads, it will probably go into protect mode because of this.
The impedance drops to just over 2 ohms in the high range, this is probably too low for most amps and they go into protection. You might want to increase both resistor values of the L-pad. Anyhow the low impedance in high frequencies seems strange. All drivers increase impedance with frequency - usually!
By the way: why do you cross over soooo high?
You beat me to it... lol I didn't read the whole thread..
Since amplifiers / power supplies have no means to sense the impedance connected, they usually trip using current / temperature information. Therefore, even with a small impedance (say 2ohms), an amplifier whose output current is still within limits, may not trip at all. So, I think the OP must test with reduced power, easily achieved by reducing volume, running single channel, changing programme content etc.
Over-current protection can have response times in milliseconds or even lesser in some cases, like the cycle-by cycle protection schemes in some class-D amps/SMPS. However, due to the high thermal inertia of the die-package-heatsink combination, temperature changes remain comparatively slower, with time constants in the order of few seconds. Thus, overheating could be the reason, as already mentioned by fabricadetabaco.
Over-current protection can have response times in milliseconds or even lesser in some cases, like the cycle-by cycle protection schemes in some class-D amps/SMPS. However, due to the high thermal inertia of the die-package-heatsink combination, temperature changes remain comparatively slower, with time constants in the order of few seconds. Thus, overheating could be the reason, as already mentioned by fabricadetabaco.
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To check whether higher impedance solves the problem you could temporarily insert a series resistor (maybe 2 ohms or so) between one speaker connector and the cable, increasing the impedance by the value of the resistor.
Just checked the vid. Almost definitely a protection circuit switching the amp off. What amp do you use and how did you connect it all?
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