I'm looking for recommendations for a D class module to go with a pair of 3 way speakers I'm building.
Ideally the module would have 3 channels, two at about 50W & one at about 150W.
I'm after something that is know to be good😀
If you have any thoughts please put them forward.
David
Ideally the module would have 3 channels, two at about 50W & one at about 150W.
I'm after something that is know to be good😀
If you have any thoughts please put them forward.
David
Christi..
That sounds very interesting.. I am building some three way speakers soon with minidsp boards acting as crossovers and will require something similar. Do you have any more details or hints that will help me to decide how to amplify them?
Kind regards,
Jai Stanley
That sounds very interesting.. I am building some three way speakers soon with minidsp boards acting as crossovers and will require something similar. Do you have any more details or hints that will help me to decide how to amplify them?
Kind regards,
Jai Stanley
Hi Christi
Can you give us any advance specs? What is the noise floor like?
Edit: I would like to see an amp that has I2C inputs
Can you give us any advance specs? What is the noise floor like?
Edit: I would like to see an amp that has I2C inputs
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I will write the preliminary specs. and publish in my class D section in the following days. I2S inputs not I2C, right ?
Since im in the same boat as DQ828, i'll take the liberty of asking some questions my self 😉
Christi
What is your best sounding amp?
Your amps are much cheaper than Hypex UcD HG HxR modules. Can these be compared sound quality wise?
Im interested in all digital amp with S/PDIf in and DSP control (via USB) for crossovers and EQ. TI have some very nice examples of this (TAS5631). Will your solution be comparable?
41Hz Amp 9 has four channels, low distortion through a 24V supply, and can be purchased as an assembled board as of recently.
Connect the third and fourth inputs/outputs to make it three channels, ideal for the bass channel. I am using a couple of amp6's and a TA10.1 but hope to move to dual amp9s unless I see something better for similar money.
Connect the third and fourth inputs/outputs to make it three channels, ideal for the bass channel. I am using a couple of amp6's and a TA10.1 but hope to move to dual amp9s unless I see something better for similar money.
Its not urgent, but why in a few weeks from now?
It's ok the penny dropped, I'll keep my eye's peeled😀
Thanks for the link🙂
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Is connecting the inputs and outputs of the third channel of the amp 9 akin to bridging it? ie, will the new third channel make more power than a single channel?
I am going to be making a three way speaker with drivers I already have (all 8ohm unfortunately) and need power amps. Buying an amp9 and a minidsp would let me run my current two way speakers with an active crossover to learn/experiment with. As my budget increases I could build a second amp9 and buy another minidsp to run the three ways active (with the amp9 in three channel configuration).
It would be a nice 'modular' way to get to my target: three way speakers and dual subs with two minidsp units doing crossovers, room eq, time alignment and driver level matching.
Jai
I am going to be making a three way speaker with drivers I already have (all 8ohm unfortunately) and need power amps. Buying an amp9 and a minidsp would let me run my current two way speakers with an active crossover to learn/experiment with. As my budget increases I could build a second amp9 and buy another minidsp to run the three ways active (with the amp9 in three channel configuration).
It would be a nice 'modular' way to get to my target: three way speakers and dual subs with two minidsp units doing crossovers, room eq, time alignment and driver level matching.
Jai
Jaistanley
No, it is not bridging. According to the folks on the 41Hz forum, this would be to "parallel" the channels, allowing greater current, but only be of benefit when your speaker impedance drops, i.e. not your 8ohm drivers it seems. Apparently paralleling the third channels would be "great for the subs" on my active 3/4-way open baffle. To quote somebody better informed than myself;
"It is more accurately described as "Paralleling outputs".
You are not increasing the voltage to your speakers.
Rather you are increasing the current available to drive the speakers.
In this case, the only way to get more output is to use lower impedance speakers, or double up the number of speakers or voice coils per output.
As per the website:
# Outputs can be paralelled for even higher outputs into very low impedance loads"
No, it is not bridging. According to the folks on the 41Hz forum, this would be to "parallel" the channels, allowing greater current, but only be of benefit when your speaker impedance drops, i.e. not your 8ohm drivers it seems. Apparently paralleling the third channels would be "great for the subs" on my active 3/4-way open baffle. To quote somebody better informed than myself;
"It is more accurately described as "Paralleling outputs".
You are not increasing the voltage to your speakers.
Rather you are increasing the current available to drive the speakers.
In this case, the only way to get more output is to use lower impedance speakers, or double up the number of speakers or voice coils per output.
As per the website:
# Outputs can be paralelled for even higher outputs into very low impedance loads"
Driver Level Matching
I'm only a beginner at all of this but I have read opinions the using the DSP for level matching may not be the way to go MiniDSP see post 86 if your interested. I'd be interested to know your thoughts on that.
I'm only a beginner at all of this but I have read opinions the using the DSP for level matching may not be the way to go MiniDSP see post 86 if your interested. I'd be interested to know your thoughts on that.
That's interesting, thanks for giving me that link..
I shall be wiring all of my power amps with alps passive pots to attenuate the signal so relative level matching can be done with these. I now need to get my head around whether I need a pre-amp, buffer and whether I need to, or can use balanced I/O's.
Because of the complexity of multichannel I am thinking more and more about (in the LONG term) throwing away my Denon AVR and building a 'source selecting, dsp with pre-amp'.
It would be a box that has various analogue inputs that are switchable, various digital inputs (Optical, SPDIF, USB) that are switchable. Both of these signals would go to the minidsp's which can source select between analogue and digi. The output of these would then go to a pre-amp and volume control. Then into my power amp stages. If I could find a way of remote controlling all of the above more's the better. I suppose there is even scope for using a processor for surround sound use and volume control of that but we're now talking 12 channels of volume control/pre-am at once! Phew. All this and I have VERY little knowledge of electronics.
I think I'll go back to glueing and cutting bits of MDF and screwing speakers into them.......
Jai
I shall be wiring all of my power amps with alps passive pots to attenuate the signal so relative level matching can be done with these. I now need to get my head around whether I need a pre-amp, buffer and whether I need to, or can use balanced I/O's.
Because of the complexity of multichannel I am thinking more and more about (in the LONG term) throwing away my Denon AVR and building a 'source selecting, dsp with pre-amp'.
It would be a box that has various analogue inputs that are switchable, various digital inputs (Optical, SPDIF, USB) that are switchable. Both of these signals would go to the minidsp's which can source select between analogue and digi. The output of these would then go to a pre-amp and volume control. Then into my power amp stages. If I could find a way of remote controlling all of the above more's the better. I suppose there is even scope for using a processor for surround sound use and volume control of that but we're now talking 12 channels of volume control/pre-am at once! Phew. All this and I have VERY little knowledge of electronics.
I think I'll go back to glueing and cutting bits of MDF and screwing speakers into them.......
Jai
Jai,
I dont know what type of source you will be using? With one or two Lynx cards you could use a Pc to do the Preamp job. My Conrad Johnson PFR was not a match for Lynx Two-B sound quality wise. Its more hassle with Pc, but the possibilities are endless.
I dont know what type of source you will be using? With one or two Lynx cards you could use a Pc to do the Preamp job. My Conrad Johnson PFR was not a match for Lynx Two-B sound quality wise. Its more hassle with Pc, but the possibilities are endless.
Any word on the Connexelectronics amp mentioned above? I emailed the company but got no answer. I am wondering how it would compare to the 41Hz amp9. Is it three or four channels? What chips does it use?
Lurer:
I have been thinking about your suggestion:
I have been thinking about buildnig a PC in a hifi case as a source anyway. Is it actually a reasonable idea to have high quality sound cards such as the Lynx, and do all of my crossover and pre-amp duties in one box?
With the right stuff could I effectively build a processor/pre amp from a PC and would it actually sound good? Could it be configured to start up very quickly, and effectively be seamless in the same way as a pre amp is? (ie press a button, wait a little while for the system to start up, hit play and be listening to music - or to switch the tele, digi-box and pre-amp on and be watching tv (computer as pre-amp not DVR)).
I am temtpted but I can imagine it being too fiddly for 'er indoors to get to grips with!
Jai
I have been thinking about your suggestion:
I have been thinking about buildnig a PC in a hifi case as a source anyway. Is it actually a reasonable idea to have high quality sound cards such as the Lynx, and do all of my crossover and pre-amp duties in one box?
With the right stuff could I effectively build a processor/pre amp from a PC and would it actually sound good? Could it be configured to start up very quickly, and effectively be seamless in the same way as a pre amp is? (ie press a button, wait a little while for the system to start up, hit play and be listening to music - or to switch the tele, digi-box and pre-amp on and be watching tv (computer as pre-amp not DVR)).
I am temtpted but I can imagine it being too fiddly for 'er indoors to get to grips with!
Jai
At www.coldamp.com we can offer an interesting solution based on 1 Sonora Combo 2S300 plus 1 Sonora S250 module.
The S250 would be for the woofer, and is fed by the Combo. The Combo channels would be for mids and highs. No need for an additional power supply for the levels you are aiming, as the integrated PSU is able of >500W total. All the amplifiers and power supply would be synchronized for best audio quality.
This combination is also very adequate for 2.1 systems up to 250W (subwoofer) + 125W/ch (mids&highs)
For additional information please write to info@coldamp.com.
You would need an active crossover in front of the amplifier channels, of course.
Regards,
Sergio
The S250 would be for the woofer, and is fed by the Combo. The Combo channels would be for mids and highs. No need for an additional power supply for the levels you are aiming, as the integrated PSU is able of >500W total. All the amplifiers and power supply would be synchronized for best audio quality.
This combination is also very adequate for 2.1 systems up to 250W (subwoofer) + 125W/ch (mids&highs)
For additional information please write to info@coldamp.com.
You would need an active crossover in front of the amplifier channels, of course.
Regards,
Sergio
Hi,
I don't think you can get it that smooth in operation. I have configured the machine so it logs on to windows automatically. I use J River Media Center and can play right after the PC is booted, you just need to check that volume is not at max. Mine is at max at default when i use Output 1 and 2. If Windows is configured as it should, then the windows volume control will not be used. The volume control in the Lynx Mixer is where you adjust volume, and you need a remote control or use shortcut commands in Windows to operate it most effectively. Adjusting it manually with the mouse is possible but its easy to push the volume to max by accident.
Also if you got wife or gf who wishes to use the system it would be more difficult. Years of practice before it runs smoothly 😉
Maybe even a Mac Mini would suit you better? The software embedded in the system has a Mac equivalent to ASIO drivers installed and in use as default, and also software for playing music is optimal for hifi reproduction with default settings as far as i know. I think the latest versions even got a built in Crossover/DSP if im not mistaken.
I was presented a Mac Mini before i bought my Pc and it looked really good. I just like Pc better.
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